A/C system - how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator, expansion valve (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Do you think there is any chance to remove the bottom half of the evaporator housing without opening the whole system? It looks like 2 screws and 3 spring clips holding it together, but the back screw and clip look like a PITA to get to. My AC still blows cold, but I would like to get in there to clean out some mouse debris that I know is there...
 
nope.... I dont think that you can open the unit enough to fully clean it without pulling the box
 
I wonder if you were to remove some of the components on the side of the unit, like the resistor and one other square looking thing with four screws, if that would allow just enough access to stick a vacuum hose in there? I think someone just did this recently and had a decent amount of success.
 
I wonder if you were to remove some of the components on the side of the unit, like the resistor and one other square looking thing with four screws, if that would allow just enough access to stick a vacuum hose in there? I think someone just did this recently and had a decent amount of success.

That was me. I was able to remove the blower motor resistor (I think that's what it was) and the blower motor. After that, I was able to get a vacuum hose in by the evaporator and sucked out a bunch of junk. I posted pictures and more details in Ali's other AC thread.
 
Removal of the cooling unit is about half hour, ten minutes to take it apart and extract the evap, then another half hour to put it back together and inside the vehicle, 45 min for evac and recharge.
 
Wow! Not long at all, my ac guy said he'd have to take all the dash a part? Mine's a right hand drive, but looks like the mirror version of the left. Hmmmm.

He's quoting you book rate is my guess, not the actual time it'd take to do the job. That's where the money is made, he can do yours in half the time, then do another vehicle. :frown: Granted, he may not do this particular vehicle model on a daily basis but still...
 
Some pics of the manifold gauge set hookup and the Robinair vacuum.

Your gauge set looks similar to mine. Do you have the vacuum pump connected to the same line that you connect the R134a can to? The instructions for my gauges do not describe how to connect a vacuum pump, only that you connect a refrigerant can to the yellow line. I've never evacuated a system myself before, so I'm trying to figure out how to plumb the lines.

Thanks,
Chris
 
Your gauge set looks similar to mine. Do you have the vacuum pump connected to the same line that you connect the R134a can to? The instructions for my gauges do not describe how to connect a vacuum pump, only that you connect a refrigerant can to the yellow line. I've never evacuated a system myself before, so I'm trying to figure out how to plumb the lines.

Thanks,
Chris



Yes, after you're done evacuating the system, close the valves (obviously), remove the vacuum pump from the end of the yellow hose, then plug in the 12 oz can of R134a. Next, puncture the can, bleed the air out of the yellow line by cracking the fitting at the manifold gauge a little bit. My gauge set has a schrader valve that is used to bleed the yellow line of any air but you can crack the fittings and achieve the same thing.

HTH.
 
Great write up. I'm curious as to why you used nitrogen when you were going to replace the drier and vacuum the system anyway. Also, you were successful in finding your leaks, but sometimes you need more psi to find leaks, say at least 100 psi. Those pesky schrader valves can seal at 40psi, but leak at 100. Good job! AC work is easy.
 
Great write up. I'm curious as to why you used nitrogen when you were going to replace the drier and vacuum the system anyway. Also, you were successful in finding your leaks, but sometimes you need more psi to find leaks, say at least 100 psi. Those pesky schrader valves can seal at 40psi, but leak at 100. Good job! AC work is easy.

My system had no leaks to begin with but since I'm a newbie extreme, I figured using Nitrogen after replacing the Exp valve and the Dryer will keep the moisture intrusion to a min.

Thanks for the heads up on using 100 psi, now that I know that, I'll use that psi on the Low side to check for leaks.

"Those pesky Schrader valve can leak at 100 psi" - are you referring to the valve core of the A/C compressor or the one I used in my hose contraption?

Thanks again for the education, you have been valuable in our quest to learn more about the A/C system. :cheers:
 
Last edited:
Yes, after you're done evacuating the system, close the valves (obviously), remove the vacuum pump from the end of the yellow hose, then plug in the 12 oz can of R134a. Next, puncture the can, bleed the air out of the yellow line by cracking the fitting at the manifold gauge a little bit. My gauge set has a schrader valve that is used to bleed the yellow line of any air but you can crack the fittings and achieve the same thing.

HTH.

I guess I need a better gauge set. Mine doesn't have any indication on the gauge for vacuum, only for pressure (psi). I tried hooking up my vacuum pump regardless, but I either have a large hole or the gauge just isn't letting it pull vacuum correctly, because even after 10 minutes, there was very little vacuum in the system.

BTW, thank you so much for this thread. It probably saved me an hour of hunting around for all the screws and studs to get the cooling box out. And cutting the gaskets to reuse them was brilliant.

-Chris
 
alia176: I have a couple of small questions. Any pointers on getting the drain hose hooked back up properly? Seems like it is a blind procedure when putting the box back in? Is there a nipple that sticks out into the engine bay for the drain? Could you pop the drain line off from the engine bay side before removing the box?? Also, if the foam is damaged or deteriorated, what might be a good replacement, some generic AC/window foam strips from Lowes?
 
alia176: I have a couple of small questions. Any pointers on getting the drain hose hooked back up properly? Seems like it is a blind procedure when putting the box back in? Is there a nipple that sticks out into the engine bay for the drain? Could you pop the drain line off from the engine bay side before removing the box?? Also, if the foam is damaged or deteriorated, what might be a good replacement, some generic AC/window foam strips from Lowes?

The drain hose is very short and I'm afraid no nipple sticks into the engine bay. If you've installed the cooling unit w/o the drain hose, don't worry, you can still reinstall it. What would help is to peel the carpet and the foam padding away enough so that you can manipulate the drain hose back on the plastic nipple. I've had to do this couple of times. The hose very supple so you can do this w/o too much stress.

Not sure on the foam question but your logic sounds good. Find a suitable replacement from Lowe's and see if it'll work. Honestly, if it's not a perfect seal, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
 
For the foam you might try using the adhesive backed stuff they use between pickup truck caps and the edge of the bed. I found some at Home Depot.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom