Builds '88 4runner (ntsqd) (2 Viewers)

[pappy]

OK, those seats are sweet.

 

[ntsqd]

The guy did a nice job on them for sure.

In other news I've concluded that stories of how difficult a first gen IFS front diff is to R&R are grossly understated. And now because of where the ARB fitting was placed I get to drop it partway back out to dimple the oil pan for a little more clearance. Yea! NOT.

 

[ntsqd]

Got the front diff installed (& oil pan appropriately dimpled). MISF thinks he *might* be able to get a dollar bill between the vent fitting and the oil pan, but I know its an optical illusion, can get many of them between. Vent hose now reaches the top of the battery plus some. Final placement etc. YTBD. ARB line is -3AN braided SS hose from the top of the diff to the frame near the idler arm bolts. I'll take some pics once that end of the hose is bolted down.

Started putting all the rest back together with the new ball-joints & 4crawler spacers. Yikes but there's a fair amount to cut out of those upper arms! Debating pulling them off to do it. How did others do this job?

 

[ntsqd]

Decided to wait on the spacers and just put it back together. I'll drive it for a bit and then when the front Bils 7100's get here I'll remove the upper arms for both spacer and potential damper clearance mods. I ordered new tie rod assemblies, but realized that the idler arm did have play in it after all. I had checked it with the center-link in place and it felt fine. With the center-link removed some play showed up, so I have a 4Crawler idler on the way. Figured that I might as well replace the pitman arm too, so ordered one of those. Have pondered having Lee PS rebuild the steering box. I think that I'll drive it for a while, see what, if any, idiosyncrasies it might have first.

I'll take some pics, because I know yer all pic hores, once the ARB plumbing is a little more finalized. Not much different from stock to see right now.

 

[ntsqd]

Poll:
1) Red Coolant
2) Green Coolant
?

Has green now, evidence of having had the HG's done.

 

[pappy]

Green.

 

[Mudder]

Green, you really don't need to only buy Toyota coolant. Plus I look at it this way, what's easiest to find in a small podunk town?

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

Brown is not an option?

 

[ntsqd]

I should've reminded that this is a 3.0L V6, in case that makes any difference.

 

[txlonghorn]

Run whatever was already in there. Sounds like green is the answer. They do not mix well.

 

[ntsqd]

Green it is then.

Got all of the steering bits and all 4 ball joints installed & greased. New brake hoses are on, it's almost ready to be set back on the fronts so that I can R&R the rear diff. Need to set the toe-in once it's got weight on it. Feels like the steering box needs to go to Lee Mfg as the pitman shaft has a little play in it. I want to drive it badly enough that I'll wait on the box rebuild until I pull it down for the UCA mods (spacer & Bils 7100's)

 

[ntsqd]

So what is the market for a used V6 4 pinion 4.11 geared drop-out? 4.56/ARB goes in today, hope to be doing the break-in next week.

EDIT: I guess not much. I'll put it in the metal recycle bin at work.

 

[ntsqd]

Started on the gearing break-in. Been playing around with where to put the pneumatic toggle switches. These are they:

Norgren - 03040302 - 0 to +70C Zinc Alloy 1/8 in G G 1/8 Black Toggle Pneumatic Manual Control Valve - Allied Electronics
I'll be running 1/8" nylon DOT air brake tube to push-to-connect (aka "poke-n-hope") fittings like these: McMaster-Carr on the frame to operate the ARB's. The jump from the frame to the diffs is handled by -3AN braided SS brake hose and related fittings. All pneumatic, no wiring, no relays. OBA from a Puma compressor & tank will be regulated down to ARB operating pressure.

I've got the Puma compressor & tank, but have not mounted it yet. Thinking to split them up, put the compressor on the frame rail next to the muffler and place the tank cross ways above and slightly behind the axle. I have not test fit them yet, so those locations subject to change.

 

[ntsqd]

Has anyone converted from an auto trans dash (has stoopid trans mode lights in place of the voltmeter) to a manual trans dash (has voltmeter)? Wondering if it is plug-n-play or if some moving around of wires will have to happen.

 

[GeoRoss]

If you swap out an automatic gauge cluster for one from a manual to get the voltmeter you will need to swap some of the pins around. It is pretty simple if you have access to the EWD. If you don't I can send you the relevant info.

 

[ntsqd]

"EWD"? I have the FSM if that helps. Figured to ask before wading into it, thinking someone's been there before me - might narrow my focus some.

 

[GeoRoss]

Electrical wiring diagram. I can't remember if the FSM has the pinouts. I'll look for my notes and scan the pertinent pages if you need them.

 

[ntsqd]

Holiday, haven't had a chance to crack open the FSM and likely won't until next week. If you could do that and it isn't a bother to do so I'd really appreciate it!

 

[GeoRoss]

Ill

Holiday, haven't had a chance to crack open the FSM and likely won't until next week. If you could do that and it isn't a bother to do so I'd really appreciate it!

I'll get it to you this weekend.

 

[GeoRoss]

Sorry for the delay, the scanner at home didn't want to talk to the computer. I forgot to take the FSM and EWD into work, so I took pictures. I also included my notes. Let me know if these work. There really are only 4 changes.