Builds '88 4runner (ntsqd) (2 Viewers)

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ntsqd

technerd
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Threads
90
Messages
6,855
Location
Upper So. CA
Realized a couple of things, I should have kept the FJ60 and finished it as we need something with a viable back seat. However, it would have been pretty heavy to flat tow as a "tow'd" behind our CTD/Camper. I could have gotten rear coil springs & 4 doors with a second gen, but I like the first gen body much, much better.

After almost 20 years, Patch ('84 Xcab seen in background) is ready for it's next phase - and that isn't with us.
Selling Patch and bought this:
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SR5 with an Auto trans? Hum. Has manual windows and vent-wing windows. Unusual in a truck that has nearly every other option. One missing option is a sunroof, and I'm glad of that! A/C blows cold, but I need to look into why the temp selector moves so stiff.

As best as I can tell we're the 4th owners. First was Mr. Meticulous. Second was a hack, but fortunately didn't have it long enough to do a lot of damage (more on that later). Third wanted to export it only to find out that the country he was going to doesn't take vehicles more than 10 years old. Or so he said. He was into detailing engines, the engine bay looks nearly showroom clean. At least on the top. The under carriage has a fair amount of grime on it.

Plan is some DD use, as a "tow'd" when we need a runabout while on a trip (like last weekend in Lone Pine), and occasional light duty trails trip use. Currently 4.10's and 31's, 3.0L & Auto. Thinking to keep the auto for now and maybe forever, selectable rear locker, possible front selectable locker, 4.56's, and 33-10.50's or 235/85R16's. Already have a set of OME rear springs for it (thanks, Kurt!), and some of Roger Brown's BJ spacers. Planning to shim the rear springs at the center pins ala GM 63's to see if that will further increase their suppleness.
I would prefer to keep the OE alloys as I like them (need to find one for the spare), but 33-10.50 availability isn't nearly as good as it used to be. As soon as I figure out what will fit in front (F-250 upper mounts?) I'll order two pairs of remote reservoir 7100's and dump those RS5000's. Seats feel all of their ~242K miles and badly need to be rebuilt. I'll send those out when I pull it apart to put the springs & spacers in.

Need an FSM covering it and hopefully Mr. T can sell me an Owner's Manual too. It has some switches that Patch doesn't and I've no clue what they do.

"Mr. Hack" cranked the t-bars and cut the bump-stop landing pads on the frame at the rear to insert some coil-over coil springs (which is why no 4rnnr saggy butt in these pics). Whom ever thought that was a good idea and posted a page on doing it should be shot. He also butchered the lower dash area to fit in that cb. I need to find some decent of those parts to fix it. And that cb antenna mount is a joke, two #6 sheet metal screws holding a piece of Strong-Tie sheet metal in place - its already gone.
I'll cut the rest of the bump-stop pads off and install a set of the Nissan bumps. Those work awesome under the rear of Patch, I know they hit but I've never ever felt them.
 
Immediate needs: Lower dash fascia and inner part (has the cubby and holds the stereo - at least it does in Patch). FSM and Owner's Manual. Any clue where to find these aside from scouring the classifieds?
Front bash pan is missing, thinking to get a Budbuilt skiddy for there. Comments or suggestions?

Has anyone done an IFS upper shock mount for an eyeleted shock that wasn't doing some sort of long travel? I'm fairly up on SA stuff, but IFS stuff is mostly new to me. Most IFS trucks that I've been exposed to were Total Chaos Long Travel parts and I do NOT want this truck to look like that. Subtle and unexpectedly capable is the game plan.
 
I might have a lower dash bezel, I'll look. You want gray or black? Not sure what you mean about "inner part". There are supposed to be a couple of metal plates with ears that hold the radio, are they missing?

I think I have an extra '87 glovebox manual.

Best place to find this stuff is eBay.
 
The existing bezel is gray (gray/blue?) so that would be my preference. On my '84 when you remove the bezel there is a hard plastic part still screwed to the dash structure that has a cubby hole molded into it at the bottom of the bezel's opening. The lower 1/2 of a double DIN opening if you will. This part is black in the '84. Not sure what the '88's config should be, there are enough other subtle differences between the '84 and '88 dashes that I don't think that I can use the '84's dash as an example of exactly how it should be - just a general idea of what it should be.

PM me with details on the owner's manual and the pedal assembly if you're still interested in selling it too.

I'll run some searches on ebay.

Thanks!
 
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Found this in my stash:

IMAG0874.jpg


The 87 owners manual is missing the cover. Yes I still have the pedals.
 
So.... FSM's. Can't find any for '88. Mr. T doesn't carry them for the older vehicles any more, referred me to an online source called "Technical Information Services", only they only go back to 1990 with spotty earlier offerings. Have to spend $15 to join their 'club' or whatever just to see if they have a listing for anything earlier. Helm lists only vol. 1 of 2 and the wiring diagram for an '89. That's probably close enough in vintage, but what's in vol. 1 vs vol. 2? Oddly in the picture of the cover on the Helm page I don't see anything about more than one volume. Used manual only on ebay for $150 or new manual and wiring diagram for $175 (shipped)? That was easy. Guess I'll find out if there is a vol. 2 and what vol 1 doesn't cover, if anything.
 
This is what you want:

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Keep an eye on eBay, they pop up there occasionally. Very useful, especially the Electrical manual.

Your stuff shipped today, BTW. I'll PM you a photo of the receipt with the tracking info.
 
I've got the '89 manuals coming. Hopefully they aren't too different from the '88. If they are I'll resume the search.

Thanks!!
 
I bought OME rear springs from Kurt after removing the #%$$^%&#@~@$ "Zuk Mod" butchery. What a dumb, dumb, dumb idea! The springs aren't installed yet as I'm trying to focus on getting the new engine into another project and that car up and driving so that I can go to work and stuff.

On my'84 Xcab I had converted the rear to GM 63's and I can not say enough good about that swap. The problem here is that those are more lift than I want for this truck. In working with the 63's I noticed something that at the time I had not seen in any other leaf spring. Shims between the leaves at the center bolt. They along with the tip sliders introduce an air gap between each pair of leaves. I've since seen aftermarket springs made for Early Broncos with these shims, but only from one vendor.

When I put Bils 7100's with the std 255/70 leaf spring valving on the truck it wasn't enough damping, I had to go to the 275/78 shim-stacks in the dampers. Hum, put two and two together. Less internal spring friction = more damping required = better ride due to a more compliant spring?
Am thinking to make and insert some similar shims for the OME springs before they go on the truck. Can't hurt and it should make a noticeable difference as they also have tip sliders.
 
This is what you want:

View attachment 1268824

Keep an eye on eBay, they pop up there occasionally. Very useful, especially the Electrical manual.

Your stuff shipped today, BTW. I'll PM you a photo of the receipt with the tracking info.

One just popped up on ebay and I grabbed it. Thanks for the pointer.

T/O bearing setting issues with my other project, so this keeps getting pushed back. I *think* that I now have the pieces that I know are in need of replacement. As soon as the other project is operational I can pull the seats to get them rebuilt and start on the suspension. Have a Sept 4th trip that I need this truck for (going to drive from the lowest point in CA to the highest drivable point in CA in one day), so things gotta start happening soon.

Advice on putting an ARB in the front when I have it re-geared to 4.56? I'm hesitating because it's such a small front diff. Seems like adding a locker of any sort is asking to break it, yet this isn't a rock crawler. The times that I think that I'd need it may not be all that often. The downside is that I can't buy a re-geared front with an open diff. At least not from Marlin. Not sure who else to trust. If no ARB in front then my local shop, who is excellent, can re-gear it, but I'm tempted to buy the ARB rear assembled from Marlin regardless of what I do up front.
 
So.... FSM's. Can't find any for '88. Mr. T doesn't carry them for the older vehicles any more, referred me to an online source called "Technical Information Services", only they only go back to 1990 with spotty earlier offerings. Have to spend $15 to join their 'club' or whatever just to see if they have a listing for anything earlier. Helm lists only vol. 1 of 2 and the wiring diagram for an '89. That's probably close enough in vintage, but what's in vol. 1 vs vol. 2? Oddly in the picture of the cover on the Helm page I don't see anything about more than one volume. Used manual only on ebay for $150 or new manual and wiring diagram for $175 (shipped)? That was easy. Guess I'll find out if there is a vol. 2 and what vol 1 doesn't cover, if anything.

I don't have a link, but I used wayback machine to find old links to PDFs versions of the FSM's that were later taken down.
 
Started on the spring shims yesterday. Originally planned on 3 per spring, but noticed during the install that the second leaf, being a military wrap leaf, didn't have tip sliders and that the 4th leaf only has a tip slider at the front.Debated it for while and decided not to install a shim btwn the main and second leaf, but to install one btwn the 3rd and 4th even though there's only one tip slider there. I gave each shim top a significant radius so that there won't be a sharp edge that the leaf above is bending down on. Got the shims installed and discovered that the springs are marked differently adjacent to the forward arrow. One has an "I" on it and the other has something that looks a bit like "[ ]" So far I've found nothing to indicate why the different marks. Have yet to find any sort of install instructions on either web page.
 
Can you post some pictures? I can compare them to my OME springs and may be able to tell you.
 
Simple trip to get some fuses for the headlight relay upgrade turned into a Honeydo trip....

First Spring:
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Second Spring:
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Air Gap shims:
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Thanks for that! Guess I shoulda looked there too since I bought these springs from Kurt. As it happens where I set them down next to the truck is how they should be installed.
 
Had to pop an upper BJ loose to get the front diff out so I unbolted it from the upper thinking that I'd install the spacers when I put it back together. The body spins freely on the pin! Much like a bearing and not at all like a good ball-joint. So, going to do all of the BJ's while I'm in there. I want quality and life-span in rough service over price. Suggested brands & vendors for these parts? Kurt, is this something you carry but don't list online? It also needs brake hoses and for a change I think I'm going to stay with OEM rubber type instead of making them with -3AN stuff.
 
Working my way thru planning the plumbing for the ARB's and realized that a simple method to actuate them would be to convert them to hyd. and use a locking "master cylinder" ala how the locking diffs on some G-wagens work. Or a single "master cylinder" with a pair of ball valves. Could probably even use gear lube as the working fluid so cross-contamination wouldn't be a problem, unlike the G-Wagen's brake fluid. Interesting to ponder though I'm not going to pursue it.

5mm tube and 5mm "Poke-n-Hope" fittings don't seem to be all that common in the U.S., so I'm converting to 5/32" tube & poke-n-hope's with -3 AN/JIC hose/hose-ends where exposed to road hazards. The bulkhead fittings at the diff are an odd (proprietary?) design where the tubulation comes up from the bottom thru a small hole into the bulkhead where an o-ring fits down over it. Then the 3/8 UNF top fitting screws down into the bulkhead and squishes the o-ring to seal the tubulation to the fittings. The top of the top fitting is 5mm compression with an internal tubing support tube. As it happens the compression fitting nut threads are also 3/8 UNF so a -3 AN/JIC hose end will thread right on, but asking for a seal between the hose end and the tiny support tube that is part of that upper fitting would be folly. Instead I'll drill part way thru a -3AN/JIC X 3/16 Inverted Flare adapter fitting (to clear the tubulation) to squish the o-ring sealing the tubulation and then I can use any one of the various -3AN/JIC hose-hose end designs for the lower, exposed to brush/rocks/stuff part of the air line.
I'm still working how to make the connection at the top of the -3AN/JIC hose, but I'm thinking to use a -3AN/JIC X M10 brake bulkhead fitting (so that I can use a tab to anchor that end to the chassis) with some sort of adapter to screw the poke-n-hope fitting to. Current contending idea is to drill and tap an M10 Inverted Flare plug for the 10-32 end of a 5/32" poke-n-hope adapter fitting.
 
Front seats are back from the upholstery shop. I had the shop use the same Dacron tweed fabric that the off-road racing suspension seats use for their upholstery. One week turn-around! Both previous shops that I'd tried were months to get the work done.

Just getting them home:
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Close-up of the fabric:
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