88 4Runner 22re to 22r swap advise (1 Viewer)

[Jollywood]

Got a 4Runner with bad timing assembly and broken bolts in timing cover. Found a 1986 22r motor for $150. Wondering about swapping in the older carb'ed motor and what's involved with the fuel delivery system, wiring and such. Haven't found a good thread yet. Thanks y'all

 

[KLF]

As I understand it, there is no difference in the block or head from the carb'd to the EFI engines. Cam is different. EFI intake should bolt right on.

I put a carb'd block & head in my '85 4Runner (EFI) back in the 90's, no problem. Then I put the '85 block & head into a carb'd '87 pickup at some point, also no issues.

 

[Mudder]

I even used an earlier 22r block and put EFI stuff on it. I'd go for it but keep the EFI, there's a debate about the cams being different. Engnbldr says he couldn't see a difference.

 

[ferg]

Keep the EFI. While it may be a more difficult field fix it will certainly be more reliable in the long run.

 

[KLF]

It was Tim at DOA that told me the cams were different. He also told me that all 86+ blocks and heads are identical, and I think there's a Tech Doc over on LC Engineering that says the same thing.

Perhaps I mis-read the original post, I concur that if the decision is to also convert from EFI 22RE to carb'd 22R, yeah I would stick with the EFI, just bolt the intake to the other engine. You will need a different tank, and it will be a pain to adapt the mechanical pump to the EFI fuel line. You can't use the EFI in-tank pump, ~60 psi will overload the little float valve in the carb.

 

[Jollywood]

I'm going to try the "fix the one I got" route for now. If I can't, then I'll make that decision later. It seems likens much work to swap the motor , fuel pickup, wiring gremlins, etc than to pull this motor out and get at the timing assembly. I may destroy the cover getting it off though, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it

 

[Mudder]

So I'm confused? Are you starting with a 22r or 22re? If a 22re you don't have to do any wiring other than pull the old motor and put the replacement one in.

 

[Jollywood]

Sorry, yes that is confusing. I'm starting with 22re

 

[ferg]

You shouldn't need to pull the engine to do the timing cover, chain and broken bolts. Pull the radiator and work from there.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Can definitely be done with engine in the truck. You might need a new timing cover.

 

[Jollywood]

I guess I'll try it with the rad out. Just to be clear though, a timing cover bolt is broken off meaning I cannot remove the cover. Does this bolt have a smooth shank (no threads) going though the cover thus can be pried off of? Also, there is plastic chain guide material in the oil pan to remove. How difficult is it to drop the suspension down a couple of inches to give clearance for the pan?

 

[Jollywood]

These are the two bolts

 

[ferg]

The one on the left(middle finger) looks to be a pass through type. The one on the right(index finger) looks to be either a stud or threaded into the cover.

Do you have a FSM? Would be very helpful. I think there is a link around here someplace for FSMs.

 

[Jeremy9A]

The left bolt passes through to timing cover to the block with a 12MM head. The one on the right just holds the water pump to the timing cover with a 10MM.
Is it just the end of the bolt that broke off? If so, pull the timing cover and you will have plenty of bolt sticking out to work with.

To pull the cover, you will need to pull the oil pan or the cylinder head to do get it to seal correctly. (it's been done without pulling pan/head but it just makes life easier)

If the cover is trashed, there are new ones pretty cheap on amazon/ebay.

 

[Jollywood]

Just the end of the bolts broke off. I drilled the left one a little to try an ez out with no luck

 

[Mudder]

Don't bother with an easy out until you've got the cover off. Being a water pump passage the bolts are corroded, have you gotten all the other bolts out and double checked for the hidden one on the back of the cover?

 

[KLF]

Don't forget the bolt in the top that is usually sitting hiding in a puddle of oil.

It's going to be hard to get that cover of without wrecking the head gasket, it has to come straight out for the entire length of that broken bolt.

You can drop the pan with the engine in, I find the best way is to unbolt the engine mounts and lift the engine up as far as it will go.

 

[Jeremy9A]

Don't forget the bolt in the top that is usually sitting hiding in a puddle of oil.

Yes definitely don't forget that bolt!

If you're not familiar with it- You access it from the top of the cylinder head.
1 Pull the valve cover
2 pull the distributor (on a carb'd motor you would need to pull the fuel pump lobe off the front of the cam gear but that shouldn't apply to you)
3 In the very front of the cylinder head there is a bolt with a 12mm head most likely buried in a pool of oil that you can't see. It is the only bolt that goes vertically into the top of the timing cover.

There are 4 (i think) vertical bolts that go from oil pan to bottom of the timing cover FYI.

 

[pappy]

When putting that hidden bolt back in pay attention to the torque spec. I seem to recall it's lighter than the rest.

 

[Jollywood]

The infamous hidden bolt is missing. I guess the PO didn't put it back in when the timing was done last