85 22RE Fuel gauge not working (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 12, 2006
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81
Location
Madison, Ms
hey guys, this might be a stupid question... is there a fuel float in the 85' 4Runner 22RE tanks? My gas gauge is not working at all... I've tried a couple different gauge clusters and I'm pretty sure the gauges are fine. I've never dropped the tank on an older 4Runner, so I'm not familiar w/ the set up. Thanks
 
There's a cover under the rear seat to get to the fuel pump, but I think the sender is not accessible from there.... check the 85 FSM linked in the FAQ thread, and see where the system grounds, my guess is the power goes through the gauge on the dash, down to the sender, and then the system grounds somewhere either close to the sender, or some place stupid like behind the left headlight... So see where the FSM says it grounds and check that out.

Have you had any other strange electric problems?
 
I haven't pulled the fuel pump myself but my mechanic changed mine a few months ago and got the fuel gauge unstuck at the same time. He did not drop the tank and did everything via the access hole under the rear seat. Again, I was out of the country or I would have done it myself so I can't personally add any further info about the fuel gauge sender but I would start by checking the FSM diagrams.
 
EFITank.jpg


I stole this pic off pirate... I'm familiar w/ the access panel. I've actually done a 3RZ swap on this truck, so I had to mess w/ the fuel lines, and when I did, I ended up breaking the hardline on the fuel pump hanger. I had to replace the hanger and the pump at the same time. At that time, however, my fuel gauge still worked. It just went out all of a sudden a couple weeks ago when I was test driving the 4Runner. It appears the EFI tanks have a rear mounted float of some sort... Hmmm I suck at reading the FSM(I used and ORS harness on my swap, so it was easy ha). I'll see what I can figure out.
 
Mine hasn't worked correctly for years. I use my odometer, usually fill up every 250 miles or so. Pretty sure it's the float in the tank, which is why I'm in no hurry to fix it.
 
Mine will swing up to the F mark when I fill up, but it's on E by about 200 miles. If I fill up then, I only get about 10 gals in, so now I go a little bit longer.
 
I have exactly that year and problem, did you have to remove the tank to get to the sender?

You are gonna have to drop the tank... damn shame Toyota didn't either a.) put the sender next to the fuel pump or b.) make another access panel. I hate dropping gas tanks :(. I haven't had time to drop mine yet, plus I simply don't have any extra money to put into this project right now. Been laid off twice this summer, I'm back in school and I don't start my part time job til next week, or possibly the next week. The next 2 yrs are gonna be stressful :bang:. Luckily my tank only has about 5 or 6 gallons in it right now, so in the next week or so when I can drop it, it won't be too bad. I will post results.
 
Here's what I do when I have to drop the tank (this only works for EFI vehicles):

Remove the fill cap to relieve any built-up pressure in the tank. Then crack open the high pressure side where it attaches to the hard line at the frame. Take the hose, put it in a large 5-gal drywall bucket, then jumper the +B and Fp contacts in the Diagnostic connector. Then turn the key to ON. This will force the in-tank fuel pump to run, pumping the gas out of the tank and into the bucket. You might need 2 or 3 buckets, just pop a lid on as each one gets full and set it outside in a safe place to it doesn't stink up the garage.

I did this again a couple of weekends ago with my daughter's Corolla, didn't spill a drop of gas.
 
I was planning on raising my tank a bit anyway so I will wait till I get a new sender and do it then. Thankfully mine is a Texas truck and there is no rust, hope that makes it easier to remove. Looking forward to seeing your results.
 
Here's what I do when I have to drop the tank (this only works for EFI vehicles):

Remove the fill cap to relieve any built-up pressure in the tank. Then crack open the high pressure side where it attaches to the hard line at the frame. Take the hose, put it in a large 5-gal drywall bucket, then jumper the +B and Fp contacts in the Diagnostic connector. Then turn the key to ON. This will force the in-tank fuel pump to run, pumping the gas out of the tank and into the bucket. You might need 2 or 3 buckets, just pop a lid on as each one gets full and set it outside in a safe place to it doesn't stink up the garage.

I did this again a couple of weekends ago with my daughter's Corolla, didn't spill a drop of gas.


Good tip. I've spilled a lot of gas in my garage messing around w/ out of tank fuel pumps and fuel tanks in general. If you do get gas on you, or even in your garage, go buy some barbasol(el cheapo) shaving cream and bathe in, and hose your floor down w/ it. It neutralizes the smell. I'm probably gonna just leave the fuel in it, and lower it down w/ a floor jack w/ it rachet strapped to a piece of plywood. If that doesn't work well, I'll try your trick.
 
I have exactly that year and problem, did you have to remove the tank to get to the sender?
yes you will have to drop the tank. but as long as your light is working i would not worry about it. every one i have dropped about five. the line broke on top of the tank and you have to buy the fuel pump carrier. i only had to buy one i was tring to use a pickup tank in my 4 runner when i converted it to fuel injection. so you do not think i am stupid every junk yard around me said they had one for my 4 runner but they had to punch holes in them. so i ended up buying an 86 with a blown head gasket and a lot of rust for $400.00. your welcome crazy.
 
I figured that I would not worry about it as the light is working but if I am going to move the tank anyway I might as well have a look at it. Anyone have any info on fixing it instead of replacing? I assume that it is just a potentiometer with a worn spot.
 
Here's what I do when I have to drop the tank (this only works for EFI vehicles):

Remove the fill cap to relieve any built-up pressure in the tank. Then crack open the high pressure side where it attaches to the hard line at the frame. Take the hose, put it in a large 5-gal drywall bucket, then jumper the +B and Fp contacts in the Diagnostic connector. Then turn the key to ON. This will force the in-tank fuel pump to run, pumping the gas out of the tank and into the bucket. You might need 2 or 3 buckets, just pop a lid on as each one gets full and set it outside in a safe place to it doesn't stink up the garage.

I did this again a couple of weekends ago with my daughter's Corolla, didn't spill a drop of gas.

I was going to suggest that too, but borrow a couple gas cans instead...:D For another car I made a harness to power the pump in the tank. I could switch control it.
 
I was looking at another '87 4Runner today with a 3" body lift. You can see the sending unit through the wheel well easily. It is about 7-8 inches behind the pump. I think I might just install a 10" - 15" body lift and have easy access to it..... 10 - 15 hockey pucks per mount? :idea:
 
I was looking at another '87 4Runner today with a 3" body lift. You can see the sending unit through the wheel well easily. It is about 7-8 inches behind the pump. I think I might just install a 10" - 15" body lift and have easy access to it..... 10 - 15 hockey pucks per mount? :idea:

Sure... go for it. Just be sure to take video and post it on YouTube, under the "Darwin Awards" section. :)
 

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