My solenoids went out on my 8274. So when I ordered new ones, which are the newer style solenoids with all top posts. When I wired it up nothing happened and I can't figure out how to wire it. Can anyone help me? Its for a 4 pin remote.
8274 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mudder
- Start date
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Look at this:
Also read this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/8274-merging-new-control-to-old-solinoid.474455/
Also read this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/8274-merging-new-control-to-old-solinoid.474455/
- Thread starter
- #3
I was trying to search, but am on the mobile app.
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- #4
The diagram is great and all but how does it help me? I'm wiring a 4 pin remote not a 5 pin. I've tried wiring it that way and all I got was a stuck motor.
I was hoping you would also read the thread I linked to. You are trying to merge two solenoid styles and the wiring is not going to match up exactly.
On your remote:
Black - Power Out
Green - Power In
White - Battery +
If you look closely at the picture I posted you will see that two of the solenoids have a green wire going to them, two have a black wire going to them. What you are doing is energizing the armature and the field at the same time, the power flows in series through both before going back to the battery. To reverse the rotation the second pair of contactors reverses the power flow through the field to reverse the magnetic polarity in the field.
You will need to connect your White wire to the incoming lead from the battery.
You will need to supply a ground for all your new solenoids since they cannot ground the control coil through the solenoid can (Brown wire in above diagram). This could be your issue.
On your remote:
Black - Power Out
Green - Power In
White - Battery +
If you look closely at the picture I posted you will see that two of the solenoids have a green wire going to them, two have a black wire going to them. What you are doing is energizing the armature and the field at the same time, the power flows in series through both before going back to the battery. To reverse the rotation the second pair of contactors reverses the power flow through the field to reverse the magnetic polarity in the field.
You will need to connect your White wire to the incoming lead from the battery.
You will need to supply a ground for all your new solenoids since they cannot ground the control coil through the solenoid can (Brown wire in above diagram). This could be your issue.
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- #6
I actually did read the thread. Wiring is not something I'm great at by any means. And that probably is. I've got a ground on the motor but not one for the solenoids.
- Thread starter
- #8
So I finally got time today to deal with it. Got it up and running but now I have an issue. The older style cover won't work with these solenoids. Does anyone have an idea? If I put the solenoids in backwards it'd work but I'd need something to hold them down.
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- #9
I need some help, finally made my solenoid box got everything transfered in. Followed the diagram to a T. And now my motor is sometimes sticking on and even if I remove the solenoid ground will keep on going. Is this a sign of bad solenoids? The motor was also smoking and you couldn't even touch it because it was so hot
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Yup, you have solenoids sticking, but they may not be bad. Sorry I never saw your update with picture. It almost looks like your green wire terminal is touching that power bus on F1. Make sure that none of the control wires are touching any of the power bus bars, otherwise they will short to the bus and stay on.
Not sure why your motor is getting hot though, that is a strange one since I am assuming that the clutch is open on the winch and you are just free-spinning the motor.
Not sure why your motor is getting hot though, that is a strange one since I am assuming that the clutch is open on the winch and you are just free-spinning the motor.
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- #11
I had the drum turning as well. But it shouldn't be getting hot enough to burn me only running for 30 seconds with no load on it. As for sticking I don't know why they are. I did check to make sure nothing was touching but I'll recheck.
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- #12
I had the drum turning as well. But it shouldn't be getting hot enough to burn me only running for 30 seconds with no load on it, actually there isn't even a rope on it. As for sticking I don't know why they are. I did check to make sure nothing was touching but I'll recheck.
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- #13
Well I think I'm just going to order a superwinch solenoid and a new cover and backing plate. I thought I had these oness figured out but they stuck open on me again and nothing is touching. Ground go way to hot to touch, big ground cable. Motor burned me again.
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- #14
Does anyone know if this wiring diagram. Is correct? I just want to make sure before I wire it all up
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- Thread starter
- #15
Sorry it wouldn't up load
1911
chupacabra
That looks right, even though it's not the exact diagram that I used. IIRC, I ended up reversing the yellow and blue wires (in your diagram) from the contactor to the control plug to get my 8274 to run in and out with the right direction on my control switch.
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- #17
Sweet thank you. I'm just waiting on my new backing plate, aluminum solenoid cover and the winch solenoid from summit to get here. I'll post up a write up on how it goes together and pictures of how I mounted it and the parts once they arrive
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- #18
Here are some photos. If anyone has any question feel free to ask. And that wiring diagram is correct.
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- #19
I need some help. The snap ring broke sending my brake all over the place, as I went to put it all back together the brake won’t slide over the shaft anymore. As I went to remove it the pads broke, so I ordered new ones. Tried it again and the pads broke again as I was pulling it off. I can get the shaft to the very edge of the brake then it won't move anymore. I'm not very happy having spent 75 to rebuild the brake, then 50 for new pads and now 75 to rebuild it again in case I damaged anything. Can anyone help me figure out why the brake won't go over the shaft? It wasn't this hard last time I rebuilt this winch.
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- #20
I also noticed the cap is missing off the needle bearings for the brake shaft. Does this matter or will I be fine without it?
