Just trying to be respectful of your time, sir. I don't need $100 worth of injector connectors #90980-11153 and one ain't worth your time.
80 Series General Tech and Classifieds (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter MEMCruiser
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I don't care where you buy your parts from but at least get the correct part. A simple text message and you would have had the correct part number in 10 seconds or less.
maybe you could rent it out for Crawl. $100/ day plus broken parts!
Finally got the fuel injection sorted out on Half Ass and got it all buttoned up this morning. Cranked up pretty quickly and smoothed right out. Good to know my thinking was right and that's all that was wrong with #6. Wait, is that gas I smell? FML! #4 injector is leaking now. Had to pull it all the way back down due to a pinched o-ring on #4 injector 
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Ugh. That sucks.
Third time was a charm. Got it down to five hours from tear down to running again. Probably twice what it would take Rob but I hope I don't get any more practice.
Practice makes perfect. Did you throw anything?
Just a temper tantrum. Gotta quit doing that. Too hard to get back up off the floor.
LOL! Mental picture win, Bossman
Okay, learn from my mistakes. DO NOT try to do a quickie job on these injectors and go back in with the old injector seals. #2 is leaking now. Tear down #4 complete and parts are ordered. s***!
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OMG.......
Only have myself to blame. I figured I could get away with it because it's just Half Ass. Not like I need it to drive on the street. I was wrong. I'm a dumbass.
fj40charles
SILVER Star
that really stinks Daryl. We all need to get to SCC so we can actually relax and not have to worry about last minute projects.
early91fj80
SILVER Star
Due to time constraints with work and family, I am selling my '97 Land Cruiser with factory lockers. I wanted to offer it here first to gauge interest locally. I purchased this truck about two years ago with the motor having a thrown rod. It belonged to a friend of mine who was driving it up until that point and he decided not to repair. I pulled the motor and transmission, bagged and tagged all small parts, and pushed it into my carport where it has sat ever since. I purchased a seal kit from Onur (headgasket, misc. seals, etc.) which I will include. I am not enthused about selling, but see no way in the immediate future to complete. The truck has no rust and comes with a clean and clear title. There is no rust and the body is straight. I purchased another motor and had the head rebuilt at Jackson Cylinder Head in Jackson. The block is currently there waiting to be freshened, but I can get it for the new buyer. Again, everything related to make this truck complete is included in the price including the two front wheels which I took off to begin rebuilding the front birfs. I am not out of the Cotton Land family as I am keeping my '99. Below are some pictures and let me know what you think. I would like to get $3000.00 for everything. If interested, PM me or call 601-968-7585. Thanks, Joe
Paging Rob...
Will you sell it without the engine and Trans? If so do you have a price in mind? How many miles were on it when it developed the knock?
early91fj80
SILVER Star
It has about 246k when the motor went out. I haven't thought about selling it separately; let me think about it and I'll let you know. Joe
The YellowTop in the 80 finally laid down on me. 6 years isn't that bad I guess, especially since it didn't see regular usage and I didn't have a charger on it. So was curious I need to stick with an Optima 34/78 battery to fit the current battery box but wondering if I plan to keep a charger on it then would a RedTop work. I got the yellow one last time because I knew it would see long intervals with little use and hoped the deep cycle would take those big dips better. But if I keep a charger on it, the red should be fine, right?
Thoughts
Thoughts
I've not had good luck with the Reds even with semi regular use. The yellows have held up fairly well for me but the older seem to be better than the newer. Don't give up on that yellow until you try one more trick. First hook your charger up to a known good regular lead acid battery and get it charging then run jumper cables from that battery to your yellow. Low and slow seems to work better unless you have one of the top shelf charges designed to recover these things.
I had it hooked to my NOCO G3500. I had it on the AGM setting at 3.5A and it started going pretty well, but showed below 25% on the indicators. It charged for several hours, but sometime during the night I think something went south. I thought I heard an audible alarm that woke me up, but it was just once and so I went back to bed. Got up next morning and charger was on stand-by mode and when I checked the battery voltage it was 5.4V. While charging I would check it and it would roll from 5 to 8 to 10 and back again, so I was wondering if it had a dead cell or something in it that was dropping out. I brought it with me and I think I will take it over to the Zone and let them load test it.
I think I just neglected it too much over the last year. It sat for months with not so much as an attempt to start it. I hooked it to my 4Runner and left it idling for 20 minutes or so on saturday and I could barely get it to try to turn over. So I pulled it off and brought it over to try to charge it independent to no avail.
I had heard that Optima quality had gone south over the last few years, right about the time I pulled the trigger on and mounted the battery box, so I figure I will stick it out for another go around and see how it does. If the yellows seem to be holding up better then I will stick with them, just looking at CCA and cost between the 2 and wondering if the yellow was worth the extra $50 or so.
Thanks @Bossman
I think I just neglected it too much over the last year. It sat for months with not so much as an attempt to start it. I hooked it to my 4Runner and left it idling for 20 minutes or so on saturday and I could barely get it to try to turn over. So I pulled it off and brought it over to try to charge it independent to no avail.
I had heard that Optima quality had gone south over the last few years, right about the time I pulled the trigger on and mounted the battery box, so I figure I will stick it out for another go around and see how it does. If the yellows seem to be holding up better then I will stick with them, just looking at CCA and cost between the 2 and wondering if the yellow was worth the extra $50 or so.
Thanks @Bossman
