Builds 77 FJ40 Build, It begins...and may take a while (2 Viewers)

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today's the day. Im getting my transmission/transfer case. it came in yesterday and my friend who works at the trucking company picked it up for me. Ill get it from him this evening. NV4500 and atlas!!! now just waiting on the adapter kit to mate it to the OM617
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vae victus do you mean "unusual font" as not common metal stamp or unusual for a cruiser. as far as I know it's the original stamp. is this font different from other fj40s?
 
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vae victus do you mean "unusual font" as not common metal stamp or unusual for a cruiser. as far as I know it's the original stamp. is this font different from other fj40s?


I mean, unusual typeface, but may be normal for Toyota.

Not having looked before and knowing common fonts (typefaces) pretty well in the computer world - it's not a font you find normally.

If there is a common set of tool letter dies available for this Toyota typeface, I'd be really surprised: Seems too easy to use for ill intent.
 
I agree about the font but thought this would be the place to find out. I'll see what I can come up with yet.

so here's what was inside those well packed boxes!! this is the beginning of my own version of the icon hopefully. I hope to do this truck justice though for the purist you'll want to read other threads. my purpose is a modern type drive line, diesel, unique and keep the old school look and character. plus it'll be super capable. It'll take a while yet but let's see what I can do.

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it must be a sign I'm doing the right thing because this came in the mail today. I bought a sienna this year for my wife so I get toyotas news letter. this is just cool!
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I finally feel like the build has begun. I started welding stuff on tonight. I got the 4x4labs power steering plates a few months ago and started putting them on tonight. they fit pretty well but there are a few gaps here and there to span. I think they're going to look good and my bonus here is I can flip my fame to get nice welds underneath too. I'm not very good at welding upside down as I'm still pretty novice at it
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I cut the hole in the outside of the crossmember but my drill bought the farm on the far side. it's a good drill and less than a year old so hopefully I can get a replacement. I then tacked the rest of the plates in place and started the long welds
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ordered a power steering box today and it got me thinking. what colour should I go with it? black like the frame to keep it hidden or should I go a light grey that'll stand out a little. should I clear coat it to keep the natural cast colour? truck will be smurf blue but I don't want it any real colour. just black, grey or natural I just don't know which one. I'm leaning black like the frame
 
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spent some time in the shop again today. i have pretty much finished up welding my power steering plates in place. just waiting for my steering box to come in so i can adjust where the bolt holes sit and i can finish up this step. I'm getting to the point where theres not much i can do with out getting the next set of parts. they'll have to wait to january to order so I'm into next years budget. guess i'll have to work on my trailer instead. i did prime my engine today. figured i should get the self etching primer on before it rusts at all sitting waiting to go into the chassis. my plans are to go flat black for the accessories and the valve cover/oil pan. main block is going to be mercedes green from 1981 in respect for the car it came out of. here was it's last hurrah!
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well i've been on hold for a while here as i've been waiting for some parts. i'm still trying to get an adapter kit from 4x4 labs but luke hasn't built any recently. i've looked at a few other options and as much as i don't like to flare anyone publically i did have an exceptionally bad experience with these guys and recommend running away if you are looking at doing a OM617 swap with a chevy transmission. its Bendtsen's Speed Gem's Transmission Adapters website is www.transmissionadapters.com. I asked a few simple questions about his adapter and my set up and he was quite rude in his response treating me like a idiot. I was even up front saying i am new with these swaps, wanting to learn and he just didn't have the time for me. His business attitude is one that he couldn't care less about his costumer and my biggest fear about him would be his post purchase support. he'd probably tell you to bugger off like he did to me and give no support once he's got your money. i can't even give him benefit of doubt that he's having a bad day as it was email after email. i won't repeat the whole conversation but he blatently was belittling and demeaning. not someone i would want to purchase from. i'll bide my time and go to someone who actually has good customer service like luke at 4x4 labs. just wanted to give a heads up and buyer beware!!
 
Steffen has recently posted a beautiful rear sill reconstruction and it got me fired up to try it out myself. as I went out to measure up the 2x2 steel tube length I noticed that I have a notch in the top of the sill just in the door opening. I then noticed that the straight section is full tube measuring 1.75 inches wide. the horns are 2.25 inches high and look original. is this the POs attempt to fix a rotten sill. should a 77 fj40 have a notch in the sill like this one? thanks for any insight.
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also these are my doors. they are rounded inside and square outside on the corners. are these the correct year?
 
thanks. i guess i'll have to figure out what actually needs to be rebuilt on my sill and and include the notch. seems that other ambulance door 40s have the same notch. that might make it a little more difficult but not impossible.
 
I sure hope so. it's been slow but fun. would you show me a few pics of up inside your rear sill? thanks
 
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just tinkered a little tonight. as I'm using an centered rear diff my cross member needed to be adjusted. the hoop needs to be in the center so I put it there.

I also did some more finishing welds around the power steering plates. I really need to get moving on getting axles and springs put together. that's really the next step in getting the
 
ok so while I'm modifying my frame i figured i'd ask you guys your opinion on rear bumper mounting. my plan is for a swing out tire carrier like the 4 plus one. my rear crossmember is in decent shape but the corner channels (i think thats what they are called) are rusted pretty bad. i was thinking of taking the rear channels and cross member out and build a rear bumper similar to the 4plus one for the 60 series that integrates a new rear crossmember. this may open up a little more space for a rear fuel tank. i know i'll have to modify the way the shackle hangers mount but seeing as i have to do that anyway its not an issue. i know the frame on the 62 is parallel in the back where it is not on the 40 but that can be built into the mounting design. does anyone see a problem with doing this. it's more for a safety/ strength reasons i'm asking. it will not affect licensing where i live.

or is it better to mount it to the cross member like the 4plus ones. i want to build the tail lights into the bumper so they're not hidden. they are a little covered up with the 4plus one. i also want to keep my bumperettes which you can't do with the 4plus one otherwise i'd just buy daves bumper. i guess his is actually a tire carrier not a true bumper but you get the idea i think.
 

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