74fj40 timing from scratch? (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Feb 19, 2010
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Location
newport ri
hey guys i need some help I'm trying to get my fj running again. i hand cranked the engine to tdc on the bb and set the distributer so the rotor is on one and the bugger still sputters and backfires and won't start. what am i doing wrong? pls help this is new to me.
 
Are you absolutely, positively sure that you are on TDC on the compression stroke, and not the exhaust stroke? That's the first thing to check.
 
should i open my valve cover to be absolutely sure? the valves should be closed on the compression stroke correct?
 
Yeah, that is the sure way; both valves on #1 would be closed all the way. If you don't want to take the valve cover off, you can put a thumb/finger blocking the #1 spark plug hole, and you will feel the air pushing your finger off on the compression stroke. Might take a little practice to get the feel of it while you are rotating the engine at the same time.
 
I'm trying to do this solo and not having a lot of luck. every other time i see the bb only one valve is depressed .
 
First and foremost, make sure that the distributor is all the way in and you have oil pressure before you start it

Put the engine at TDC, preferably on the compression stroke for #1. Put the distributor in with the rotor pointing to the #4 spark plug. Notice that the rotor turns as the distributor drops down and in, so start with rotor pointing about 30 degrees from where you want it to end up.

Static time the engine by retarding the distributor (clockwise) an then turn the key on and turn the distributor CCW until it just makes a spark or until the points open.

Then try starting the engine and time it.

If it won't start, then it is 180 degrees out. Swap spark plug wires that are 180 degrees opposite each other on the distributor cap (eg. 1& 6; 2&5; 3&4) and then start it again and time it.
 
Pin Head's post is on the mark (he's the voice of experience). The only thing I can add is (if your driveway/floor area is fairly flat) that if I happen to be working solo I will put the trans in gear and rock the 40 back and forth to easily turn the motor the small amount needed to do the final aligning of the timing mark on the flywheel.

Don
 
#4 spark plug itself, which is screwed into the head.

There are lots of ways to turn the engine easily:

1. Jump between the battery cable and the spade lug (the one with the black wire with white stripe) on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver.

2. Put a socket wrench on the alternator pulley nut and then push down on the belt to increase tension and use the wrench to turn it.
 
ok i have gotten the engine to top dead center rotar on one facing number fourspark plug. now new problem no spark. have power to sign coil. checked all leads seam to be fine. what have i done wrong?
 
do you have spark going from the coil to the dizzy then? you are using the larger black yellow wire to power coil +. maybe pics of your dizzy setup
 
#4 spark plug itself, which is screwed into the head.

There are lots of ways to turn the engine easily:

1. Jump between the battery cable and the spade lug (the one with the black wire with white stripe) on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver.

2. Put a socket wrench on the alternator pulley nut and then push down on the belt to increase tension and use the wrench to turn it.

3. put the truck in 4th (or 3rd) gear and gently rock it fore or aft
 
ok guys i fixed my spark problem . tried to start and it sounded labored. i swapped all wires to see if i was 180 out. it just backfired.
 
so you got spark now? what do you mean labored.
 
battery is to low. charging it now. when it did fire up it immediately died out any suggestions on tuning?
 
what shape is your carb in, been rebuilt or cleaned? dizzy might be off a bit.
 

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