71FJ40 Chevota (1 Viewer)

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Just ordered all the fittings for my clutch line and hose.
The 76 master seems to use a 10mmx1.0 inverted flare and the slave uses a 10mmx1.0 crush washer fitting
I bought the adapter to a -3AN line for the master (FRA-650307#3 BRAKE ADAPTER STEEL), then a -3AN SS hose (FRA-322030STR X 90 BRKLINE BLK CVRD ASSY).
For the slave, I had to do an extra adapter, but this is still cheeper than any of the pre-made options out there (provided it all works)
FRA-460408-BL#4 X 10 X 1.0 METRIC ADAPTER - this has the straight crush fitting
FRA-497204SWIVEL REDUCER - this converts from -4 to -3AN
FRA-999210ALUM CRUSH WASHER 10 PK - and of course, I needed to buy crush fittings
Will post photos and let you all know if it works. So far I've spent about $100 on the master, slave and hose.
 
Got the parts and couldn't wait to open the box (love summit delivery times!)
Everything worked! So if anyone's looking to upgrade to the 76 clutch setup, I got the master and slave from rockauto, then some adapters to run a 30" AN line between.
I'm sure you could just buy a 30" SS line with 10mm ends on it, but I couldn't find one so I did this.
I ended up cheaper than some of the kitted alternatives and I like the black coated ss line.
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Bolted everything up today and adjusted.
I have about 1/16" play at the clutch fork and I pulled my drives haft to see if I'm getting any drag when the clutch is depressed.
I put it in the lowest (1st on the trans and 4wd low), let the clutch out, then depress it. Since the output shaft stopped with basically no load on it (ie no drive shafts, just the drag internal to the trans/transfer) I figure I'm good to go. I'll try to get closer more like .08" freeplay just to be safe. Super happy so far with the clutch :)
I also discovered that my brake master cylinder is leaking. Luckily I have a 69 master that I was using for a clutch master.
Unfortunately, my "71 FJ40", has a frame ID from 67.:confused:
That means I have the elusive 9mm brake lines. I pulled the 10mm fitting off my old clutch line and re-flared my brake line to fit the 69 brake master (10mm inlet). Now I just need to bleed the brakes... sadly the bleeders are frozen :bang: so now I've got them soaking with penetrating fluid. Hopefully tomorrow I can bleed and take this thing for a spin.
pics to follow:
 
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New AA bracket lines up way better than the bent one I pulled off
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I'm collecting quite the "spare" parts pile
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I think @Rainman might be working on a 9mm brake line solution. Not sure what the status is though
 
Got the parts and couldn't wait to open the box (love summit delivery times!)
Everything worked! So if anyone's looking to upgrade to the 76 clutch setup, I got the master and slave from rockauto, then some adapters to run a 30" AN line between.
I'm sure you could just buy a 30" SS line with 10mm ends on it, but I couldn't find one so I did this.
I ended up cheaper than some of the kitted alternatives and I like the black coated ss line.
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sorry for doing this, but I need this information for my build and I'm too lazy to do a spreadsheet (so I'll let mud do it for me by noting on this post ;)

and this is far better than what I did on my 1st '40 - I blew the line in Milton-Freewater, Oregon. Stopped at a wrecking yard and pulled a used line off a Celica (this was some years back)... worked great, was a bit long, but I coiled it three times around the column and I was good-to-go...
 
No prob I do the same thing. Have so many posts flagged, I get lost trying to get back to them.
I'm pretty happy with how the clutch set up turned out. It's clean and no custom or hard to find parts. Plenty of travel for the LUK pressure plate too.
 
Adjusted the clutch a little more today, got about .100 free play at the end, then can lift the clutch a little before it starts engaging.
Very happy with it.
Bled the brakes
Changed the spark plugs - NGK 2771, gapped to .040 - I have an HEI, 350, with iron heads, these seem to be a good pick, but to be honest there are so many choices i really just ended up picking the most popular one. I like using anti-seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the nipple.
Then I got into some paint and body. For now, the paint plan is this:
Remove all lose material
Undercoat anything I can't see (back side, underneath, and behind)
topcoat with flat khaki (rattle can)
I already have truck that's too nice to go in the woods because I don't want to scratch it ('66 F100 4x4). I'm looking for good protection and decent looks.
Anyway happy with how that turned out too.

Up next:
Install seat belts
Install Front pinion flange
Source a Double Cardin driveshaft for the rear
Move the rear drive shaft (single cardin) to the front temporarilly

pics to follow.
 
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I undercoated the headlight buckets too because I had to remove a little surface rust prior to paint
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Turned out pretty good
Then I was bored and unsupervised, so... I found some pallets for a curb flex, not bad for 2wd (no front driveshaft)
 
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Yea, apparently my fiance had slated those pallets for some sort of decorative outdoor project. She wasn't happy when she saw the photo.
I guess that's what happens when she leaves me unsupervised for the weekend.
 
Yea, apparently my fiance had slated those pallets for some sort of decorative outdoor project. She wasn't happy when she saw the photo.
I guess that's what happens when she leaves me unsupervised for the weekend.

Just leave the 40 flexed up there on top of the pile. Tell her it's yard art. You were just trying to help!
 
Yea, apparently my fiance had slated those pallets for some sort of decorative outdoor project. She wasn't happy when she saw the photo.
I guess that's what happens when she leaves me unsupervised for the weekend.

You know, for someone who lives in Seattle, that picture sure looks like Auburn ;)
 
Ah, yes, that would be fantastic to see every day as I headed off to work. Hmm I may need to procure a large boulder, maybe build a stream with a bridge. Then have the 40 flexed on the boulder with an axle in the steam.
Yard art indeed.
 
So I picked up 2 driveshafts this week.
One is from an 85 mini truck, 25"-28" long, flange pattern on the pinion is 60mmx60mm, the CV side is 68.5mm x 60mm.
The other is from an ifs truck, 22"-25" long, flange pattern on the pinion is 60mm x 60mm.
The problem is that the CV pattern seems to be 70mm x 63mm. I thought it matched the other axle and can't find a reference for a larger pattern on ifs trucks.

So I have 2 questions, if anyone has an opinion.

Is it possible the flange pattern on the ifs shaft is 70 x 63, or just tolerance stack from a 68.5 x 60?

The 85 has more flex in the CV joint, is that better placed in the front or rear of the truck? I was assuming it should go wherever the shorter shaft was needed, but that would put it up front.

Thanks for any input,
Nick
 
Thanks, I plan to do some work with an angle finder next weekend and see where everything sits.

Currently the front diff is pointing at the t/c. One option is to use caster shims to make it level, increasing caster (or decreasing numbers ally, can never remember which is neg) then use a standard driveshaft with parallel outputs. This depends on how much caster I have right now and if a c&t has been done.

On the other hand, redoing the CT is the "right" thing to do, IF I have a caster problem.

So the front diff will probably remain pointing at the TC and I'll use a cv front and rear.... More next weekend when I have time to take pics and measurements on the truck.
 
Thanks, I plan to do some work with an angle finder next weekend and see where everything sits.

Currently the front diff is pointing at the t/c. One option is to use caster shims to make it level, increasing caster (or decreasing numbers ally, can never remember which is neg) then use a standard driveshaft with parallel outputs. This depends on how much caster I have right now and if a c&t has been done.

On the other hand, redoing the CT is the "right" thing to do, IF I have a caster problem.

So the front diff will probably remain pointing at the TC and I'll use a cv front and rear.... More next weekend when I have time to take pics and measurements on the truck.
Not if she has you doing pinterest pallet projects.
 
Most don't worry about the front driveshaft because of how it's used. On a full time 4x4, you need to be really careful with angles and such. The point of equal angles is to reduce or eliminate vibrations. However, on a part-time set up when most of the time it's in 4 wheel drive only at low speeds (vibrations tend to have a bottom range in the 45-60 mph range), you don't have to be terribly exact in similar angles or steep angles. A lot of guys will remove the CV off the front of their full-size 73-87 Chevy pickups to gain strength and because they simply don't drive 60 mph or faster in four wheel drive.

Which is a long-winded way of saying, be concerned about castor and not so much about the front angles. On the rear, it's a different story - but on the front, cheaper is actually better because of strength and less things to break.
 

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