dohcdelsol93
snoogans
the inline 6
71FJ40 Chevota (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 71FJnick
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I was thinking V8 clutch for a V8 swap and coming up blank at Autozone.
Last edited:
71FJnick
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #43
Here's my current parts list:
Lc165473s (04-072) clutch kit
Note the lc165552 (04-042) is a high profile clutch
716316 TOB for the Chevy trans to 350
716176 release arm and 716139 fork wedge
715527 linkage bracket
716370 transfer case front yoke kit
Any feedback? This is getting spendy, I really don't want to pull the trans again because I tried to save a buck. Also, I don't want to empty the bank on a clutch
Lc165473s (04-072) clutch kit
Note the lc165552 (04-042) is a high profile clutch
716316 TOB for the Chevy trans to 350
716176 release arm and 716139 fork wedge
715527 linkage bracket
716370 transfer case front yoke kit
Any feedback? This is getting spendy, I really don't want to pull the trans again because I tried to save a buck. Also, I don't want to empty the bank on a clutch
Last edited:
X2 on six cylinder. They were used in many different vehicles. Early 70s. Low diaphragm refers to the angle of the tines... You want the ones that sit flat (as apposed to conical).
I'd highly recomend a new 'LUK' brand clutch. Stay away from reman.
Downey Bel housings work with a 2F throw out, 2F fork. I've had good results since 1996 with my stock 74 clutch master, 74 Slave, and a braided SS line.
I'd highly recomend a new 'LUK' brand clutch. Stay away from reman.
Downey Bel housings work with a 2F throw out, 2F fork. I've had good results since 1996 with my stock 74 clutch master, 74 Slave, and a braided SS line.
Just re-read your first post and realized you're running a chevy trans... So disregard the 2F parts.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
Sbc bolt pattern is sbc....I used this set up on a 1988 model 305.
the inline six was manufactured by GM for checker
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
It was just balanced as well as other steps to make it a much more reliable engine than your run of the mill GM motor. Million mile motors
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
Using the Downey bellhousing adapter to the stock 3 speed I used a stock throw out bearing for the 67 fj40
I can't tell you what clutch fork I used as I used the one that came with the bellhousing I got second hand.
Used stock aftermarket fj40 clutch master and slave.
I can't tell you what clutch fork I used as I used the one that came with the bellhousing I got second hand.
Used stock aftermarket fj40 clutch master and slave.
71FJnick
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #52
Bolted up the flywheel with new ARP bolts (torque to 85 ft-lbs with permatex red threadlocker)
Bolted the pressure plate and clutch disk up (torque to 35ft-lbs with red threadlocker)
Everything centered up pretty well, installed the cast GM clutch arm and TOB (p/ns 716176 and 716316)
Put a little grease on the input splines, transmission shaft and clutch arm pivot
TOB moved well on the transmission so i started putting the whole thing back together
I had to remove the AA transfer case mount and remove the studs from the back to get everything to clear the rear crossbeam.
I used an angle finder and a transmission jack to make sure I matched the pitch on the motor.
Not too much wrestling was needed to stab it in. Getting the AA transfer case mount back in was a pain, just not a lot of room.
I'm not sure I like the AA mount, but it works and is what the truck is set up with so I'll keep it.
I torqued the transfer case mount to transfer case bolts to 11ft-lbs because that seems to be what the inspection cover was torqued to.
Seems a little low... Anyone know what torque these should be?
Torqued the bellhousing bolts to 25ft-lbs and put the bushings in under the AA transfer case mount. That's it for today. Pics to follow
Bolted the pressure plate and clutch disk up (torque to 35ft-lbs with red threadlocker)
Everything centered up pretty well, installed the cast GM clutch arm and TOB (p/ns 716176 and 716316)
Put a little grease on the input splines, transmission shaft and clutch arm pivot
TOB moved well on the transmission so i started putting the whole thing back together
I had to remove the AA transfer case mount and remove the studs from the back to get everything to clear the rear crossbeam.
I used an angle finder and a transmission jack to make sure I matched the pitch on the motor.
Not too much wrestling was needed to stab it in. Getting the AA transfer case mount back in was a pain, just not a lot of room.
I'm not sure I like the AA mount, but it works and is what the truck is set up with so I'll keep it.
I torqued the transfer case mount to transfer case bolts to 11ft-lbs because that seems to be what the inspection cover was torqued to.
Seems a little low... Anyone know what torque these should be?
Torqued the bellhousing bolts to 25ft-lbs and put the bushings in under the AA transfer case mount. That's it for today. Pics to follow
71FJnick
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #54
secured the cross member today, had to put the bolts back in from the top, meaning my 1" holes in the floor will need to be plugged with a removable body plug. I didn't have enough space on top of the adapter to get a wrench in to hold the nut while I tightened the bolt, so I had to use a socket through the body.
I can't figure out if the body is too low, or the engine/trans/TC are too high... but that'll have to wait for a while, I'm not interested in re-welding any of the mounts right now and everything else seems to be fitting together OK. If I ever have to cut a bracket off, i'll deal with it then.
Got the starter, flywheel dust cover and slave cylinder bolted on. Not happy with how the AA slave bracket looks. It's bent... or seems bent.
Hard to tell if this is another PO "fix" or if the bracket bent due to a failure on the AA design (pics to follow).
Anyone have experience with the AA bracket? Is there another option that's stronger?
I'm going to order a matched master/slave with a SS line, just need to decide where to buy from, also if I need a new bracket...
I can't figure out if the body is too low, or the engine/trans/TC are too high... but that'll have to wait for a while, I'm not interested in re-welding any of the mounts right now and everything else seems to be fitting together OK. If I ever have to cut a bracket off, i'll deal with it then.
Got the starter, flywheel dust cover and slave cylinder bolted on. Not happy with how the AA slave bracket looks. It's bent... or seems bent.
Hard to tell if this is another PO "fix" or if the bracket bent due to a failure on the AA design (pics to follow).
Anyone have experience with the AA bracket? Is there another option that's stronger?
I'm going to order a matched master/slave with a SS line, just need to decide where to buy from, also if I need a new bracket...
71FJnick
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #56
Adjusted the bracket and made a pushrod for the slave cylinder, seems to line up OK and the clutch fully disengages and engages
I still have the 1" dia brake master as my clutch master so I get 20% more travel, pedal effort isn't too bad and I can fully engage and disengage. With the short throw pressure plate I have some nice free play when disengaged.
My bank account wants me to leave it alone and work other issues, but the engineer in me wants to buy a new (non bent) slave bracket and a matching clutch master and slave with SS lines....
I think the bank wins this one...
I still have the 1" dia brake master as my clutch master so I get 20% more travel, pedal effort isn't too bad and I can fully engage and disengage. With the short throw pressure plate I have some nice free play when disengaged.
My bank account wants me to leave it alone and work other issues, but the engineer in me wants to buy a new (non bent) slave bracket and a matching clutch master and slave with SS lines....
I think the bank wins this one...
71FJnick
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #57
So the engineer won.
I just ordered a '76 master and slave from rockauto. I need to figure out an SS line to run between them, but I like the idea of running a matched set, post 74.
p/ns are CRT012 (AISIN slave) and CMT014 (AISIN Master).
Will order a non-bent bracket from Summit for the slave once I figure out a hose.
Anyone know the fitting sizes from the master to slave?
I just ordered a '76 master and slave from rockauto. I need to figure out an SS line to run between them, but I like the idea of running a matched set, post 74.
p/ns are CRT012 (AISIN slave) and CMT014 (AISIN Master).
Will order a non-bent bracket from Summit for the slave once I figure out a hose.
Anyone know the fitting sizes from the master to slave?
71FJnick
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #59
Thanks, the 'mud crowd has been awesome an there's lots of great info here. I'm finally settled into the reality that it will be a while before I get to go nuts off-road. I'm enjoying fixing things and making it "right" or as close as I can get it for now.
It's a fun process, and I'm learning a lot.
It's a fun process, and I'm learning a lot.
There's something therapeutic about fixing these things up...When I bought it, I really wanted to drive it and worry about making it right later. Well, I've driven mine something like 500 miles in the nearly 4 years I've had it...so, a LOT more fixing than running it - but I've found I have more fun fixing it.
Keep it up! I'm finishing up some electrical stuff. After that, it's a long wait while I pile up the parts and tools to pull the engine and reinstall it where it belongs. Learning a lot from your build, so you have to stay ahead of me, and take lots of pictures!
