69 fj40 Building on a buget "I wish" (1 Viewer)

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I used the Rust Enapsulator on several frames, inside and out.

To clean the inside of the frame, get a small sqaure flue brush - see ebay. I got the last I bought for $12 bucks. Make a template of the inside of the frame and then cut down the brush with a pair of diagonal cutters until it fits. I used a lazer level to aim at where I should cut. It does not have to be exact and should be larger than the inside of the opening. Attach a fiberglass chimney rod to the one end and a rope to the other. Push in at the rear of the frame where the spring hanger is and at the same time, have someone pull a rope that has been threaded through the frame. Work back and forth.

I then used a foam brush made for cleaning baby bottles to paint the inside - worked perfectly. 99 cents at the dollar store, throw away when done.

-Stumbaugh

That's damn good to know. I was actually just thinking about how I was going to do this.
 
No the rear is going SOA also used SUA to set the rear perches I'm waiting on some new bushings set no.3 to fit the 55 springs. I burned the front knuckles on and my axle trusses/ shock mount. Got to finish the frame paint and undercarriage to finish the steering.

The baby bottle brush didn’t work to good for me I ended up using a sponge with a fabric cover over it.

I’ll post picks soon.

Chris
 
I got my F250 shock towers ($34.00) Friday. I'm out of town till monday can't wait to get them on.

chris
 
Its slow going with all the summer “honey do” work. The 40 is slow going I got my drive shaft lengthened to get my pinion angle. But I have to back up and redo my rear perches. The shackle angle is like 30 deg.

Chris
 
we need pix !!!!!
 
here is a pic of the radiator bracket I notched the side to clear the PS box.
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fits like a glove
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Here is some more pics for you junkies’!
250 shock mounts bolted up.
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My shocks are a little to short now.:)
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Got the floor shifter off the parts 40 and mounted can't get the transfer case shifter off, its frozen onto the bolt. PO did not keep it greased.
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steering wheel mount base
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look at those booger welds. (I hate flux core)
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this is my steering shaft after I lowered the body down.
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She's coming along now!
 
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Got some more done the rear spring hangers are tacked on its around a 58 deg
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I'm waiting for my front axle seal to come in then I have to load it up and take it to my work to weld all the new shackle mounts and the frame boxing up.
 
Can anyone tell me if this is a good price for this.
--GM truck Muncie 4 speed with granny gear, SM420, $125
 
thats two different trannys? id say cheap for either. which is it?
 
Not to sure? I thought it was 1 tyranny called 2 different names but I am looking for a SM420. I’ll check the cast no if it is still available.
And is there a sign that it needs rebuilt without tearing it apart.

Chris
 
Can anyone tell me if this is a good price for this.
--GM truck Muncie 4 speed with granny gear, SM420, $125

$125 for a complete, later Sm420 with top plate is reasonable whether or not it needs rebuilding.

The earlier SM420's had a bronze bushing on the input shaft vs a rubber seal, and these older SM420's tend to leak gear oil down the input shaft onto the clutch on steep declines.
 
I’ve been getting after it pretty good the last 2 weekends mocked my passengers seat brackets up moved me drivers side back 2 inches pulled my rear axle to weld on the shock mounts and the perches. Trying to get the parts for the rear anti wrap bar. Unsure weather to use round or square tubing. I’ll post up some pic’s tonight.

The sm420 fell throw the guys not emailing back (probably sold) and I can’t find a flat adapter.

Chris
 
Jakes just got done readin your build...great job...I had my 40 for about 4 years before I got my act together and got it road worthy with the disk brakes and new carb and distributor new tranny and tcase and some other things and then my maiden voyage was a 250 mile trip to the beach...made it there and back without a hickup....I know you had to be pumped when you fired her up..nothin runs like a toyota!Now I'll continue on the body work now that I know it's drivable....did you just use a wire wheel brush for the outside of your frame??
 
As promised here iss some cruiser porn :popcorn:

Built the passengers seat frame out of some 1" pipe I had laying around
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Bent the 90deg bends with my new/used torch and an old break rotor. Had to angle around the drive train have another piece to go on and reinforce the offset when finished.
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Back bracket
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Front bracket
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now I'm working on my traction bar trying to find a good hiem joint rod end

Thanks for taking the time to browse my thread!
Chris
 
Jakes just got done readin your build...great job...I had my 40 for about 4 years before I got my act together and got it road worthy with the disk brakes and new carb and distributor new tranny and tcase and some other things and then my maiden voyage was a 250 mile trip to the beach...made it there and back without a hickup....I know you had to be pumped when you fired her up..nothin runs like a toyota!Now I'll continue on the body work now that I know it's drivable....did you just use a wire wheel brush for the outside of your frame??

Yes mostly just wire wheeled it and then painted with rust encapsulater.

Chris
 
been working on the rear traction bar I don't know how this will look on here but this is what I've come up with the mesurements are not all wright.
trackbar.jpg

just ordered these I'm gettint the steel this week 1.5 x .25 wall square stock should mee pritty BEEFY!
joint.jpg

squarerodend.jpg
 
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