Builds 4bt cummins 96 FZJ (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter cjmoon
- Start date
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He has a KDP video on his you tube channel. Whose to say if it was done on that motor though.
Well there's hope! Maybe they'll chime in?
Yeah but after what you've discovered so far wouldn't you just want double check for yourself?
Making progress and switching over to the 6BT thread I guess: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cummins-6bt-conversion.825756/page-2#post-9484826
Small update. Started the motor sans trans yesterday with all new bearings, modded pan, etc. Running good. Stabbed the trans last night as well, and now just need to button things up. Will drop the trans pan and bump the PRV preload while it's on the lift, install the stock springs with spacers in the back (ditching the heavy duty TJM rear springs that Duiser installed), and go for a test drive... With a twinge of luck, should be back on the road around 2AM tonight (can't work on it till business, wife, and kid are asleep.lol)
(can't work on it till business, wife, and kid are asleep.lol)
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Back to knocking?
Funny you should ask. Yes:/
Been a bit of an emotional roller coaster. Kept find things that were wrong but apparently couldn't fix it all.
Loose FW from wrong bolts meant broken thrust bearing. Replaced all mains and rods since we were there anyway. None if the bearings looked terrible. I did tighten up the rod oil clearance by .001-.0014 or so with new bearings. Mains were fine short of the thrust.
Put it all back together with tight FW and torque converter, modded pan, new bearings, etc. Soon as she warmed up was knocking just as before. It the same hardcore thunking knock felt in the cabin floor. It's for sure not the motor hitting the cab. It's tied to rpm. It's not up top like an injector but down low. So I'm left with a wrist pin failure.
Amazes me that a wrist pin bush would fail. Perhaps they're not adequately oiled from the ring lands? There seems to be a lot of pin failures in the 4/6bt on the forums.
So now it's down to refreshing the motor or finding another to stab in.
A bit short on time for this. Weighing my options between just writing a check to solve the problem or doing all this myself. Time is tough to print. ....... It's a shame. The truck drives perfectly with the 6BT. Power is endless and it's smooth. Just need to keep the radio in high to drown out the motor knock. Lol
Been a bit of an emotional roller coaster. Kept find things that were wrong but apparently couldn't fix it all.
Loose FW from wrong bolts meant broken thrust bearing. Replaced all mains and rods since we were there anyway. None if the bearings looked terrible. I did tighten up the rod oil clearance by .001-.0014 or so with new bearings. Mains were fine short of the thrust.
Put it all back together with tight FW and torque converter, modded pan, new bearings, etc. Soon as she warmed up was knocking just as before. It the same hardcore thunking knock felt in the cabin floor. It's for sure not the motor hitting the cab. It's tied to rpm. It's not up top like an injector but down low. So I'm left with a wrist pin failure.
Amazes me that a wrist pin bush would fail. Perhaps they're not adequately oiled from the ring lands? There seems to be a lot of pin failures in the 4/6bt on the forums.
So now it's down to refreshing the motor or finding another to stab in.
A bit short on time for this. Weighing my options between just writing a check to solve the problem or doing all this myself. Time is tough to print. ....... It's a shame. The truck drives perfectly with the 6BT. Power is endless and it's smooth. Just need to keep the radio in high to drown out the motor knock. Lol
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
Man that really sucks.. Though once you get it rebuilt you will know exactly what you have.
- Thread starter
- #291
Well I haven't had much time to update. Chasing some fueling issues that I finally got resolved. I had a 3200 gov spring that I just could get to rev higher than about 2800 with major refueling. I would move my throuttle shaft from the 2nd to the 3rd orientation. Mark and it would run away. It was frustrating.
So naturally a 3800 spring seems to be the next step. And again the 2nd position about 2900rpm but more fuel. That was better. I finally thought lets try the 3rd position. The 3800 spring is a longer spring was hoping that the length would keep it from rung away. It did I now have free rev up to 3800rpm it fuels hard all the way to the choke point of my hx30
In the mean time. I had been meaning to install my slee castor plates for some time and got off infant watching duty long enough to install. Install was smooth and drives way better in the highway. But my 45-50 shimmy turned into Death Wobble.
I just rebuilt the front end about 1000 miles ago. The shimmy almost went away with that. But more caster didn't help that.
Have new tie rod ends and front rubber bushings coming from Toyota. And then I'll have it professionally aligned see if that does the trick.
Then in to turbo and tuning activities. Getting my waistgate working should help.
So naturally a 3800 spring seems to be the next step. And again the 2nd position about 2900rpm but more fuel. That was better. I finally thought lets try the 3rd position. The 3800 spring is a longer spring was hoping that the length would keep it from rung away. It did I now have free rev up to 3800rpm it fuels hard all the way to the choke point of my hx30
In the mean time. I had been meaning to install my slee castor plates for some time and got off infant watching duty long enough to install. Install was smooth and drives way better in the highway. But my 45-50 shimmy turned into Death Wobble.
I just rebuilt the front end about 1000 miles ago. The shimmy almost went away with that. But more caster didn't help that.
Have new tie rod ends and front rubber bushings coming from Toyota. And then I'll have it professionally aligned see if that does the trick.
Then in to turbo and tuning activities. Getting my waistgate working should help.
2fpower
SILVER Star
Remember that alignment on these is only toe in. Was taught years ago to use tape measure and walk away.
I have seen people put the castor correction in backwards. You sure you did it right? sorry to ask, but the Slee pics are not that great. It did not make sense to some to make the axle input gear down more instead of straight, but you know that.
Double cardon driveshaft may be a good solution if it is driveshaft.
I have seen people put the castor correction in backwards. You sure you did it right? sorry to ask, but the Slee pics are not that great. It did not make sense to some to make the axle input gear down more instead of straight, but you know that.
Double cardon driveshaft may be a good solution if it is driveshaft.
I'm getting that way about alignments as well. I do have a 3 year plan at NTB that I used to bring it to anytime I replaced something. Every time the before and after sheet shows minimum change if any. Lately I just try to not move the wheels if I change any steering items and then measure afterwards. I did take it in after castor changes just to get a data sheet.
- Thread starter
- #295
I ran more and more toe just for curiosity it may have gotten a touch better but never gone. Almost got all the front end rubber replaced. Just one more trailing arm left.
Man those bushing are in there ever tight. Every time they move it made a pretty loud pop and would jump a 1/4". But with the press tools i made for it made it easy so far. The track bar bushings looked the worst. But the rest not to bad
Also took my vacuum pump out to reseal. rebuilt it when I put it in a year ago but the main oring looked small when I installed and started leaking again. I used cummins parts the first go around. Found an outfit that supplies oversized orings and am giving that a try. It's more what expect for an oring seal. The factory one is tiny no wonder it leaks.
Man those bushing are in there ever tight. Every time they move it made a pretty loud pop and would jump a 1/4". But with the press tools i made for it made it easy so far. The track bar bushings looked the worst. But the rest not to bad
Also took my vacuum pump out to reseal. rebuilt it when I put it in a year ago but the main oring looked small when I installed and started leaking again. I used cummins parts the first go around. Found an outfit that supplies oversized orings and am giving that a try. It's more what expect for an oring seal. The factory one is tiny no wonder it leaks.
- Thread starter
- #296
bit of an update. been chasing smoke/haze adjusting pump all over the place. i finally took my 5x.012 sac injectors out and put my original 5x???. back in. no notice in lose of power but running perfectly clean. i was running the same injectors in my 98 12v and liked them maybe a touch of smoke when cold but seemed to run clean enough. i felt like white trash, my 4bt didn't like them seemed to haze below 10-15psi of boost. I might not have been willing to run enough timing at this point to clean them up. either way i'm very happy with the stock injectors for now. I don't have an engine data plate but would assume i have 155* bowls and original injectors. I had a 1987 California emissions plate VE non intercooled from a frito-lay 1977 p30. my 5x.012" are 145* injectors as it seams like people didn't have much issue on the early dodge models.
egt all seems the same also i'm 700-900 under any throttle input runs there till about 25psi where boost stalls and then starts to climb above 1000 were I try to let off.
hope MPG numbers change. trying to drive reasonably this tank to beat the 17 which is my max
egt all seems the same also i'm 700-900 under any throttle input runs there till about 25psi where boost stalls and then starts to climb above 1000 were I try to let off.
hope MPG numbers change. trying to drive reasonably this tank to beat the 17 which is my max
- Thread starter
- #297
Did some intercooler tube changes. And got rid of 2 boots and bead rolled all my joints to help seal everything up.
Originally I used to not get the same boost level 24 max some times 28 others with egt jumping at that point. I was suspect that I had some boost leaks. Now I'm pretty consistent 30psi and steady climb on the egt
Next is some wiring cleanup and torque converter lock up switch.
Originally I used to not get the same boost level 24 max some times 28 others with egt jumping at that point. I was suspect that I had some boost leaks. Now I'm pretty consistent 30psi and steady climb on the egt
Next is some wiring cleanup and torque converter lock up switch.
How did u roll the beads?
I might need to have an intake hose rolled, good to know
