40/40 Vision (1 Viewer)

[Solace in Solitude]

Chris, Re: "With the bypass hose installed, can the TC fluid level be effectively maintained via the tranny?"

In my particular experience, the bypass hose keeps both the tranny and the tcase level...

I can't recall which is higher (tcase, I think) and my 40 is undergoing an engine rebuild, so is not available to look...

Assuming tcase is higher... my tcase has a slight leak into the tranny... overfilling the tranny... the tranny overfill flows through the bypass. back to the tcase... voila! the tranny and tcase remain level.

But, being paranoid, I always check both the tcase and the tranny fluid levels.

EDIT:

If your intent is to never remove the tcase plug... I can't say that every ones' (your's included) experience will be the same as mine.

My cheapo HF 12V Impact Driver comment was meant to impress you with the fact that it doesn't have enough power to snap much of anything. SO, I can keep at it and never worry about breaking something.

Are you sure your tcase plug wasn't put on with red loctite (which releases at about 500 degrees)? Maybe you can hit the plug with a propane torch for a few seconds and then drive it out... that's what a gunsmith had to do with the sights on my new M&P Shield. Smith and Wesson install the factory sights with red loctite.

 

[Delancy]

Good to know on bypass. I think I have one somewhere, and will install for the month or so, before H55 swaps in. Will worry about the bolt then.

Will say that the transmission is much quieter with good lube, as is the engine.

 

[Delancy]

Carb is on and running, but not without issues.

Pretty sure I want to cap this at the insulator base, since there's no part of emission or recovery still intact.

Must be plugged, because it's not connected to anything.



Took me a while to figure out the jumper hose (cap) must've broke.



Flat spot or hesitation from no throttle.

https://youtu.be/QrVGF5VTbnE

(Son got a little crazy on the gas..)

https://youtu.be/ybotYiYmn74

Short of the hesitation, a major improvement.

Manifold is cracked...

Ton of little things.

 

[cruisermatt]

Have you tried air impact yet? If you're not getting anywhere and it feels as if you are going to start rounding the head of the plug STOP IMMEDIATELY.

Make sure you are using a 6-point socket as opposed to a 12 point as well.

I'd order 12 or so (In your case very, very many because you have, what, 5 cruisers?) of those fancy drain plugs with the recessed allen head.

Make sure you reassemble with the proper crush gasket material, aluminum for the transfer case and steel for the axles and transmission.

I learned all of these the hard way with a split-case's fill plug on my garage floor. Steel gasket, and COMPLETELY rounded head. Had to drill it out.

 

[Delancy]

Have you tried air impact yet?

No. Don't own pneumatic tools, yet.

I've worked with spud bars and high grade bolt assemblies the majority of my life and impacts percussive force does work in some instances, but I'd bet cash money there's no impact commonly found that can come close to the shear brutality of my big ass and a 2' cheater.

That bolt is fused....

If you're not getting anywhere and it feels as if you are going to start rounding the head of the plug STOP IMMEDIATELY.

It was rounded before I started and now lays claim to a snap on socket that's permanently affixed to it.

I'd order 12 or so (In your case very, very many because you have, what, 5 cruisers?) of those fancy drain plugs with the recessed allen head.

I keep a supply, that's dwindled now, because that's what running on the 40, too.

I swap them out periodically, because I hate rusty nuts!!

Now, as to the Cruiser count, there's a paradoxical posing that must be quantified first.

What constitutes a vehicle to a degree that it can be a measurable Cruiser?

Title with VIN tags?

Titled frame?

Does the frame have to roll?

Drivetrain?

Is a complete body, with no title or chassis measurable?

Does it have to start and drive?

This is usually the point that
Mrs. D's patience wears thin, as she usually chooses the "start and drive" option, in which case I currently have two.

 

[Delancy]

Tired of carb....

Thinking idle is too low, but that still doesn't explain the flat spot from no throttle to an increase, but done for the day.

Replaced PCV with one in the stash, along with radiator cap and claiming that the victory for the day, even though it's not accurate for the year.

Small things, but did adhere to the self imposed "drive it every day" mandate and when she's up and accelerating, it feels like something's gotten into her.

Very smooth and a phenomenal change in the power department.

 

[DSRTRDR]

No. Don't own pneumatic tools, yet.

I've worked with spud bars and high grade bolt assemblies the majority of my life and impacts percussive force does work in some instances, but I'd bet cash money there's no impact commonly found that can come close to the shear brutality of my big ass and a 2' cheater.

That bolt is fused....



It was rounded before I started and now lays claim to a snap on socket that's permanently affixed to it.



I keep a supply, that's dwindled now, because that's what running on the 40, too.

View attachment 1078336

View attachment 1078337

I swap them out periodically, because I hate rusty nuts!!

Now, as to the Cruiser count, there's a paradoxical posing that must be quantified first.

What constitutes a vehicle to a degree that it can be a measurable Cruiser?

Title with VIN tags?

Titled frame?

Does the frame have to roll?

Drivetrain?

Is a complete body, with no title or chassis measurable?

Does it have to start and drive?

This is usually the point that
Mrs. D's patience wears thin, as she usually chooses the "start and drive" option, in which case I currently have two.

I am with Ms. D: it has to run - unless it's a LX450

 

[micruz60]

Tenacious D !!

 

[Racer65]

Why not the TC, you ask?

Because the socket that's now permanently affixed to the drain plug, two broke ratchets and an 24" cheater can't get the damn thing loose.

Fought every damn one of 'em, even the oil filter, but the TC drain is not coming out.

I had gone through exactly this fight. I struggled for a good part of the afternoon before giving up and taking it to the dealer. They worked on it for quite a while, and finally they loosened it. I asked him what did the trick; they said they applied heat.

 

[Racer65]

Regarding the vacuum leak, do you hear an exhaust leak noise upon acceleration? If so, check out my thread on the EGR pipe gasket. That damn gasket is right under the intake manifold, and it's disintegrated on every 40. You will lose some vacuum if that gasket isn't attended to.

 

[Delancy]

I am with Ms. D: it has to run - unless it's a LX450

She seems to have forgotten about THAT one or has been confused by the other two that were liquidated.

Tenacious D !!

Girls, the girls they love me....

they said they applied heat.

When I drop it, plan to try the blue flame wrench.

Regarding the vacuum leak, do you hear an exhaust leak noise upon acceleration?

Hard to hear anything over the sucking sound of the K&N, but I'm now convinced the intake manifold is to blame.

I didn't pick up on it in the original pics from Allan, but the crack is evident in them.

Mine from Saturday.

Can't confirm with an certainty, but think a leak at the manifold gasket, too.

The airfilter base won't seal and have yet to source the air cleaner can brackets, so hunting the U.S.cleaner assembly, if anyone has.

Adjusted idle and it doesn't stumble/hesitate as badly, but still an issue, one I don't think can be resolved until the manifold crack is addressed........so.......

 

[Delancy]

Picked up a non-US head from Alberto.

He's in OH and was already headed to Jim's on Saturday, so dropped off for the standard head job, with the exception of the shave being limited to .10 to remove the shipping scars.

Jim's also machining manifolds, so they won't require more than a single OE gasket.

On the hunt for 60 big cap, coil/igniter and side cover, too. Ignition is hacked, side cover leaks, dizzy needs to be recurved, so seems an ideal time to address.

If anyone knows where to find, I'm all eyes.

Until all is received, I don't know what I can do to improve how it's running, but fully intend to continue driving, so have to figure out something.

 

[AlbertoSD]

That said, talked to him last week and my friend, Alberto, is dropping off a NOS non-US head for Jim to do dark and mysterious things to, along with matching manis up, so maybe a call is an option, if all else fails.

That Alberto guy, I've heard that he talks a little funny sometimes.

Picked up a non-US head from Alberto.

He's in OH and was already headed to Jim's on Saturday, so dropped off for the standard head job, with the exception of the shave being limited to .10 to remove the shipping scars.

On the hunt for 60 big cap, coil/igniter and side cover, too. Ignition is hacked, side cover leaks, dizzy needs to be recurved, so seems an ideal time to address.

If anyone knows where to find, I'm all eyes.

Regarding the 60 big cap and misc. parts, have you asked Georg @orangefj45, he sometimes lists one for sale here and there. I am sure Georg might be able to hook you up.

Can't believe I haven't seen this thread before. I know this 40 will be spotless/perfect when you are done with it.

Keep up the good work, Chris!

-Alberto

 

[Delancy]

Regarding the 60 big cap and misc. parts, have you asked Georg @orangefj45

Haven't been able to get Georg on the phone to tell me how much I owe him for parts he's already shipped!

Bahahaha.

I should be talking to him today, going to ask about the dizzy and a preground 2F bell housing for the H55, an effort to minimize downtime when doing conversion.

I had talked to Georg about rebuilding the split case currently mated to H55, but a revelation and Jim Cs recent input may have changed that plan.

The H55/split came out of an early BJ4X and affords no oiler cup provisions.

Jim Cs post from yesterday:

Note that the bearing that is oiled by the cup is 5th gear on the shaft. When tranny is operating in 5th gear, the bearing doesn't spin, no need for lube. When operating in any other gear the bearing is spinning. The lower the gear, the faster the spin. If 5th is rarely used, no oiler is bad. If 5th is always used, oiler is less important.

So, the BF1A I have attached to the H55 has no oiler cup provisions......nor does the rebuilt/PC'd BF1A I bought for the pig, that wasn't used in favor of the case you gave me.

Begs the question:

If the current case doesn't have, the case I already have that's been rebuilt doesn't have, and it's not necessary, why rebuild this case?

Use the one I already have?

 

[onemanarmy]

just now catching up to this....you post in every Series forum, hard to keep up.

So you're putting a non-us spec carb on the 40? Why that over a desmog/rebuild of the carb that is on it now? ( a US Spec Aisin, correct?)

what is the plan for the non-us head? what are the differences?

and a 5 speed as well? split case with FJ60 rear drums/parking brake?

I may have missed all of it while scamming, so I apologize. Awesome color though.

 

[Mace]

Have you hooked up a Vacuum gauge to the intake yet? That can tell you loads about the motor..

 

[Delancy]

So you're putting a non-us spec carb on the 40? Why that over a desmog/rebuild of the carb that is on it now? ( a US Spec Aisin, correct?)

'78 specific non-US carb.

My reasoning was the expense of purchasing the rebuilt carb from a reputable vendor paralleled that of rebuilding this carb, with no down time and had a core.

My goal is to not incapacitate the 40 for more than a few days. The two carbs I've had rebuilt took many months.

what is the plan for the non-us head? what are the differences?

To be honest, the head is the same (as far as I know) with the exception of the OE air rail plugs.

By part number, it only results non-US markets, but adopted the "non-US" nomenclature from a conversation with Jim, wherein he described as such.

and a 5 speed as well? split case with FJ60 rear drums/parking brake?

40 top plated H55 and (this is still up in the air) corresponding early split case with no oiler cup provisions.

The H55 is currently attached to an early split case, in OE form, and i already have a rebuilt, PC'd early split case I can't give away.

Have a FF40 rear axle with ebrake provisions slated for, all a package deal from Joe K, which included mounts and driveshafts, too.

Awesome color though.

It's iconic to the platform and era.
I like it, too.

Have you hooked up a Vacuum gauge to the intake yet? That can tell you loads about the motor..

Haven't yet, Jason.

Should've before ruling carb as the primary suspect, but too late for that and needed carb/rebuild anyway.

Still need to do compression test, and plan to soon. Hoping it checks out and the extent of any rebuilding stops at the top end.

Logged around 50 miles this afternoon and initially no issues (besides choke cable cobbling) until it warms up.

It's either sucking in air at the manifold/elsewhere unverified, or over fueling after slowing.

Runs great, but stumbles when accelerating from a stop.

 

[cruisermatt]

If the only differences in the head was the set of plugs what is the purpose of swapping heads? Those plugs are available at every Toyota dealer in the US. I just put a nice fresh set in my rebuilt motor.

 

[Delancy]

What is the purpose of swapping heads?

First and foremost, to provide a perfect marriage between head and manifolds, one requiring no more than an OE gasket between. Jim's proprietary methodology affords such and includes surfacing of both.

Secondly, the beauty of the logistics were ideal. Alberto is in OH, was headed to Jim C's, had the head in his possession and Jim had manifolds to mate to.

Jim's process is widely regarded as the standard, even amongst machine shops that don't cater to the Cruiser crowd, don't hang out on mud, validated by the shop that did the bastard Redheaded 2F, that also prepped new manifolds and head, along with following the balance of TLC Performances process to the letter.

Further, elimination of an unknown variable.
Evidence of stacked gaskets and additional spacers below the carb insulator, are indicative of workmanship that I don't care to invest further into. As far as I can tell, the reasoning for this spacer

Was to avoid swapping carb studs during the previous head swap, possibly de-Weberizing at the same time, since carb studs were too long to even nestle the carb on an OE insulator.

Add to that, the manifolds were reused without machining, necessitating a gasket stack

and, clearly (retrospectively stated) with a cracked intake.

All raise suspicion and I'd like to avoid any potential issues before they occur, in a "If you ain't got time to do it right the first time, when the hell will you ever find time to fix it." manner.

All the above, and that Alberto would've given me the head, seems affords the logic to answer your question..........but to come clean.

I have a problem, a bad problem, and I can't leave well enough alone, ESPECIALLY when the temptation beams, in an smoky-like aura "NLA", "NIB", "NOS" like signs on a red light district.

It does funny things to my brain that the vast majority do not understand, but find comfort in an immediate peer group that suffer from the same affliction, all rationalizing with a "gonna do it, do it right" mentality.

At this point, I'll ask that any mental and emotional support that can be asked of the community or of Cruiser karma be sent my way, that there be absolutely no questioning the condition of the cylinders once the head swap occurs, because, even with my eyes closed and gags tied around the mouths of the voices in my head, temptation is knocking gem half the world away, and I need all the well wishes to deny entry that can be awarded.

In this morning's email perusal, there were dark, unclear photos, along with an incomplete description of what I think is an NOS '77 2F short block.

 

[cruisermatt]

Got it, didn't realize there were engine parts swapped in the past, I assumed it was all original. I have quite the untrained eye to noticing carb/manifold/head differences besides the painfully obvious like a Weber or Holley.

Is the new head NOS?

There's also a NOS 3F short block on eBay which I'm sure you have seen which would power a 40 quite well. It is quite pricey however. Hell you could add the cost of a new H55f to my warmed-over 3FE rebuild parts/labor cost and it would be a little more.

That said I did buy 90% of my parts from Rock Auto