check out this recent thread
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/561579-88-62-wont-stay-running.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/561579-88-62-wont-stay-running.html
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check out this recent thread
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/561579-88-62-wont-stay-running.html
John - Not sure where you are or how rusty your truck is, but had this problem myself ... wiring harness to power the pump had corroded and was shorting out in the driver side rear quarter panel. You can access the wiring just behind the rear wheel underneath the truck. Grab a test light and see if you've got power to that point and go from there - MikeMy 62 stalled on me a few days ago coasted to a stop and she re started in a couple of cranks. During that same day it seemed like it wanted to die out and did a couple of times . The next day I replaced the fuel filter and it ran good fo about 30 min. The next day it wouldn't start . People told me that it was fuel pump or sock . So today I dropped the tank and bench tested the pump and it pumped fuel fine , the sock looked a little colored but the pump was in gas when i tested it and seem to work properly . I then attached the pump to my truck just to make sure it was getting power from the truck no such luck . I then tested the connection and found I'm not getting power to the fuel pump. Has anyone had this problem and what is the fix. Any suggestions would be grateful . Thanks John
could the FPR be the issue if my 62 takes more than 10 cranks to start unless already warm? or could it be that my fuel pump is on the verge of dying?
John, I solved a similar problem by cleaning my Cold Start Injector. It's a 10 min. easy fix & if you are careful/lucky you can reuse the CSI gasket. Just remove & clean w/carb cleaner.
John
I finally figured it out!
It was the fuel pressure regulator - it was failing closed, raising the fuel pressure, causing the fuel pump check valve to get stuck closed. It caused my first pump to "fail" (the check valve was permanently stuck closed but the pump itself was fine) and it caused my fuel pulsation dampener to blow and it caused my mpg to be horribly low (like 8 or 9 instead of the 12-16 or so I should get).
The truck would start ok cold because the lines and fuel cooled, fuel pressure went down, and the check valve opened. When the truck was warm the fuel pressure was still high - the truck would start at first with the fuel locked in the rail and lines, and then die when the pressure dropped because the check valve was stuck closed. Eventually it would open and she would start up and then run fine because fuel was flowing, keeping the valve open.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator ($91.93 from cruiserdan - thanks Dan!) yesterday and all the problems went away, the truck is "seat of the pants" faster, quieter, idles smoother, and the exhaust no longer stinks!
I highly recommend a fuel pressure regulator replacement for any 3FE with funny fuel supply problems - rough idle, running rich, poor mpg, starting problems, etc. It's a ten minute install - literally three bolts.
Thanks for your help, guys! I am SO happy to be going into winter with a reliable vehicle.
Just replaced my fpr and the engine has never run worse.
ok i have same problem so gonna replace the FPR. but mine also has the fuel gauge and temp rise and fall. also experiencing over heating. is this all the FPR? I'm dyeing from frustration here help please. does the fuel pressure and issue with the FPR cause over heating? Im getting close to the red and having to shut off after ten min of running.
This is where I bought mine. They sell used and new. I originally bought used but it was not in good shape. So I splurged and bought new. It seemed to fix my engine problems.the fuel returns to normal sometimes. also i can't find a FPR any suggestions?