3B diesel swap-Alternator wiring. (1 Viewer)

[Davebo]

Hello all, I've been looking for somebody with the same problem as me on here and can't find the same problem but I have swapped a 12V 3B diesel from a BJ60 into my 1980 FJ40. I'm just about to finally fire it up and I'd like to make sure of my alternator wiring before I do. I'm using the 12V harness from the FJ and wiring the engine to that. I realize that I'll have to run wires to the opposite side of the engine bay. Does anybody know how to wire the alternator plug? Like I say it is also 12V so I just need to know what colour wires from the alternator go where and what they are for. My truck is in a different location from here and I don't remember what colours the wires were but if anybody knows the configuration I would be very grateful. I'll be going there today and take a few pics and figure out the colours and can post them later but in the mean time if anybody knows the right destination for these wires it would be dandy Thanks, any help will be very appreciated.

 

[yotahed]

Is the alternator internal or external regulated? I have a diagram of wire positions for an internal 12V. Not sure on the FJ40 harness though.

 

[Davebo]

It is an internal regulator. I'm not completely sure what year 60 it came from but I believe that its either '83 or '84. I didn't get a chance to get over there yesterday but I am going today and can get a better perspective. That diagram would be awesome though if you could share it with me. Thanks, Dave.

 

[yotahed]

Sure I'll find it tonight. Your 40 is externally regulated correct?. There should be a few guys that have done that conversion on here.. Or you could probably just start over and run new wires for the sense, ignition, and alt light. Not that hard really and then you know for sure she's good to go.

 

[Davebo]

No, my 1980 FJ40 had an internal regulator also. This is where I'm confused. My 40 has an amp gauge only. No light, no volt gauge. I take it from everything that I've read that the 60 series had a charge light and a volt gauge? Maybe I won't be able to run my amp gauge? Also does the IGN terminal take power from the vehicle ignition switch to excite the alternator to charge? These are my questions I guess. Any help would again be very appreciated.

 

[yotahed]

Internal reg definitely makes it easier.
Ign is exactly as you say. Powers up the alt via switched power/key power.
I'm sure you could rig it up to keep your ammeter. Lot of older cars have them. Maybe even run both an amp and volt.

I think an ammeter measures from two points, but I've never hooked one up.

 

[yotahed]

Here's the diagram i sketched up when I did my swap a few years back. Shown from the open end with the terminals showing.

 

[bj40green]

Does this help?

Rudi

 

[Davebo]

OK, thanks very much for that, that sure takes some of the guess work out. After thinking about it, I'm wondering if my ammeter is wired internally through the wiring harness and if I may be able to just get away with wiring the IGN terminal only? I'm thinking that I might run an aftermarket volt meter anyway. I guess what I need to know is if the alternator will start and run and charge without the L & S terminals being hooked to anything? Thanks again. I always find out what I need to know on here.

 

[bj40green]

OK, thanks very much for that, that sure takes some of the guess work out. After thinking about it, I'm wondering if my ammeter is wired internally through the wiring harness and if I may be able to just get away with wiring the IGN terminal only? I'm thinking that I might run an aftermarket volt meter anyway. I guess what I need to know is if the alternator will start and run and charge without the L & S terminals being hooked to anything? Thanks again. I always find out what I need to know on here.

The Ammeter is part of the harness wiring. Don't change that.
IGN = Live when the key is in the "on" position.
S = Sense. It "looks" at the voltage and is necessary for correct functioning. Must be hooked up to the battery after the fusible link.
L = Lamp. You don't need this.

Rudi

 

[Davebo]

Oh yeah man. That's right on. Perfect. I'm glad I came here before I fired her up. I'll get that all wired and a few more connections and then I'll be good to go. That is awesome. I so much appreciate this. Thank you very very much, Dave.

 

[fjbj40]

You may need to install the "charge lamp relay" and a charge lamp.

That was what I did anyways, the alt would only work for me that way. Now I did not try what BJ40green suggested. He is pretty smart on the wiring aspect of things!

I like the idea of the charge lamp, as it tells you instantly with a visual warning that you are not charging.

Cheers,
Daryl

 

[bj40green]

AFAIK...... you do need a charge lamp or a 82 ohm 5 Watt resistor on GM CS series alternators to get a reliable output.
I'm not 100% sure if a charge lamp/relay is a must on Toyota (Nippon Denso) alternators.

Rudi

 

[fjbj40]

Mine is a BJ60 IR alternator.

 

[bj40green]

Mine is a BJ60 IR alternator.

Do you have IGN, L and S terminal?

or just IGN and L? (no S terminal)

Both models were used in the 60 series.

Rudi

 

[jbender]

Sort of off topic but I just took the cover off the internal regulator on my 82 bj60. I was getting 18V on a 12V system. I cleaned up the contacts on the regulator and brush holder and put it back together and now I get 12v from the B terminal. However, when I put the cover back on the regulator there was sparking to the cover. I put my voltmeter on it and off the casing of the regulator was reading 12V. Where is the ground on this type of regulator? Does it come off the brush holder?

 

[bj40green]

The housing is ground. The VR get his ground when you put the cover back in place and tighten the nut.

Rudi

 

[fjbj40]

Do you have IGN, L and S terminal?
View attachment 897571


or just IGN and L? (no S terminal)
View attachment 897572

Both models were used in the 60 series.

Rudi

Rudi, I have the IGN, L and S terminal.

I wired it up like the last diagram you posted, 12 volt type. That was the exact diagram I used to wire it. I installed a fuse inline to the charge lamp relay from the ignition relay. The original charge fuse is utilized as shown in the diagram.

It was an "after the fact" modification that is sort of a stand alone, in other words not integrated into the harness a la factory style.

It was explained to me that you had to use the charge lamp relay and lamp because the alternator gets its ground through the charge lamp relay.

Daryl

 

[bj40green]

It was explained to me that you had to use the charge lamp relay and lamp because the alternator gets its ground through the charge lamp relay.

Daryl

Hi Daryl,

I don't see the logic in this explanation. If that statement is valid than the full charge current (negative side) would go through the relay. No way!
The alternator is internally grounded to it's housing.
When the alternator is not charging the L terminal on the alternator is equal to ground, the charge warning relay kicks in and that relay grounds the charge warning light and the bulb lights up.

Anyway, if it works, it works.

Rudi

 

[fjbj40]

I agree with you! Maybe it was something to do with the regulator .?

Anyways I did what I was told and it charged So I was happy.

Regards,
Daryl