3.0 swap for a 22RE (1 Viewer)

[Steve Harris]

How can I pull 190hp out of my 3.0? If I can do that without spending a ton of money, I would rather that be the route I go. Plus I wouldn't have to explain to much to the wife. Any info on how to get more power out of the 3.0 would help alot.
Thanks in advance

 

[DirtyHarry]

What Brian was referring to was the stock horsepower of the 3.4L, not the 3.0L. I am sure that he will correct me if I am wrong, but there is no easy way to get a lot more power out of the 3.0L. BKG had one that he added intake, ported heads, headers, and exhaust to and it wasn't much of an improvement for the money.

 

[Steve Harris]

How much money are we talking for a complete 3.4 swap? I would love to have that power in my truck. My brothers 98 taco has well over 200,000 miles and still pulls strong.

 

[Tigerstripe40]

How much money are we talking for a complete 3.4 swap? I would love to have that power in my truck. My brothers 98 taco has well over 200,000 miles and still pulls strong.

Alot depends on how you do the swap.
I have priced it out. This is with me doing all of the work.

ORS full install kit: $1700
3.4 5VZ with 50k miles $1100 (deal includes all parts from the donor I will need for the swap)
Exhaust cross over pipe: $250 (this is running from the stock exhaust manifold to the stock cat)
Cluch kit: $300
Body lift: $200

This should give a good idea of how much you will spend.
However, if you go the header route, figure in another $1000

 

[bkg]

How much money are we talking for a complete 3.4 swap? I would love to have that power in my truck. My brothers 98 taco has well over 200,000 miles and still pulls strong.

The ORS kit is the easiest, but NOT the cheapest. A friend of mine found a low mileage engine and tranny for $500 and completed the entire swap for under $2K w/ supercharger. He did the wiring himself with great success.

As for getting more hp out of the 3.0, it *IS* possible, but it's more spendy than the 3.4. Tim @DOA Racing engines gets $10K for a 200HP 3.0 long block. Others have gotten 180-200 HP with ported heads, headers, intake, modified injection, throttle body and ported intake manifold; this was a full rebuild and the person had connections.

Harry is correct; I had a 94 4Runner (loved that truck) with DOA heads, K&N intake, free-flow exhaust, Hotter ignition. The engine ran VERY smooth and pulled very well - but only above 3500K RPMS. Did I like the mods? YES! Were the heads worth the $2500 I had into them (with install @ a dealer due to HG failure, which I ended up having to pay for)? NO!

The truck gets about 14mpg w/ 4.88's and 33" tires, according to the new owner.

My current 88 4Runner has intake, throttle body, headers, exhaust - It's still a dog. Better than stock, but a dog. My friends 89 has new (stock) heads on it and pulls like a V8 - it makes no sense.

I've owned 4 3.0's, 5 3.4's.. The 3.0 is a MUCH smoother engine, but I'll take a 3.4 any day. I will be doing this swap on my 88 sometime in the future.

 

[lunyou]

What do you mean by Smoother?? Ive had both and am curious what you are meaning. Im not argueing though

lunyou

 

[bkg]

What do you mean by Smoother?? Ive had both and am curious what you are meaning. Im not argueing though

lunyou

I've always felt the 3.0 vibrates less than any other engine on the market. Every 3.4 I've ever owned has had more vibrations than any 3.0 I've owned, especially at 4-5K rpms.

 

[lunyou]

oh okay. I know what you are talking about.

lunyou

 

[Red_Chili]

Well, as the proud owner of a 1987 5VZ-FE 4Runner using a FRORF crossmember (not known for vibe isolation), I would take issue with the vibration observation. Smooth as silk; smoother than the 22RE that used to live there. It is a fine, clean, if somewhat expensive conversion. Mike at ORS did the work, and really set the bar on the quality of the fab needed. He took longer than I had wished, and it cost more than I estimated. Fair enough, the 22RE conversion was EXTREMELY detailed and involved some R&D. And I am picky; my truck is NOT purpose-built, but made for all around use including road trips and expedition-type wheeling.

Long after the final check was written the pleasures of the conversion will be enjoyed.

In my case, I elected to use an R151 from a fairly trashed '86 turbo truck and rebuilt it myself. Were I to do it over, going with the 3.4's R150 and a Marlin tcase plate would be an equally good (if not incrementally better) way to go. The 22RE/R151 drivetrain must be moved forward about 3in. or so, with the associated driveshaft shortening/lengthening.

The 3.0 to 3.4 conversion is much easier and has MUCH to commend it. Forget downsizing to a 2.4. You'll hate it in comparison and it will be every bit as much work.

 

[Steve Harris]

Thanks for all the info. I'll take it all in, and then I'll talk to the boss.

 

[bkg]

Well, as the proud owner of a 1987 5VZ-FE 4Runner using a FRORF crossmember (not known for vibe isolation), I would take issue with the vibration observation. Smooth as silk; smoother than the 22RE that used to live there. .

don't get me wrong, Bill. I love the 3.4 and it's much smoother than most engines out there. But the ones that I've owned could not hold a candle to the 3.0 in my 94 4Runner - that thing was the smoothest engine I've ever owned. So it's definitely not a criticism or something to worry about...

 

[Red_Chili]

Hey, no worries... I just disagree!
I am comparing my 1990 and 1989 3.0's (or my memory of them, at least ) with the Chili and its engine swap...