2L-T Cold Start issues (1 Viewer)

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Oct 2, 2015
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forum.ih8mud.com
I recently purchased a 1989 70 series with a 2L-T in it.

It recently started acting up on cold starts, more so if it has been sitting a few days.
Is there an adjustment on the injector pump or anywhere else that will aid in a more
reliable start when the engine is cold?

She starts up just fine, when the engine is warm.
However, when cold, it may take up to 10 cranks of up to 5 seconds each or so to get her turned over.

Yesterday, I had to resort to brake fluid through the air filter housing to get her to turn over.
(I am assuming, I should not be pumping the gas pedal during any start sequence)

If anyone has any clues, please let me know.
Thanks.
Don
 
hows your battery and cables? any corrosion? hows the glow system?

Las Vegas won't ever hit any temperatures cold enough that should cause issues
 
The Battery has 14 volts at first, but drops off after each start attempt.

Cables appear to be in good shape.

My gut tells me it is not getting the correct amount of fuel. Either too rich or too lean.

Glows plus appear new, but will change them for peace of mind.

Any other ideas what may cause this?
 
are you double glowing? 9 times out of ten if it starts when warm but struggles when cold, its the glow plugs. I had the same issue with my 1hz. THere are more than a few 'how tos' on testing them with a multimeter (resistance method). I didnt have to remove them to test.
 
Will do the glow plug test. Should it fail the test, what are the recommended plugs for the 2L-T? Bosch or Toyota or other brand?
 
one thing i learned when researching was the glow time period was longer than the preheat light would stay lit. I started watching my volt meter that would dip during the glow period and an audible tick followed by the volt meter moving a few mm indicated the glow period was over. About 20 seconds if its cold out. I ordered toyota
 
Andrew, I will give her 20 seconds from now on. I can watch my voltmeter dip as the plugs heat up.
Speaking of that gauge (since it looks "dual" gauge...to the left is the oil pressure gauge. After the warm up period,
my oil pressure it pegged. I changed the oil pressure sender and it is still pegged. Is that normal on 2L engines?
Or is the gauge just probably old & just not very accurate any more.
 
Hmm, someone more seasoned than I will have to chime in on that. I seem to remember seeing a few threads here and on OZ forum about that. Ill see if i can dig it up
 
(I am assuming, I should not be pumping the gas pedal during any start sequence)

If anyone has any clues, please let me know.
Thanks.
Don

I can't speak to what the 2L-T manual says but my 3B owners manual says to start the truck with the pedal fully depressed for a cold start.
 
Some engines like a little extra fuel at start up.
So either add it with your foot or increase fuel at the pump.
I would adjust the pump for winter and summer with the screw. Adding fuel with engine running will increase your RPMs, so adjust idle accordingly.
Turn 1/8 to 1/4 turns till satisfied, best to mark your settings in case you screw up.
This "Smoke Screw/Full Load Screw should have a locking outer cap of 14mm.
pump.jpg
 
Last edited:
JT & Squash, Thanks for the replies and detailed diagram.
I will get this sorted in no small part by fellow Cruizer owners like yourselves!
Thanks again!
 
sounds to me like your glow plugs aren't lighting. that could be a number of things all of which are an easy fix. Please don't ever use brake/carb cleaner/starting fluid to start your engine. That is very bad. Messing with pump adjustments would be the last place I would go on a starting issue. Hopefully you got it all sorted out by now.
 

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