2F Rebuild - First Timer (2 Viewers)

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So went to a few machine shops the other day to meet and get quotes.

Two people had recommended a shop that I visited and was satisfied by his quality and workmanship.

The first shop I visited
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And the second shop that I will work at

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It turned out that both the shops I visited are actually run by brothers. How random is that coz they are across town from each other.

Only realized when I entered the office to talk money that I realized when I saw the same picture of their founder hanging on the wall and it clicked.

What even funnier is that the second quote was double the first : ). So I went with the more expensive shop.

It's gonna cost me around 320 usd to do everything. Machine the cylinders which appear to have already been sleeved and to install new values and bearings on all the shafts and clean up and machine the crank shaft a little.

This is what he told me to get from toyota.

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So went along and ordered all the parts which should arrive on Saturday. Will go collect them and drop them off to the machine shop.

Will update once I have all the parts.

The new push rods will arrive a day or two later as they are coming from the capital.

Till then.
 
Glad for your usual support : )
 
will valve stem seals come in the engine gasket set or will you need to add them to your parts list?


Thanks for the input fjc-man. The gasket kit comes with them.

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So sorted thanks.

Picked up and delivered everything that the machinist needed to do his job. Pistons, rings, bearings and valves.

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Was told it should all be ready tomorrow at 6 pm.

So will bring her home tomorrow to continue the build.

Can't wait.
 
The engine will be machined and built in 3 days?! That is insane turnaround time, although I told my machine shop no rush, my engine's machining took 8 months here in the US.
 
The engine will be machined and built in 3 days?! That is insane turnaround time, although I told my machine shop no rush, my engine's machining took 8 months here in the US.


Hahaha Cruisermatt,

The machine shop needs between 8 to 12 hours of work assuming he started this afternoon when I dropped the parts to when I pick them up at 6 pm tomorrow.

That's all these guys do. They have like 8 guys working there, each with a specific job to do so I guess they work effectively.

I had set myself the end of the month to have it all back together. So no rush.

If had not gotten busy the last few days I would have closed it up by now.
 
Very cool thread. Good to see no matter the differences in cultures we are all the same in many ways.

By the way your workspace is excellent, especially the tiled floor, too bad we can't have outdoor spaces where I live because of the humidity.
 
Very cool thread. Good to see no matter the differences in cultures we are all the same in many ways.

By the way your workspace is excellent, especially the tiled floor, too bad we can't have outdoor spaces where I live because of the humidity.

That's the main problem here also is the humidity. But it being 'winter' now it very dry. Well dry enough to chap lips and dry tobacco.
 
How's the engine rebuild progressing?

So far so good 78fj40mg

Waiting for it to arrive from the machine shop. Not feeling to well so sent the resident and the apprentice to collect it.

Should have a nice update tomorrow if all goes to plan.
 
Latest update.

Got the things back last night but the darkness, mosquitoes and empty stomach didn't have me in the mood.

Got up early today to go through what steps we needed to do.

First thing was to remove these caps on the cooling system. Some looked fine and some looked like they had rusted through. Looking on the inside they all had a thick layer of rust on them.

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The cylinder head back with new valves and looking good.

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The block needed to be dismantled and cleaned.
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The machine shop managed to break the oil dip stick collar.

How the hell do you remove that small portion inside. We tried everything.
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We cleaned the block and head cylinders and oil channels with petrol and air. We then washed it with water and soap then rinsed it and dried it with air before slapping engine oil on all internal parts to keep it lubricated till we get the paint done. I'm sure we will clean it a few more times before assembly.

washing the cooling channels

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All wrapped up and going inside for the night
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Next steps are to paint the block and head. Get the oil pan sand blasted and painted along with a few other things that need some TLC.

And what's the best way to get rid of all the rust inside the cooling channels ?

That's it for now.
 
Cleaning the block interior could be achieved by using a muriatic acid, then flush well. Disclaimer: I've never done this, but there is a thread...
forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dissolve-zddp-zinc-oil-additive.833086/
 
Cleaning the block interior could be achieved by using a muriatic acid, then flush well. Disclaimer: I've never done this, but there is a thread...
forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dissolve-zddp-zinc-oil-additive.833086/

Thanks
I wanted to do it before I put her back together. If I don't find a solution I'll do that after its in the truck.
 
Now is the time to properly clean that block or risk overheating issues later - especially in your location . You can lay it on it's side and plug off any holes necessary and use the acid to clean it . Also , it's a good idea to run a good stiff piece of wire along the bottom of the block in the cooling passages anywhere you can reach - that is where all the junk ends up and possibly any casting sand from making it . Using acid after the engine is rebuilt is not a good idea - you risk damaging the water pump seals , thermostat and radiator unless the acid is thinned pretty good . Maybe JimC or one of the other's that do rebuilds on these will chime in with their fixes and suggestions ...
Sarge
 
Now is the time to properly clean that block or risk overheating issues later - especially in your location . You can lay it on it's side and plug off any holes necessary and use the acid to clean it . Also , it's a good idea to run a good stiff piece of wire along the bottom of the block in the cooling passages anywhere you can reach - that is where all the junk ends up and possibly any casting sand from making it . Using acid after the engine is rebuilt is not a good idea - you risk damaging the water pump seals , thermostat and radiator unless the acid is thinned pretty good . Maybe JimC or one of the other's that do rebuilds on these will chime in with their fixes and suggestions ...
Sarge


Noted thanks.

Will look into the acid.
As for the wire your correct the amount of s***e that came out was plenty.
 
Latest update.

Got as much rust as possible off the block but didn't manage to get any acid.

The block and head are ready for paint.

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Will get a new oil pan. The current one is is a bit banged up.

Will mix the paint and spray it tomorrow morning so it can dry in the midday heat.

It's been a long day.
 
there are 2 bolts on the bottom rim of the block behind the oil cooler. they secure the oil pump mounting boss to the inside rim of the block. this block was aligned at factory to allow the diz shaft to enter/exit as need be. if you break those bolts loose, you will have to realign the mounting block or you will not be able to install or remove your diz...have the oil gally plug on the head by the #4 spark plug get drilled out, tapped and plugged with a threaded plug...


Hi LAMBCRUSHER

Is this the oil falls plug you mentioned ?

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Looks nice and sealed. Would rather leave it alone. Would I ever need to drain it from there ? Or open it at all ?

Thanks
 

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