2F Engine Oil (2 Viewers)

[Cruiserdrew]

The M1 15w50 is good stuff, but their numbers can not be correct if it is indeed, as listed, an SN/SM rated oil. In fact VOI's of the stuff usually list the zddp levels as significantly lower. API criterion from SM rated oils is no more than 1200 ppm SN (as listed for 15w50) is 900 ppm zddp.

I wouldn't trust it in my 2F.

But the SN limits of 600/800 ppm do not apply to oils other than 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30. Once out of those grades the oil manufacturing companies can use what they like.

 

[Spike Strip]

But the SN limits of 600/800 ppm do not apply to oils other than 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30. Once out of those grades the oil manufacturing companies can use what they like.

I'd never read that before, but looking at the API guidelines, I see you're right. That's good to know, thank you... However, 1300 ppm zddp really isn't enough, particularly for long drain intervals. But if you're dumping it at 5K, that's prolly ok. As stated earlier, the add wears quickly.

Anyway, I think we're just splitting hairs, here and any oil with levels above 1200ppm and other EP additives should be fine as long as the OCIs are low.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Anybody just running the straight rotella with no additive?

 

[fjfodee]

Good info!

 

[36J594]

I know I’m reviving an old thread here, but I have recently changed from Rotella 15w40 to Valvoline VR1 20w50 and both my ‘70 FJ40 (F155) and my ‘88 FJ62 (3F-E) seem happier.

 

[Ronthebiker]

I know I’m reviving an old thread here, blATW q ut I have recently changed from Rotella 15w40 to Valvoline VR1 20w50 and both my ‘70 FJ40 (F155) and my ‘88 FJ62 (3F-E) seems happier.

I literally was about to put VR1 in my 2f yesterday but I found out it’s only rated for 3,000 miles max. It’s good oil but from what i understand it’s more intended to go in a performance car where the oil would be changed on a much more regular basis (i.e. after ever weekend or 2 at the track) so just be aware of that.

 

[Spike Strip]

Not reading back thru the whole thread, but anything marketed as 'Racing Oil' generally does not have the additives for long-term use. It's meant to be used hard for a short period, then drained. 3K miles would really be pushing it. Plus, the stuff is expensive. However, I haven't looked at VR1 in quite a while so formulation may have changed.

Better oils out there for your flat-tappet antique for same money.

 

[Ronthebiker]

Not reading back thru the whole thread, but anything marketed as 'Racing Oil' generally does not have the additives for long-term use. It's meant to be used hard for a short period, then drained. 3K miles would really be pushing it. Plus, the stuff is expensive. However, I haven't looked at VR1 in quite a while so formulation may have changed.

Better oils out there for your flat-tappet antique for same money.

The price here in AZ was only about $3 more then Castrol for 5qt but I agree with you it’s just not made for long term use. I personally have been running Castrol GTX 20W-50 with Risoline ZDDP additive for the past 2 years or so and my engine seems happy and I can get Castrol GTX at any Wally World I find myself at in the country unlike VR1 which is harder to find.

 

[Spike Strip]

I used to run the Gastrol Diesel 15w-40 which was perfect for old gasser engines, but the bastids changed the formula and removed a lot of the zddp for smog reason (just for ****ing Kalif!)

I use Lucas now, Hot Rod stuff cuz I can get it for a reasonable price on Amazon. I have used zddp additive and still have some, but not convinced it's as good already in the mix stuff.

Castrol GTX has about 1200 ppm, so add accordingly.

Happy trails to you!

 

[AutaviaFJ40]

I just bought a case of Amsoil Z-ROD 20W-50 Synthetic...plan on switching next week, will see if she likes it.

"A high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage."

 

[GA Architect]

If you like to read about oil.... > click here <

 

[AutaviaFJ40]

If you like to read about oil.... > click here <

Interesting read...I feel a good bit better about my choice of oil now.

 

[David70FJ40]

This is my choice after reading the oil threads here. Reasonably priced, purchased from Summit.

 

[Ronthebiker]

My opinion is that modern oils are significantly better lubricants then the oil that was used when our trucks were designed regardless of additives being taken out or added due to emmesions. Running the right weight oil is probably the only thing that will make a noticeable difference in the performance/life of a 40-50 year old tractor engine. It would be very interesting to do the same test comparing new oil to oil from the 60’s-70’s. The only thing new oil may be lacking is some zinc and maybe a few small things here and there but IMO any decent oil now as long as it’s the right weight is gonna be just fine in a Land Cruiser. Just pick something you like and drive.

 

[36J594]

From the 1988 owner’s manual.