2F engine for F engine swap (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 16, 2007
Threads
13
Messages
57
I currently have an F engine in my FJ40. I plan on replacing it with a 2F. Is their any difference on the frames where these motors bolt in? Basically, am I going to have to do any modifications to get the 2F in place or will it simply bolt in?

Secondly, I have located a 2F engine, but it is in a 1983 FJ60. Is this the same motor thats in the FJ40? I've been told the block is bigger in the FJ60s. Is this true?

Can anyone shed any light on this engine swap?
 
Welcome.


I currently have an F engine in my FJ40. I plan on replacing it with a 2F. Is their any difference on the frames where these motors bolt in?


No.



Basically, am I going to have to do any modifications to get the 2F in place or will it simply bolt in?


The F engine mounts will not bolt up to the 2F unless you drill them out, as the 2F engine uses larger bolts to secure the engine mounts to the block. If you either get 40 series front engine mounts that bolt to the engine from a 2F, or modify your old ones, you will be fine.



Secondly, I have located a 2F engine, but it is in a 1983 FJ60. Is this the same motor thats in the FJ40?


Effectively, yes, however, it will have 60 series goodies bolted to it, and you will need to use your F engine flywheel housing.

I've been told the block is bigger in the FJ60s. Is this true?

No, this is a not true.

Can anyone shed any light on this engine swap?

Been talked about a bunch out here bud. Should not be too difficult to find a pile of previous threads on this exact topic...




:beer:
 
I found a 2f that has been pulled for $500 or I can buy a complete 1983 FJ60 for $500 and pay shipping which would bring the cost for the 60 to around $800. Is there much demand for 60 parts? Any suggestions on the best approach to take? What is the downside to having the 60's goodies attached?
 
That depends on what kind of shape the 60 is in and how many good parts are on it.
 
Where are you located? I have access to a 2F out of a 78 in Northeast PA if that floats your boat.


Tripper
 
I'm in Chattanooga, TN. PA would be a little far to travel. The 60 has several good parts including doors, seats, axles, tranny, and some more.
 
What kind of shape is the 60 in?? I may be interested in the body and axles.............
I'm close too.....
:beer::beer::beer:
 
It was rolled on the drivers side so there is some body damage. The passenger doors, hood look good. I believe there was some rust on the back side.
 
The 60 axles will fetch an easy $300, so that makes up your difference. How do the two motors compare??
 
2F

I got a 2F from PA to Florida for $250 so shipping may not be as bad as you think

some thing to consider

your 1F will have a 3 finger clutch you can switch to a diaphragm style if you swap all the parts--bellhousing, fork, throwout hub and retainers and bearing etc. ---details in my build "71 FJ Ugly Betty" you can do a search on the 40 forum for it.

all brand new toy OEM parts for this plus a rear main seal was around 400 bucks


Are you keeping a 3 speed? or going with a 4 speed?

4 speed will mate to a three speed transfer with a kit
or you can use the 4speed and 4 speed xfer but then you need driveshafts to suit

this is a good time to put on a transfer case saver and a tranfer case to transmission bypass line, both inexpensive mod

make sure you get everything you can with your 2f---all the pulleys, steering mounts, altenator mounts etc


You can adapt a newer 2f ignition to your older FJ and get rid of the points distrib with a little simple wiring


I am sure there is more but all I can think of for now

check out some of the FAQs--good stuff, and coolermans site and many others are a good reference.

For desmog there is a FAQ and Jim C (Fj40Jim) or Mark A rebuild the carbs, desmog em and recurve the distributors. For ops check purposes I was able to start mine with the air rail and smog valves removed and alll the vacuum lines plugged.

The advice I got saved me a lot of time figuring things out on my own
 
I'm already running a 4speed. Thanks for all the great info. Keep it coming, I'll need all the help I can get.
 
radiator

keep the old f engine around if you have room to scrounge parts of it for bracket fab etc.

Keep the points distrib and coil as trail spares

You may want to look into water pump pulley fan config

some folks have had clearance issues and have had to oval out the the rad mounts to clearance or some have used different combos of fans etc.


I put the 1F water pump and fan on for now and am hoping to put the original rad on until I can get that all sorted out for mine

2F water pump had an outlet for the oil cooler but I did not have a 2F pulley and my 1F pulley would not fit on the 2F pump:cheers:
 
WOW, yesterday I stripped out and disassembled my 1F to do a rebuild. When I was done I called Gary at Mudracks to ask for a recommendation on having the machine work done on my engine. Long story short today, I stripped and disassembled a 2F that I bought yesterday from Gary at Mudracks. I need to figure all the parts I need to swap and procure for the install.
After disassembling the 2 engines, I really see the difference in the engines. The oil line on the 1F is real funky. I see why there is so much discussion about benefits of rebuilding the 2F. Rebuild cost of each is about the same so why not rebuild the 2F and get the added benefits of the newer engine.

Jdduncan, good luck with your choices. btw, i paid $350 for the 2F engine without pully. I picked it up yesterday, Mudracks is only aobut 30 miles from my house.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom