2F-E in Africa - Lots of questions (1 Viewer)

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Advice needed .

Injector woes :

I imported 12 injectors .
Out of that :
5 has a broken clip ( a small piece of plastic holding the harness plug in place )

5 has cracks in the pintle cap.

I need to decide what is more important - having the pintle cap complete or having the plastic barb that keeps the harness in place .
Unfortunately the parts are not easy to find locally and I do not really want to send it back to the US for rebuild .
 
Still waiting for the injectors to be returned from the company that tests them .

Common issue is the pintle wear - see the right one where the pintle cap is deteriorated . Also there should be a little barb on the attachment that is broken off on most - it helps the plug to clip in place .

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In the mean time the "plumbing" for the fuel pump and surge tank was finished - again an excellent job done by my mechanic : JB Auto in Cape Town

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FINALLY: Injectors were serviced and are in .
Intake manifold cleaned - 20 years of use make them pretty dirty inside.

The aftermarket ecu harness is being mated to the engine currently . Fortunately getting the accelarator cable to work was the easiest to do as it comes from the correct side ( being right hand steer car )
Hope to have it running next week and then a dyno-tune to be done .

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She's alive !!

Once we ensured the fuel rail was filled with petrol and the batteries were strong again , we turned the key and she fired up immediately .
After warm she does not idle well and the ECU appears to be a bit confused . I thus called the guy who put the harness together and he explained that the ECU was loaded with a generic map for a Toyota straight six and it does need to be dyno-tuned now . ( makes sense )
It will not be done immediately as I am swopping the semi for full floater with ARB while it is in the shop . So once that is in I may have to tow it to the dyno for proper mapping .
 
Just look at this very professional installation :

Used 1FZ-FE air intake hose as the 3F-E hose has AFM that we do not use .

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The air temp sensor needed to be fitted and used a rivnut .
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Rivnut too long and trimmed back to expose the sensor
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Rivnut in position
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Supporting bracket for the Harness and Map sensor / vacuum guage tubes
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Very happy customer - it looks like it came from the factory like that :clap:
 
First and hopefully the last time my car gets transported like this - and it aint even broke

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Being take to the Dyno-tuners . Only getting it back tomorrow . Today they map the aftermarket ECU and tomorrow morning the "cold start ". ( the aftermarket system does not use the stock cold start injector )
 
Dynorun complete and tuned

Report from Dyno tuner :
1. Some issue with Throttle position switch - he had to do some re-wiring .
2. Idle control valve not consistent . May need replacement of part . Car not idling consistently - sometimes a tap on the accelarator corrects a uneven idle .
3. Timing set .
4. Tuner complains that the 3F-E injectors has limited pulse width . He says he could get more out of the engine if the 3F-E injectors had a wider pulse width . It seems he is not used to the tappet noise of a 2F and he backed off the throttle above 4000rpm , saying it sound like the car wants to take off into orbit .
5. He says he gets 101kW but did not rev the car as high as it could go so it could easily reach 117kW. ( my dyno run with Carb at Dynotech last year was 109 kW)
6. Torque is max at 2600 rpm ( with the carb it was max at 4200 rpm)
7. He claims that if we use an adjustable Fuel pressure regulator , then we can get more fuel out of the injectors by raising the pressure in the fuel rail . Then we will get better performance above 4000rpm.
8. If my main aim was economy and I seldom go above the 4000rpm mark then the car is best left as is - the power band comes in very early .
It runs at 1000rpm in fifth gear and you can put foot and it goes .

Not sure what to make of his report - maybe when I drive it and feel the power I will be happy. Could be that these Dynotuners are used to cars revving up to 8000rpm and they just do not understand that we hardly go above 3000rpm .
 
Dropping the Max torque from 4200rpm to 2600rpm will make it feel much more drive able, you will be putting your foot down to go not downshifting. Peak power isn't everything but torque and where it is makes it driveable
 
With the carb I had a CR of 9.5 . Now we kept it stock so probably 8.* . That can explain the slight drop in peak power. We kept it low cause the initial plan was to add a turbo . The turbo idea has been shelved.

Rockdoc also reported more torque and a more drivable car. It is a offroad vehicle after all . We do go to the dunes from time to time and that is the only time I use high revs (above 4000rpm ) .
Next is to check fuel economy - that is critical these days.
 
Correction:
It is not 101 kw maximum . At 3800 rpm the dyno read 101kw and the power was still climbing but the operator backed off due to tappet noise. It looks like the max power would have peaked above 110kw.
The car is much more drivable. Lot more torque at lower revs and it accelarates much quicker. It feels like it keeps its power longer as well.
 
IN Cape Town all Petrol is 95 and it ran great with that . We do have a choice of different octane fuels .
 
In aus we have 91 and 96, some places sell 98 but when I build my 2fe I'll aim for that comp ratio and use the 96. If you have shelved the turbo plans, do you think in the future you will take the head off and machine it down some to bump the comp ratio up?
 
Hi red
If the head ever needs to be removed , then I will bump up the CR by shaving the head a bit .

Posted the Dyno results in another thread .
 
Now the reason why it has been so quiet .

Those things that you cannot see but makes a huge difference

Rear carrier with added bits ( ARB )
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Where the air line goes in
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Semi out and Full floater in
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