1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

2 questions....long post

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Mavric1298, Feb 12, 2003.

  1. Mavric1298

    Mavric1298

    Messages:
    163
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2002
    85 fj-60

    #1....Is the tranny supposed to be tilted a little bit?, looking front the front with it still mounted but engine out, my trans. looks about 3-5 degrees tilted, with the pass. side lower.  

    #2....About to start the SOA and was wanting to make sure step by step i have it down, read all the posts.  For the back, all you have to do is remove the axle, chop everything off, slide it back under with perchs on the top, put the full weight of the vehicle on it and point the pinion directly at the xfer output shaft, and weld the perchs in this postion.  Also make new shock absorber mounts.  As for the front, pull the axle out again, cut everything off, turn the knuckles 13 degrees (having someone else do this for me)  and then again point the pinion right at the xfer output shaft, and weld everything up.  As for steering, use hi-steer arm, and then rig up the rest.  Is this all there is to it?  I know this is actually alot of work, but just making sure i understand everything before i screw something up!

    oh yeah one last thing...I'm using the ranger overdrive as the conversion for my 350 thats goin in, which bellhousing do i use, the 3f one, or a chevy? this is the only thing im a lil' shady on....
     
  2. toddslater

    toddslater SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,498
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2002
    Location:
    Kennett Square
    Mavric,
    I'll give you some input on #1..and let #2 for Woody or someone else. As I recall you had a struggle getting your engine out..finally got it to pop...I think you said. After you unbolted everything and commenced the wrestling match, I'll bet that you did not put a jack under your transmission to lift the front of it and release the bind caused by it's weight (input shaft pressing downward on the clutch splines). When it popped, your tranny probablly dropped in the front at least an inch and probably alot more. What you are looking at now is a dangliing tranny with the transfer case weight causing it tilt towards pisgee. Put a floor jack under it to take the load off of your trans mounts that are holding it in place. You will also find it will pay dividends when re-installing the motor to have the trans nosed up some in the front.
     
  3. woody

    woody Internet Fireman Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,333
    Media:
    303
    Likes Received:
    1,090
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2002
    Location:
    Toquerville UT
    Your basics on the SOA sound right...remember tho, pointing the rear pinion = CV rear shaft...keeping those faces parallel = cheaper driveshaft and you have lots of length with the 60. I would keep them parallel...see http://www.4xshaft.com for some tech info on phase, etc.

    13 degrees may be right, may not...I've heard many variations on it. That should be a good start, but don't have it welded up until you've done your measurements. No two SOA projects are identical, and no two cut-turn measurements are the same either.
     
  4. Mavric1298

    Mavric1298

    Messages:
    163
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2002
    todd...actually i did have a jack under it, but its now out cause my jack doesn like stayin up for long periods of time....Woddy, so if i kept it parallel, i would just need to lengthin the driveshaft? Lastly how exactly do you measure the amount you need to rotate the knuckles....thanks again for the help. Also, i have the PE 2 and half lift springs, should prolly sell these for stock one right?
     
  5. woody

    woody Internet Fireman Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,333
    Media:
    303
    Likes Received:
    1,090
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2002
    Location:
    Toquerville UT
    keep the 2.5" springs, run 42" tires....lol

    knuckle rotation measurements are best done with the doner under the truck and the weight on the springs. If you intend to run a front CV shaft, then point the pinion at the t-case output, and measure at the knuckles to see how much they need to rotate back to get to factory +1 caster or more. You 13 degree rotation is a good start, but I would get it under the rig before final welding to triple check.

    You might need a longer rear, it may fit fine. Probably need it 1-2" longer tho. Any driveline shop can lengthen and will require a measured working length to determine ideal shaft length.
     
  6. Slowerthanu

    Slowerthanu SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,326
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2002
    Location:
    Bountiful, Utah
    As far as I have heard, The later 60's had a differant bellhousing which tilted the transmission slightly to bring the T-case either up and down.

    There is info on it on Pirate4x4.com

    Check out woodys tech links, he has absolutlely all the info you would need to know on SOA conversions.