1HD-T Rebuild - Checklist (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

zipdoa

zipdoa

Joined
Aug 13, 2015
Threads
26
Messages
327
Location
Calgary
So I'm going ahead to rebuild my 1HD-T. It spun the #5 cylinder bearing earlier this year. I have an idea of how much it will cost to do a less expensive fix (used crank, used rod, rebuild kit), but now I'm considering just going all out.

I can get a used crank that has been acid dipped and prepped out of Australia for $750, or I can get a brand new crank (updated part# 13411-17012) for $1500. I've been reading about BEB issues and how it is possibly caused by the crank, so maybe it's a better idea to just get a brand new one?

Aside that, I'm planning to have the IP + Injectors rebuilt, and a gturbo. For the block, is there anything aside acid dip + paint that it would benefit from? I'm assuming it doesn't need to be machined, but it will be inspected to confirm. Open to any and all suggestions. I haven't rebuilt an engine before, so I'm fairly new to the process. I just want everything done RIGHT!
 
zipdoa said:
So I'm going ahead to rebuild my 1HD-T. It spun the #5 cylinder bearing earlier this year. I have an idea of how much it will cost to do a less expensive fix (used crank, used rod, rebuild kit), but now I'm considering just going all out.

I can get a used crank that has been acid dipped and prepped out of Australia for $750, or I can get a brand new crank (updated part# 13411-17012) for $1500. I've been reading about BEB issues and how it is possibly caused by the crank, so maybe it's a better idea to just get a brand new one?

Aside that, I'm planning to have the IP + Injectors rebuilt, and a gturbo. For the block, is there anything aside acid dip + paint that it would benefit from? I'm assuming it doesn't need to be machined, but it will be inspected to confirm. Open to any and all suggestions. I haven't rebuilt an engine before, so I'm fairly new to the process. I just want everything done RIGHT!
Click to expand...

WOW. The crankshaft at Toyota List price is only $1248.51

I'd try to find a better source for that.
 
For all the effort you're going to (or planning, I'd allow for machining of the block.
What condition are the cylinder bores in?
If there's any kind of lip at the top of the bore, you're better off having the block rebored, rehoned and use oversize pistons.
Are you using an engine rebuilder? Get them to inspect the block and advise on the condition.
40/1000th" (1.015mm) is a standard oversize piston, typically this is the minimal amount required to tidy up wear in the cylinders.

Cutting corners with the rebuild will leave you with a permanent question mark over its reliability.
 
mudgudgeon said:
For all the effort you're going to (or planning, I'd allow for machining of the block.
What condition are the cylinder bores in?
If there's any kind of lip at the top of the bore, you're better off having the block rebored, rehoned and use oversize pistons.
Are you using an engine rebuilder? Get them to inspect the block and advise on the condition.
40/1000th" (1.015mm) is a standard oversize piston, typically this is the minimal amount required to tidy up wear in the cylinders.

Cutting corners with the rebuild will leave you with a permanent question mark over its reliability.
Click to expand...


Correct.
Take the engine out, disassemble everything, bring the block, crank and head to a good, reputable machine shop, and have them measure everything. AFTER that, start ordering parts for the rebuild, as you will not know beforehand what size pistons, bearings and rings you will need, and how many valves are shot.
 
Just curious, what did you have on the odo when your beb failed? I am seeing folks on here with failures in the mid 100k km (or at least going ahead with rebuilds). Mine has 77k km, and I was hoping to make it well past 200 before having to get into the guts of the engine.
 
slceso said:
Just curious, what did you have on the odo when your beb failed? I am seeing folks on here with failures in the mid 100k km (or at least going ahead with rebuilds). Mine has 77k km, and I was hoping to make it well past 200 before having to get into the guts of the engine.
Click to expand...
The BEB's are really not a difficult job. I wouldn't put it off.
 
slceso said:
Just curious, what did you have on the odo when your beb failed? I am seeing folks on here with failures in the mid 100k km (or at least going ahead with rebuilds). Mine has 77k km, and I was hoping to make it well past 200 before having to get into the guts of the engine.
Click to expand...

Change BEB @ 100k km as an insurance policy.
There's countless aussie hdj80's with 4-500k km without engines having been opened up.
 
For anyone whose following:

I have Johnathan Schultz rebuild the 1HD-T for me. It looks pretty bad in there. He mentioned that it seems like oil bypassed the filter and contaminated the turbo.

We're going to get the later style 92+ pistons with the bigger combustion bowl. Do I need to change injectors, or just the washers? I read something about changing IP timing as well.

I contacted Engines Australia regarding piston sizes, but haven't heard back yet. Does anyone know of OEM or Aftermarket options?

Here's some pictures of the rebuild so far:

Cwp08fg.jpg


QBFbdxr.jpg


LZpU5aR.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hey zipdoa - Engines Australia is your only option which you have to buy from their distributor: 4wheel Auto in Edmonton. Unless EA has changed there policy and now sells direct. But don't use the oil seals that come in the kit (rear main, front, cam, etc) Buy OEM for those and substitute. Unless the kit seals are now different? Might want to ask them as 6 years ago they were garbage. Had to replace them all after assembly. Slight PITA!

Give me a shout if I can be any help as I'm just down the road. Have you decided on a Machine Shop?
 
Don't forget the flywheel machining and a new clutch kit if the old one a has few klms on it. I had the manifold surfaces planed true when I had a 1HZ rebuilt. The machinist said they were up to 1 mm out of spec in places.
 
SHREDwagon said:
Hey zipdoa - Engines Australia is your only option which you have to buy from their distributor: 4wheel Auto in Edmonton. Unless EA has changed there policy and now sells direct. But don't use the oil seals that come in the kit (rear main, front, cam, etc) Buy OEM for those and substitute. Unless the kit seals are now different? Might want to ask them as 6 years ago they were garbage. Had to replace them all after assembly. Slight PITA!

Give me a shout if I can be any help as I'm just down the road. Have you decided on a Machine Shop?
Click to expand...
Sorry for the late reply.

Not sure who John is using as a Machinist, but I imagine it's somewhere nearby to him (Edmonton area). @roscoFJ73 - I assume that the machinist will be looking over the entire block either way?

I'm trying to decide between a Grunter Extreme and a Badboy. Apparently there was contaminated oil in the turbo and oil pump, so I'm going to replace those items as well. I ordered a brand new crank from toyotapartsdirect.ca, $1650 shipped including tax.

I have not ordered a rebuilt kit yet, as I'm waiting to find out on piston size.

The IP and Injectors are going off to Okanagan Diesel Injection to get rebuilt.

John is checking the head this week and making sure it's solid.

I don't have the budget for a proper intercooler right now, but I'm looking into the Safari and CrossCountry I/C's.

Still need to order a new connecting rod and an oil pump - if anyone has part#'s handy that would be awesome!
 
GTurbo told me to go straight to the BadBoy, as opposed to a Grunter Extreme, the price difference is not that much.

No driving impressions yet because she's strapped to the dyno still, but I'm liking what I see so far.

Also, I am very happy with my Cross Country IC - they are made here in Adelaide.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

foxtrot678
1HD-T starting issue
Replies
1
Views
637
foxtrot678
foxtrot678
EdenSeen
Any detailed checklist for SAFELY turboing a 2H engine?
Replies
12
Views
726
BrickRunner
BrickRunner
marcjs
1HD-T Voltage Converter Relay Question
Replies
5
Views
809
MUDZLLA
MUDZLLA
clay763
Odd part # fuel filter housing? 1HD-T, 1990
Replies
1
Views
267
clay763
clay763

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom