1fz-fe Stroker? (1 Viewer)

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One word.... TURBO!

Not quite a 1FZ-FE

But a 2F-ETI

000_0305.jpg
 
three words . . .


Stroker with turbo!

if Robbie was involved and actually doing the engine then I would contemplate it.

otherwise you would be a fool to even try such a project.

this is just my 02 and I don't know s*** about turbo's or 80's.

but I have thought about this and might actually do something in the future.

but not right now.
 
Ive heard that gas will be over 6 dollars a gallon within 18 months. At the rate it is currently climbing, I believe it will be much sooner than that, possibly before next Christmas. That puts a mild one thousand mile road trip at costing right around 500 dollars in just fuel.

I would be more interested in Diesel conversions than squeezing a bit more power out of the 1FZ.
 
If you are really interested in stroking your engine...call the guys at Memphis MotorWerks. They are currently working on my E28 M5 engine right now...not cheap but they are using top quality parts. CP Pistons at $450.00 a pop to give you a clue..with a final bill in the US$10k range. These guys will do anything you want if you have the cash.

Anyway, here is their link:

Memphis Motor Werks :: high performance service for autos and motorcycles
 
Robbie is coming to my place to build up my 94 supercharged motor. The head has been ported and polished. New valve seats ground etc. etc. The block has been bored to 1.25 mm over. Custom pistons and the rest of the deal.

We'll see how it runs after he works his magic. :cool:
 
You have to be very careful with porting and or polishing the 4.5 head, if you think you may want forced induction down the track, as un even distribution of air can make for pinging you cant fix.

For sure the cheapest power gain you can do is forced induction, I have had turbo, and now supercharged 4.5's, and for bolt on, the power is excellent.

I currently have a CAPA kit on my 4.5 with vortech, and I have added jet hot coated extractors and 3" exhaust with straight muffler, we have aded a rising rate fuel reg, and hard wired the fuel pump, so it stays higher pressure.

For a bolt on 2nd hand kit, running 7 psi [I added a blow off valve thats adj, rather than the Bosch unit in the pic] and no intercooler at the moment, it made 213 hp [aprox] and 385 ft lbs on 37's on the dyno, imrpoving fuel economy, taking much less throttle position to achieve the same result, and making a vehicle that torques around, instead of rev around.

Next we are chnaging the computer, so we can run more low down advance timing, for more torue off the mark, and drop it back up high, so no detonation, rather than be stuck with the base timing we have with the toyota set up.


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We are expecting 300 rw hp and 480 ish ft lb with the changes to intercooler, and computer, and a slight decompress, while i do valve stem seals etc after this years desert trip, on 10-12 psi boost.

I dont expect the economy to change much from where it is now either, going from 18.5-19 lt per 100km down to mid 16's now supercharged.
 
We are expecting 300 rw hp and 480 ish ft lb with the changes to intercooler, and computer, and a slight decompress, while i do valve stem seals etc after this years desert trip, on 10-12 psi boost.

wouuu big numbers .. how much descompresion are planed .?

And the air fuel ratio @ 12 PSI ...?
 
smiley, you gonna get (and show us) all sorts of dyno numbers, before and after etc, right...? :)
 
wouuu big numbers .. how much descompresion are planed .?

And the air fuel ratio @ 12 PSI ...?

The turbo version i had back in the late 90's was those No's, and we didnt have the higher octane fuels we have now, and the turbo version was running 10 psi.

Minimal decompression is required for 10-12 psi, .1 -.2 would be more than enough, for safety against detonation higher in the rev range, though being able to adjust timing with aftermarket computer so you arent stuck with the "base" timing set up of the standard set up helps with this as well.

The engine out of my turbo truck http://www.sleeoffroad.com/pictures/reader_darren.htm" went into an auto 80, back then, after I sold it, and stormin norman http://www.yourlandcruiser.com/other/Storman99-0.wmv wrote it off, and it was run on stright lpg at 20 psi, making close to 400 hp, at the rear wheels.
 
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If you are really interested in stroking your engine...call the guys at Memphis MotorWerks. They are currently working on my E28 M5 engine right now...not cheap but they are using top quality parts. CP Pistons at $450.00 a pop to give you a clue..with a final bill in the US$10k range. These guys will do anything you want if you have the cash.

Anyway, here is their link:

Memphis Motor Werks :: high performance service for autos and motorcycles

I did that about 7 years ago. With my E28. Did a Hartge H5s Replica. It was steller. I now have a turboed 4 door E36. Wicked sweet.

Post some pics when you are done.

After, I do a few mods, my bro in law and I are going to check out a few other areas. Forced induction seems to be the recommended form of more power. We will see.:popcorn:
 
Guys... Send a stock rod to nearly any rod mfg in the US and they will be able to make you a H-beam or what ever you want...

Anyway I made around 450hp on stock 4g63 (4cyl) rods turbocharged. I went with forged rods capable of 1000hp (that is 250hp per rod) to run 35psi and alcohol fuel (well over 600hp).. It had a knock sensor regulated ignition.

If you dont run a stand alone EMS that has a knock sensor get the J&S safeguard.

IMHO for a boosted cruiser keep the rods stock.. They look better than the OEM 4g63 rods and I dont think most people will go over 600hp or even 500hp. They will be fine with proper airfuel ratio tuning and ignition timing for the boost level..

For a stroker and any engine you want to raise the rev limiter on get HQ forged rods. Increasing stroke and or RPM is more likely to break a rod than just boosting it. As the piston swings up and down across TDC the rod bolts can fail since the cap is trying to be pulled off. Then of course you will need recam the engine for sure.

For a turbocharged engine a mild camshaft such as the stock one for a truck engine is nearly ideal. IMHO turboing it is the lowest cost way to big power.
 
Yep, I too have reached that conclusion.
It must be the way the motor was made.

Cuz my 1987 535i bmw, was ported, polished, stroked, new cam, rear diff, chip and exhaust. It was puttin down close to 240rwh before I dropped the turbo in. There was a night and day difference between the old motor and new motor.......
 
Hi Guys, I thought I'd add some info here.

You can get stroker cranks for the 1FZ-FE. They either come from Revolution in Dubai of from here in australia. (approx $6000 aus + shipping)

You then also need custom (shorter) rods to go with the crank - generally another $1000 or so. You can use a rod from another motor, but you need to buy pistons as well.

Basically, you won't get out of it for under $10,000 (and that's just the bottom end) Consider also that this will only net a 300cc increase. There have been bigger stroke set-ups than that, but the rod angles and rod length to stroke ratio gets all nasty

There are two bang for your buck ways to do it.

1. The 1FZ is very under stressed, and flow increases in the head of 30+% are not dificult. In addiditon, the cams are very conservative and of a very low lift (330 thou only). Cast iron blanks are available so you can design your own profile, or just go for an off the shelf grind. The only thing to remember is that anything over factory lift required some relief of the cam bucket bores as bigger lobes are an interference fit. You can then also go to bigger valves etc etc. When doing this stuff the bottom end can remain 100% stock. One thing to watch is that the porting needs to be done by someone experienced as it is east to have the flow rate go backwards if you don't know what you are doing. The only reason that pinging occurs is if there has been no attention paid to gaining control over the fuel and ignition settings.

2. The 1FZ is extremely strong in stock form and can withstand turbocharging with only minor mods. First thing is having the block and head freshley machined flat with a good surface finish, and then using ARP Toyota 2JZ head studs with a fresh gasket. The factory pistons are very good for turbo applications due to high mass/long skits/thichk crown and ring lands. The 80 series are best with the 100 pistons series being a bit lighter. The conrods are good for 600hp reliably. The only rod that has failed on me was at 850hp. (pistons were fine-just the rod collapsed). The crank will support as much HP as you choose to make. (ie 1200+++ hp. They do not break) As with head work, to make the most out of a turbo, you need to gain some control over the fule and spark, although at 10psi and under the factory system copes okay with a few tweaks.


In short - do not bother with a stroker. They are absolutely rubbish bang for buck.
 

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