1988 toyota pickup sas build (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 1, 2014
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16
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Location
Idaho
Hello all, I thought I would start this thread, even though I won't be receiving my sas kit for a week or so. This is my first sas, and the biggest project I have ever attempted. I've been wrenching on mainly toyotas for pretty much my whole life, but never done something like this. Its a 1988 toyota pickup 4x4. Here is a list of parts I have ordered/ received so far.

Trail gear ifs eliminator kit with 3 inch springs (will be here next week sometime)
1200 lb clutch kit from marlin (received already)
Usa standard gear 529 ring & pinions (next week sometime)
Knuckle stude kit from TG
1985 front axle complete hub to hub. (Scored it for only 200 bucks)
Wheel bearing kit from marlin (next week sometime)
New makita grinder
Skil sawzall
Lincoln ac dc 225 buzzbox
Craftsman drill with hole saws

I'm sure I'm missing some stuff but oh well. I am going to have to use a sawzall and makita 4 1/2 inch grinder to remove ifs. I don't have the funds for a torch. Trust me I tried to find one. If anyone has any advice on using a sawzall and cutting wheels for ifs removal feel free to chime in. Ill have some pics tomarrow. That's when ill start cleaning up the axle. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 
I already purchased some of the "torch" sawzall blads. I've heard from a few people they were good blades. But if they don't work well enough, it wouldn't hurt to try some diablo ones. Thank you. Anyone else have options or opinions?
 
Got the axle completely torn down. And most of the way sanded. Getting ready to paint, and sending the 3rd member from the 1985 front and one from an 86 rear to get 5.29 ring and pinions installed. While I'm waiting for them to get done and the sas kit to get here ill paint up the axle.
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Alright guys, slowly but surely the project is coming along. The only reason I haven't gotten anything else done with the axle is because I'm still waiting for the rebuild kit for the knuckles. But, I did get off work today and come home to my 5 29 ring and pinions today. Ill probly take those in tomarrow and have the gears installed. I have a 1986 rear third that I'm having them put in along with the 85 front. I'm using the 86 rear instead of my 88 so I can still drive my pickup until the sas. I just have one question, I ordered usa standard gear ring and pinions, but what I got was in a yukon box. But the install kits that I received last week came in a usa standard gear packaging.
 
I'm not sure what your question is. Did you want everything to be usa brand? Seems like a question for the vendor.

I've installed several sets of Yukons, no issues. The install kits are decent, except i always toss the pinion seal and get an oem one from Toyota, much better quality.

Make sure they Loktite the pinion nut as well as staking it.
 
what I was asking is do the usa standard gears come in a yukon box? Because I baught the install kit and it came in a usa standard box. But when I ordered the r&p it came in yukon packaging. Don't matter to me, I've heard yukon is top notch. I was just curious because I read somewhere that usa standard is made by yukon. Oh well I checked and I was only charged 130 per ring and pinion. And I got free shipping.
 
what I was asking is do the usa standard gears come in a yukon box? Because I baught the install kit and it came in a usa standard box. But when I ordered the r&p it came in yukon packaging. Don't matter to me, I've heard yukon is top notch. I was just curious because I read somewhere that usa standard is made by yukon. Oh well I checked and I was only charged 130 per ring and pinion. And I got free shipping.
 
Alright, got my sas kit and everything I need. Still waiting on rear shocks. But that's it. I took my diffs in to get re geared, and it turns out the carrier for the diff was cracked :frown:. Oh well I'm gonna pull the diff out that's on my pickup right now and use that one. since my pickup isn't going to be drivable I'm going to start my sas tomarrow. going to be using a skil sawzall with torch blades, and a 4 1/2 inch makita grinder. what is the best way to go about cutting the ifs off with a sawzall? Do I have to unbolt anything first or can I just put it on jack stands and cut away? Any input is appreciated.
 
I tried to do my SAS with a Milwaukee Sawzall. It was very frustrating and slow. I gave up and went and borrowed a torch.

Just sayin...
 
Yeah I know its going to take longer with a sawzall then a torch. But I looked for a torch, and the only places around here that will rent one out want an outrageous amount of money. And none of my friends have one, so sawzall it is. I've read around and a few people said it did take a while with their sawzall, but it wasn't too bad. I know I have at least a full day of cutting/grinding ahead of me, but I think it will be worth it. I was just wondering what the best way of going at it with a sawzall is.
 
Well there are some things that will have to be unbolted, t-bars, steering, upper arms, etc. but if you get that cleared out then the lower arms can be cut off with the frame mounts.

In all honesty, it all has to come off, so as long as you don't hit anything that you need to keep, you can cut it off in little pieces and never touch but two bolts. The t-bars should be unloaded on the frame end at the very least. you don't want those unloading on you half way in.
 
Jynx, I thought everything for the ifs had to come off? What do u mean about hitting something I need to keep?
 
It all does, but there are hard brake lines, oil pan, steering lines, wiring, etc that could all be in/around the upper arm mounts. Everything does come off, just sayin be mindful of the small stuff since a recip blade will go past whatever it is cutting and might hit something behind.
 
Oh gotcha. Yea I didn't plan on grabbing the saw and just start hackin everything up lol. But thanks for the input.
 
One of the best tools I used was an air hammer w/chisel to get under the brackets and pull them off.
 
I don't know if it is something you would be interested in, but I bought a cheap plasma cutter on eBay a couple of years ago and it has been awesome at cutting anything I need. Especially once I got the 220 hooked up.
 
A plasma cutter would be awesome, but, I've already spent a bunch of money lol. But its definately on my list of tools to get. Back to the sas. I got the front hanger welded on yesterday, because I don't have the skills to do it myself. The ifs is still intact. I just needed to keep it driveable because its my DD. I'm having a problem with the shackle holes that need cut thru the frame. I baught some hole saws, and when I. Went outside to cut the holes, I realized the drill didn't have enough room, due to there not being a body lift on my truck. Couldn't get the dill to sit level. I was going to have someone use a torch, but there are metal fuel lines on the passanger side frame rail. I looked, and there bolted to the frame. Can I just undo the bolts and move the fuel lines out of the way? Or do I have to completely remove them?
 
I unbolted the fuel lines and pulled them back 6" when I cut the holes for mine (I used a plasma). Worked fine.

Also remember there is a brace inside the frame which will need to be cut to clear the shackle tube
 
Wish I had a plasma cutter, would be pretty nice to have. But I only have a 1 car garage so space is an issue lol. Anyways, a friend of mine from work is gonna use his torch this week sometime to cut the holes for the shackle tubes. He's been a mill wright for a long time, so he should do a pretty good job. My front and rear diffs should be done tomarrow and ready for pick-up. As long as I get the shackle holes done this week sometime, my buddy and I will start chopping the ifs stuff off this weekend. So even tho I'm using a sawzall and grinder, it shouldn't take too long with two people cutting.
 

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