1988 FJ62 Engine Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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H55F 5 speed behind a fresh 3fe makes the ol 62 almost feel like a sports car. Put a good high flow exhaust in the mix, and it's mo betta fo sho..
 
not oil pan, oil pump mounting boss...it is held to the inside lip of the block via 2 bolts behind the oil cooler. IF it gets loosened and moved AT ALL from its factory location, it will make installation and removal of the dizzy impossible...ask how I found out.
I removed mine not knowing until after that you are not supposed to. When I put it back together i just installed the oil pump and then slid the ditributor in and tightened the 2 bolts. Distrubutor slides in and out no problem. Did I miss something or just get lucky?
 
smart and lucky- the perfect combo
 
how did you find out??
 
Good info @Godwin I have the H42 on the list. How much work is it to get it installed along with the required clutch pedals and all.

How much work to install manual tranny + components into a FJ62? I don't know because my FJ60 came with all those parts. I swapped the 3FE into a FJ60.

There are several threads on installing a H42 (or H55F) into a FJ62. Best to have a later model FJ60 on hand as a parts rig for the swap.
 
I'm totally a self taught wrencher and I pulled it off in the garage when my a440 crapped out on me. It was a project, had to do a little welding to stick a fj60 crossmember in, since the H55 sets on the mounts about 4" shorter than the auto, and pick up the right bellhousing (can't remember the year(s), but it cants the trans a little). Had the driveshafts shortened/lengthened, fabbed a clutch line, and there's a list of parts to make the conversion, but it's not terrible. The brand new in the box trans was about $2750 a few years ago, and I think it ran me around $4000-ish for the whole shebang, if I recall correctly. With the 4.11 gears and 32x11.5's, it's not a high speed proposition, just because I don't like to wind it out, but she scoots getting up to freeway speed and unless it's a real steep incline, I can generally take it in 5th at 70mph @ 2500rpm, which seems to be the sweet spot for cruising.
 
With the 4.11 gears and 32x11.5's, it's not a high speed proposition, just because I don't like to wind it out, but she scoots getting up to freeway speed and unless it's a real steep incline, I can generally take it in 5th at 70mph @ 2500rpm, which seems to be the sweet spot for cruising.

Similar setup here - H55F, 4.11s, 33x10.5 - but with a 2F. 70 mph @ 2500 rpm is the sweet spot while returning 13-14 mpg.
 
how did you find out??


when I tried to stick the diz into the completed long block I got home from the machinist. had to drop the pan to get things realigned....
 
A little more progress before heading to the machine shop.

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lucky SOB; all you gotta do is swap that ugly pipe plug for a nice allen headed plug of the same thread...and keep the timing cover screws in order...don't swap the rocker shaft pedistals position to position...oil passages and whatnot- and don't mix up front and back of the shaft itself...
 
had you done a valve adjust before condemning the engine?
 
Actually it was just leaking oil pretty badly at the rear main seal then it started running really rough and was loosing power. When we pulled it into the shop we checked compression and it was zero in three cylinders. Engine is at the machine shop now getting everything measured to see what the issue was. Visually I didn't see anything wrong with it. @FJ40Jim
 
Yeah I was wondering why the full take down. Head looked pretty good (mine had some REALLY dark valves) and the block doesn't look funky at all. Did you rotate the pistons and see any scoring on the cylinder walls? No indicators that I could see of hg failure and the tops of pistons aren't overly cooked?
 
Slowly making some progress. Cleaning the engine bay good while the engine is getting build up. Should have the engine back from the machine shop at the first of next week.

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