1982 SR5 Longbed (1 Viewer)

[80t0ylc]

I replaced the door panels in my '81 not long after I got it. Fabbed them myself, from aluminum. Looks better, but I wouldn't recommend using aluminum unless you cover it with something more acoustically friendly. I was warned by a fellow mudder (after I showed the following pics) about the noise and he was right. I just use the truck for trail riding and hauling, so no big deal. I took the original panels off and used them for a pattern. It worked quite well. I appreciate your reporting about the window regulator issues. I got some work to do myself on mine. Anyway, here's a before and after of mine. My truck thread in case you're interested. Haven't done much work recently, but such is life.

 

[KLF]

The stripped part was at the fully closed position, so the window would slip down a bit & leave a gap.

This is usually caused by a poor weatherstrip that is leaking air, and cranking up on the window too hard to get the wind noise to stop. The pinion gear in the crank has a lot of torque when you crank up hard, and it can easily tear the teeth off the regulator like that.

 

[ToyotaDon]

I did have the thought to go with aluminum, so thanks for the warning.

@KLF, I find myself doing the same thing, trying to quiet the wind noise.

 

[ToyotaDon]

Guess I'll go ahead and update this. Last we checked, I had done a temporary repair on the passenger window regulator. Not long after that, I picked up a pair of complete doors to pull parts off of (plan is to keep some of the parts, and sell others), so I tackled the driver regulator next.

It was in a lot worse shape!

Once in place, and greased up, it works nicely. Now I can use the drive through at Starbuck's.

I hope to use the other doors as donors for repairing the original ones, eventually piecing the sheet metal together in a somewhat professional manner.

A couple more things I addressed started with these pictures I took while driving.

The pedal pads were an easy fix, and feel much nicer.

The windshield needs a new seal, as there are many cracks all the way around. For now, I just filled in all the holes with Toyota FIPG.
I need to get some newer pictures of that repair, and there are a couple other things to update as well.

 

[ToyotaDon]

Thanks to @beno, I now have some more parts to work with. HOLIDAY GIVE AWAY: 2015

Getting ready to do some major work, but I had to get space cleared out in my garage. The plan was to do this while the kids were on winter break, but my oldest started back yesterday, and we just got it pulled in last night.

First start in a long time.



Sorry for the dark videos, I was hoping this would happen on one of my days off.



1982 Toyota SR5 Longbed 4x4 going under the knife Part 3

1982 Toyota SR5 Longbed 4x4 going under the knife Part 4

Put Tristan to work getting the rear view mirror reinstalled after I took it out and got it working by cleaning & lubing the switch.

Still the same bulb that was in there before.

 

[ToyotaDon]

The dome light cover is on order, should be getting that Saturday.

Now, you're all going to be asking what work will be happening...and the videos & pics give some clues. Besides pulling the trans & transfer case to do the rear main seal, I still need to rebuild the power steering pump, the radiator started leaking the other day, and those axle seals have gotten really bad. Many other things should be done "while I'm there", so we'll see how this progresses.

 

[KLF]

Geez ya that power steering pump needs some attention. I think I have an extra one if you need it.

Put an LED in that dome light, much more light.

 

[ToyotaDon]

Thanks for the offer, but I have all the pieces to rebuild it already. The return hose is also leaking, so sucking air is likely causing most of the noise. I still need to source that hose, since OEM is no longer available through the regular channels.

Will probably end up with an LED dome, but I thought it was cool the old bulb still lights up.

 

[ToyotaDon]

Continuing on for the next couple nights, we made some more progress.

 

[ToyotaDon]

Pulling the shifters out.

 

[ToyotaDon]

Transfer shifter.







My photographer didn't get the camera set up for video in time, so we didn't document the trans & transfer removal, but it went pretty well just balanced on a floor jack.

The oil leak accumulation can be seen on the back of the engine.

 

[ToyotaDon]

Thursday evening after work, I took a run up to Fresno with the whole chunk loaded in the back of my Camry. Marlin was waiting for me, and in his usual helpful way, spent more time going over it than he would ever charge for. We started with throwing the clutch, flywheel, & pressure plate in his parts washer, then got the transmission & transfer case up on the bench.

After looking at the serial numbers, it appears that the transmission was swapped at some point. My truck was built February 1982, the transfer case is the same, but the trans has a date of November 1981. Pulling the top cover & nosecone confirmed that I have the earlier, small-case L50, so that was a letdown.

Marlin sold me on upgrading to the larger front bearing and we talked about the center bearing and fifth gear a little bit. Fortunately, after splitting the transfer case from the trans, we found that fifth gear has already been upgraded. Marlin commented that whoever built it actually knew a little bit of what they were doing. He will make his own improvements to things like the shift forks, rebuild the whole thing, and hopefully get some 4.70 gears into the transfer case.

With the clutch & pressure plate cleaned up, it looks like I will be reusing them. Marlin also machined my flywheel to spec, and signed it for me (so thankful I thought to bring those along).

 

[ToyotaDon]

A little bit of inspecting the leak(s).





Pulled the radiator and took it into the shop. They called me the next day and said it's not repairable.

It's leaking from the core, and with the price of metal, a new core would be over $500.

I've also been working at getting the P/S pump out. The pressure hose is giving me trouble.

 

[ToyotaDon]

I checked with all the older techs at work and none of them had a 17mm line wrench. One of them had a pair of long pliers he said works well on things like that, and a cheater pipe to slide over the handle, which I brought home tonight.

I ended up finding another line wrench in the toolbox that I have in my Cruiser. It's an S-K brand, but fit tighter and had more bulk around the head than my Mac. Using it with the cheater pipe and holding the outlet with a 1 1/16" open end, it popped loose.

Someone had used a pair of pliers on it before, as evidenced by the scars, but it's still usable.

 

[ToyotaDon]

I also meant to mention that wrench was given to me by my brother-in-law, who is a luthier (violin-maker). He and a friend bought a "lot" of toolboxes full of tools at auction. They thought they were bidding on just one, but got all of them at a bargain, then had to haul them off. I think they each kept one box, sold the rest for a profit, then had were a few tools left over that I got.

 

[ToyotaDon]

So I put together the two polls that I ran on Marlin & IH8MUD forums, and these are the results:

Full restoration to factory original condition Received 4 votes total.

Resto-mod with a newer FI engine, like the 22RE or 2RZ/3RZ Received 13 votes total, this being the favorite of the Marlin folks.

Crawler build with tons, big block, and exocage! Received 0 votes total. I guess no one wanted to go along with the joke.

"Driver-quality" restoration, leaving a lot of the paint/patina as-is & enjoying it Received 15 votes total, edging out the Resto-mod by a scant 13 1/3 percent.

Which direction should I go with this build?
Edit
Poll closed Jun 29, 2015.

1. Full restoration to factory original condition
   2 vote(s)
   11.1%
2. Resto-mod with a newer FI engine, like the 22RE or 2RZ/3RZ
   4 vote(s)
   22.2%
3. Crawler build with tons, big block, and exocage!
   0 vote(s)
   0.0%
4. *
   "Driver-quality" restoration, leaving a lot of the paint/patina as-is & enjoying it
   12 vote(s)
   66.7%

Which direction should I go with this build?

Full restoration to factory original condition
2 (14.3%)
Resto-mod with a newer FI engine, like the 22RE or 2RZ/3RZ
9 (64.3%)

Crawler build with tons, big block, and exocage!
0 (0%)

"Driver-quality" restoration, leaving a lot of the paint & patina as-is, cleaning & fixing the interior & wiring, and just enjoying it for awhile.
3 (21.4%)
Total Members Voted: 14

Voting closed: Jun 29, 2015, 01:40:21 PM

 

[pappy]

So, 28 votes say keep the cosmetics the same, but upgrade the drive-train. I'm up for that.

 

[ToyotaDon]

A lot of the work right now is cleaning parts; either nuts & bolts for reassembly time, or parts that are having paint/rust removed and repainted.

Here's the power steering pump rebuild progress so far.

Getting the front seal out was quite a chore, but once started, it had to be done. The repair manual actually says to cut the rubber of the seal from around the shaft, then pry the rest out.

Under the seal is a snap ring, which I had to remove with a couple screwdrivers, since my snap ring pliers were at work.

Most of these pictures I took for my own benefit when reassembling.

We were doing this in the back of the truck, had the FSM on the iPad, and other parts stashed all around.

Everything was still available from Toyota, including o-rings, gaskets, etc. just not in kit form anymore. Of course, the bushing inside the housing has never been available separately, and mine shows some wear (too hard to photograph), but I will just have to run with it.

 

[ToyotaDon]

I also have the rear main seal housing cleaned & prepped for reassembly.

New seal installed.

The EGR Cooler mounts to the back of the cylinder head, and seemed to be the source of one of my leaks.

It allows exhaust gasses to pass next to the coolant passage before entering the combustion chamber. Both portions need to be sealed properly, and Marlin gave me a recommendation for improving the coolant portion.

Many of the water pumps on newer Toyota vehicles have similar grooves for the FIPG to seal into, so it should help here as well.

Back to some of the painting--I am trying the Rust-Oleum high temp primer and engine enamel, which is turning out really nice.

I need to get another picture of the transfer case shifter after paint, but it makes me want to wet sand it and add more coats.

 

[KLF]

I would get that shroud in a blast cabinet, otherwise you're wasting your time. Or, get a plastic one from the next generation.

Getting the front seal out was quite a chore, but once started, it had to be done. The repair manual actually says to cut the rubber of the seal from around the shaft, then pry the rest out.

Easy way to get those seals out, carefully drill a small hole in the metal ring, screw in a #6 sheet metal screw. Yank on the screw, the seal will pop right out.