Cut and Turn: My experience (1 Viewer)

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Trollhole

Trollhole

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Before cutting the perches and hardware off
IMG_3894c.jpg



Before cutting all the hardware off (So I know how it goes back on)



Back on with vehicles weight on axle to measure stock castor (jack stands are for safety only, no weight on them right now)

IMG_3928c.jpg


Measuring stock castor. Make sure angle finder is parallel to spring and spings are parallel to frame.


IMG_3899c.jpg


Cutting off mounts. Make sure you mark where the old perches were located on the axle because your mounting the new perches 180 degrees on the other side. Makes it a lot easier.

IMG_3901c.jpg
IMG_3927c.jpg
 
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Make sure you mark where the old perches were located on the axle because your mounting the new perches 180 degrees on the other side. Makes it a lot easier.

Bare housing with rough weld from old perches and hardware.

IMG_3896c.jpg


In vise level and at stock or original castor angle (mine was 2 degrees + because PO had added shims normal should be +1)

IMG_3898c.jpg


Smoothed down filling all cuts from taking perches and hardware off; filled and then ground back smooth.

IMG_3902c.jpg


With level housing rotated 14 degrees I put perches on at 0 degrees to measure how much I would need to cut them to fit on the housing. You can see the left side needs no modification.

IMG_3903c.jpg
 
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But the right side will due to differential housing.

IMG_3905c.jpg


You can see how much I needed to grind to make it fit. I used Dodge perches # P4120074 there are two prches in each box. They were $11 dollars a box. You need two boxes. Though it's not nessesary to put a perch on the left bottom side I did anyway. The right side needs something to keep ubolt from slipping off. If you look ata a stock non SOA you will know what I mean.

IMG_3914.jpg


This is a diagram of what I ground down with each dot representing an inch. (this is for one side only of the right perch.) Use this for reference only.

IMG_3916.jpg


Making sure it is level.

IMG_3911.jpg


I cut the knuckle 1/32 less than 1/4 inch using a depth gauge to measure distance. (You can actually see the seam of the outer housing and the knuckle in this picture.) Also notice the vertical cut up top. I did this as a reference to stock setting so when I tested the knuckle to see if I had ground enough down and turned it I could put it back to stock again. Turning it was not that hard as others have recommended use old bearing races in the knuckle when turning it otherwise you could deform the race areas and have a mess on your hands.

IMG_3920c.jpg
 
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Home owners rules states that all 4 tires must be on the vehicle at all times. (looks good to me :D )

IMG_3926c.jpg


Back on with the pinion angle set correctly (+14). We also backed this up by installing the diff and lining up the driveshaft. Centered the housing between the springs. Added the new perches with the weight on the front housing and tighten the u-bolts. The weld the new perches enough so when I did the knuckle turn it would hold the housing from turning. I also tacked the bottom perches on at this time.

IMG_3929c.jpg


Ground the cut out on the knuckle to make for a better weld penetration. Turned the knuckles to +5 degrees using a breaker bar and a 5 lb sledge hammer. And then tacked it into place. (Make sure when using an angle finder that you are consistant with where you put it on the knuckle and that it is parallel to the frame and springs.) I found it was easier to turn the knuckle to 0 degrees and then get this right because the more degrees the knuckle is turned the harder it is to get an acurate reading. I also did this with the bearing races in. (not shown in pic)

IMG_3937c.jpg


My helper Alex. Air tools are the best investment. (taking the housing back off)

IMG_3936c.jpg


Welding left perch

IMG_3938c.jpg


Welding right perch



Then weld knuckles on. Then shock, brake, steering stop mounts go on next. I did this while the housing was back on the vehicle for proper adjustment. Then put everthing back on. And your done. :D

Have fun. It really was not that hard. The grinding and cuting everything off was by far the hardest part.
 
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Hey. Great pics. I appreciate the detail in the write up. When do we see the completed project? Cheers, Jim
 
very helpful troll, i getting started on mine this next week and will use this info. looks good
 
Very nice Marshal now dont forget any of it before I go SOA in the future (timeframe yet to be determined). I want to see lots of pics and carnage from Tellico in 2 weeks.
 
great write up dude

the more pics you have makes it easier to understand what really needs to be done

this winter I will be doing some 60 series housing for my 40 along with a shackle reverse and rear disc brakes. and will definatley be doing cut and turn :)
 
OK, dumb question that will show my ignorance...

is the knuckle ball attached to an *inner* axle?
IOW you are cutting through the outer axle inboard of the factory weld so you can twist the knuckle ball and inner axle INSIDE of the outter axle???

and this will keep the knuckle alligned and centered so your axle seal and such are in the right place?

if so....... I never realized it was this easy. I always had a picture of cutting the knuckle LOOSE ...then trying to hold it on and weld it on while keeping everything alligned. :rolleyes:

great pics! Thanks!
 
clemson55 said:
Very nice Marshal now dont forget any of it before I go SOA in the future (timeframe yet to be determined). I want to see lots of pics and carnage from Tellico in 2 weeks.
Click to expand...


Don't worry I won't forget.

Thanks guy for the comments. I welded the knuckles tonight and took some more pics. WIll post tomorrow.
 
Silly question from a welding newbie- did you TIG weld after the cut and turn? I've got a Lincoln 135, and am wondering whether I'll (or I should say, the more experienced person I guilt into welding for me) get enough penetration to get strong welds?

Great writeup, I'm definitely more of a "visual" learner!
 
Millermatic 175 mig

.035

IMG_3873.jpg


I think if you grind the cut out to about a 1/16 from the buttom of the cut you will get good weld penetration. I made sure by watching the sides of the cut to see if they were flowing into the filler material.

I bought my first welder when I was 14 and have been welding ever since; I'm 34 now. Stick and brazing is mostly what I have done. Mig is new to me. I love it though. No slag to deal with and very little splatter. Once you learn the properties of metal and how angles and filler materials interact with them at certain temps and conditions you pretty much can weld with anything. I'm really looking forward to getting my hands on a Tig. :D
 
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Nice write up! I really liked how you took a picture of every step, makes me want to start cutting!

One question though, how come you welded perches under the axle?

Cheers,
Deny
 
Deny said:
Nice write up! I really liked how you took a picture of every step, makes me want to start cutting!

One question though, how come you welded perches under the axle?

Cheers,
Deny
Click to expand...



" You can see how much I needed to grind to make it fit. I used Dodge perches # P4120074 there are two prches in each box. They were $11 dollars a box. You need two boxes. Though it's not nessesary to put a perch on the left bottom side I did anyway. The right side needs something to keep ubolt from slipping off. If you look ata a stock non SOA you will know what I mean. "



Nice write up Troll...



:beer:
 
I am doing this as we speak. I was really concerned about the front diff side perch to make sure it was not creating a "lean". Meaning, to make sure and measure how far from the axle tube to the perch surface. This would make sure that one spring pack was not higher than the other. This is a great write-up, pictures are very nice.

Thanks for the write up, and perfect timing as I am doing all this right now!

-ragman
 
Mad Chemist said:
I've got a Lincoln 135, and am wondering whether I'll (or I should say, the more experienced person I guilt into welding for me) get enough penetration to get strong welds?

!
Click to expand...

The key to successful welding of thicker stock (1/4 inch or more) with a 110V welder, like the Linc 135, is joint preparation. You need to V or U grind joints to the full depth and leave a 1/16 root gap. Weld in 2 or more passes. Remove the slag in between if you are using flux core. Preheating to 400 F wouldn't hurt and do the second and later passes w/o cooling down.
 
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