This was added to the FAQ already, just thought I would post results and the one modification to the method I made.
I Adjusted the carb per Treeroot's and IDave's recoomendations and it runs great warm, starts up fine at cold with a little choke and runs fine then as well. This method was easy and the only thing I did different was used a sponge over the carb instead of putting the filter back on. I couldn't get to the mixture screw easily. My idle now is set at about 650-700 rpm.
Again, credit goes to Treeroot and IDave and I have pasted their instructions below:
Vacuum leaks need to be fixed first. Pull the air cleaner and with the engine running, block off all airflow to the carb. Don't use your hand because it could backfire out the carb. I use a piece of cardboard that is big enough it won't get sucked in. As the engine dies, listen to the idle. If it goes up before it dies, you have a vacuum leak/leaks. If it just dies, proceed to carb adjustments.
If you have a vacuum leak/leaks, best way I know to find them is with water. Carb cleaner/Ether works but burning down you, your house, or your truck isn't fun. Just buy a cheap 1.00 spray bottle. Engine is running and warm so I highly doubt a cracked block is even possible. Mist around the engine on all the hoses and fittings. Anywhere you spray and the engine rpms drop, you have a vacuum leak. Somewhat messy but this is another one of WD-40's many uses as well.
The idle mixture screw is only for idle. If you look at a carb out of the truck, you can see a small hole below the throttle plate. It is very important you have the idle low enough that the engine is running off that hole. There is another above this one and as you increase your idle, you expose the second hole.
Your engine needs to be at operating temp.
Set your idle down all the way. Most Cruisers will allow you to lower it until the engine dies. Turn it up around 450-500 so the engine is slow but running by itself.
Make sure the choke is open completely.
Air cleaner needs to be installed. Even though it makes it harder to adjust, you need it on because it changes the air/fuel ratio.
Hook up a vacuum gage to direct vacuum. Your brake booster hose will work. (be careful not to break the plastic taking it off. Been there )
Adjust for highest vacuum at idle. 15+ inches of mercury at your altitude.
There is a plateau for max vacuum as you open up the idle mixture, and once there, I would then adjust down (tighten) to the point where the vacuum begins to fall. There is some delay in response after an adjustment, so beware. - IDave
Set idle back to spec.
Check timing.
Go through carb adjustments one more time.
Set idle
Grab a beer and let the truck cool down.
Adjust choke cold or if manual, pull until truck runs and go buy more beer. Make sure on both that the choke closed doen't completely block off air to the engine. The stops usually keep it slightly open even when fully closed or choked.
The only reason for a choke is to increase fuel until the intake manifold can warm up. At colder temps, fuel doesn't atomize. Instead it tends to condense on the sides of the intake. Once your truck warms up, this is no longer an issue. Assuming everything else is ok, it should run fine. Keep in mind how well and efficient a Cruiser's intake is designed.......2" vs. 8" to the 1 and 6 cyl doesn't help in the cold.
I Adjusted the carb per Treeroot's and IDave's recoomendations and it runs great warm, starts up fine at cold with a little choke and runs fine then as well. This method was easy and the only thing I did different was used a sponge over the carb instead of putting the filter back on. I couldn't get to the mixture screw easily. My idle now is set at about 650-700 rpm.
Again, credit goes to Treeroot and IDave and I have pasted their instructions below:
Vacuum leaks need to be fixed first. Pull the air cleaner and with the engine running, block off all airflow to the carb. Don't use your hand because it could backfire out the carb. I use a piece of cardboard that is big enough it won't get sucked in. As the engine dies, listen to the idle. If it goes up before it dies, you have a vacuum leak/leaks. If it just dies, proceed to carb adjustments.
If you have a vacuum leak/leaks, best way I know to find them is with water. Carb cleaner/Ether works but burning down you, your house, or your truck isn't fun. Just buy a cheap 1.00 spray bottle. Engine is running and warm so I highly doubt a cracked block is even possible. Mist around the engine on all the hoses and fittings. Anywhere you spray and the engine rpms drop, you have a vacuum leak. Somewhat messy but this is another one of WD-40's many uses as well.
The idle mixture screw is only for idle. If you look at a carb out of the truck, you can see a small hole below the throttle plate. It is very important you have the idle low enough that the engine is running off that hole. There is another above this one and as you increase your idle, you expose the second hole.
Your engine needs to be at operating temp.
Set your idle down all the way. Most Cruisers will allow you to lower it until the engine dies. Turn it up around 450-500 so the engine is slow but running by itself.
Make sure the choke is open completely.
Air cleaner needs to be installed. Even though it makes it harder to adjust, you need it on because it changes the air/fuel ratio.
Hook up a vacuum gage to direct vacuum. Your brake booster hose will work. (be careful not to break the plastic taking it off. Been there )
Adjust for highest vacuum at idle. 15+ inches of mercury at your altitude.
There is a plateau for max vacuum as you open up the idle mixture, and once there, I would then adjust down (tighten) to the point where the vacuum begins to fall. There is some delay in response after an adjustment, so beware. - IDave
Set idle back to spec.
Check timing.
Go through carb adjustments one more time.
Set idle
Grab a beer and let the truck cool down.
Adjust choke cold or if manual, pull until truck runs and go buy more beer. Make sure on both that the choke closed doen't completely block off air to the engine. The stops usually keep it slightly open even when fully closed or choked.
The only reason for a choke is to increase fuel until the intake manifold can warm up. At colder temps, fuel doesn't atomize. Instead it tends to condense on the sides of the intake. Once your truck warms up, this is no longer an issue. Assuming everything else is ok, it should run fine. Keep in mind how well and efficient a Cruiser's intake is designed.......2" vs. 8" to the 1 and 6 cyl doesn't help in the cold.
