mixed about LED door modules (1 Viewer)

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Dixie co. Florida
Over analyzed but anyway:

Finally got free cash for the 80, started with the best bang for buck, LED’s to fix my “dead battery when doors left open” problem. Replacing the weak battery with 2 good ones is next. Ordered Georges LED’s ( good guy ) for the Dome and map but he no longer offers door modules.

For the doors went to www.superbrightleds.com and got "WLED-W4" x4 total $15.36 w/shipping, these are replacements for the 194’s in our doors, I understand “WLED-W6” would also fit and would be brighter but consume more power

Put the doors in tonight, have mixed feelings about them, they are plenty bright but also very directional, most of the light comes out in a tight cone in one way this is nice as it does not blind you when stepping out and the beam will be very visible to other drivers to show an open door from a great distance but they also do not put much light on the ground, much less than the original 360* output incandescent bulbs, I would also prefer a more balanced white light, the Superbright LED’s are a little on the blue side, but not as bad the yellow of the stock bulbs

These pictures have been lightened to about what it looks like to my eye (maybe a little brighter) as they were to dark to show anything before

DoorLed.jpg

DoorLed2.jpg


Going to run them for now for the reduced power draw but later I will build something better optically and relocate these for foot well lighting or something else

Rough electrical math: (somebody double check it in case I missed something)

Stock incandescent bulbs

Doors 3W .25A x 4 = 1A
Domes 10W .83A x 2 = 1.6A
Total 32W 2.66A

That would fully drain an optima yellow top (D34 55AH) in about 20 hours, it would be to weak to start the engine sometime before that, my battery cannot start my 80 after about 8 hours with the door open

LED’s

Doors .24W .02A x 4 = .08A
Domes 1.44W .12A x 2 = .24A
Total 3.84W .32A

This would drain the same battery in 171 hours or just over a week

The other advantage George pointed out was much less heat output witch would prevent the lenses from becoming overheated and discolored
 
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I have the W6 door modules and really like them. It's an excellent, functional, low buck mod. Maybe you should just upgrade to those, you might be happier, and at most it will set you back $10 for all 4.
 
I have George's LED's throughout the truck and really dig them. When did he get the new site up taskled? Didn't know about that.
 
Great info Raven. I've been wanting to get the door modules myself but never spent the time to find them. The differences in current draw is amazing, makes me want to make the switch even more.

I just hate the fact that whem camping I can't leave the rear tailgate open without draining the battery for the door lamps. It really needs a cut-off switch like the overhead.

I've also just considered pulling out the bulbs for the passenger doors because do you really need them.

Thanks again.
 
Riley said:
Great info Raven. I've been wanting to get the door modules myself but never spent the time to find them. The differences in current draw is amazing, makes me want to make the switch even more.

I just hate the fact that whem camping I can't leave the rear tailgate open without draining the battery for the door lamps. It really needs a cut-off switch like the overhead.

I've also just considered pulling out the bulbs for the passenger doors because do you really need them.

Thanks again.

if you got a '91, leaving the tail-gate opened doesn't turn the domes on --

-- and mine's even got intermittent wipers -- :D

e
 
That's cause all the current needs to be saved for the EFI fuse on the 3FE. :bounce:
 
I used both - George's door LEDs and the 194-W6. The 194-W6 is brighter within the 35 degree viewing radius, while George's LED has about a 120 degrees of even lighting. After diffusing thru the door light lens, I think the two lights are pretty even in term of brightness and usable pattern.

FWIW, I have the second gen George's door LEDs, with the LEDs sitting up (not flush) above the board. I bent the two outer LEDs 45 degrees to give the LEDs a wider light pattern.

When I bought the 194-W6 more than a year ago, it was not available from superbright. I had to get it from Asia directly. Now that they are available in the US at a very reasonable price, I would use them in a heartbeat.

The W6s are brighter and wider than the W4s, so you might wnat to give the W6s a try.


John
 
Well, I'd like to do the door modules also; but don't know how to remove it yet. Is it simple as prying out the white lense, or the whole housing, or even the door panel ?
 
Eric:

My '91 is still new to me and I notice that the tailgate does not turn on the lights - thank you for confirming that as normal. But what is the switch on the top of the tailgate do - just make the "door ajar" dash light come on (that's all mine seems to do)?

...sorry for the hijack...

other Eric
 
sjcruiser said:
Well, I'd like to do the door modules also; but don't know how to remove it yet. Is it simple as prying out the white lense, or the whole housing, or even the door panel ?
Take a look at George's site. The instructions are there for the door light replacement.

I just ordered a set of the W6s for the wife's 450 and sent an email to George for a set of the domes for hers as well. Thanks for the bulb number -- I couldn't recall which one's to get from superbrightleds.
 
Eric_FJ40 said:
Eric:

My '91 is still new to me and I notice that the tailgate does not turn on the lights - thank you for confirming that as normal. But what is the switch on the top of the tailgate do - just make the "door ajar" dash light come on (that's all mine seems to do)?

...sorry for the hijack...

other Eric

hey eric --

yep -- that's all i think it does -- which isn't bad to me, since there's no light module near the rear anyway -- !!

-- on my 91, i did the interior lighting thing right -- stuck with incandescent in the map-light (warmer, broader band of light) and wend with LEDs on the 2nds and 3rd row modules --

:D

e
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Do you have room to put in some type of reflector to help disperse the light?
Just a though

Phil

There is a lot of room in the housing but to use a reflector the LED’s would have to face it, right now if I put in a reflector no light would strike it

I am thinking about getting some of these bright white LED’s in bulk and arranging them in an inward facing array and painting the inside of the housing white to act as the reflector, good pure white paint is very efficient at reflecting light, until then the current setup will do just fine,

Cruiserdrew said:
I have the W6 door modules and really like them. It's an excellent, functional, low buck mod. Maybe you should just upgrade to those, you might be happier, and at most it will set you back $10 for all 4.

97 FZJ80 said:
I used both - George's door LEDs and the 194-W6. The 194-W6 is brighter within the 35 degree viewing radius, while George's LED has about a 120 degrees of even lighting. After diffusing thru the door light lens, I think the two lights are pretty even in term of brightness and usable pattern.

FWIW, I have the second gen George's door LEDs, with the LEDs sitting up (not flush) above the board. I bent the two outer LEDs 45 degrees to give the LEDs a wider light pattern.

When I bought the 194-W6 more than a year ago, it was not available from superbright. I had to get it from Asia directly. Now that they are available in the US at a very reasonable price, I would use them in a heartbeat.

The W6s are brighter and wider than the W4s, so you might wnat to give the W6s a try.


John

Yep sounds like the W6’s are then ones to get, might just do that also,


Junk said:
I have George's LED's throughout the truck and really dig them. When did he get the new site up taskled? Didn't know about that.

I think the new site went up a few months ago,

Riley said:
Great info Raven. I've been wanting to get the door modules myself but never spent the time to find them. The differences in current draw is amazing, makes me want to make the switch even more.

I just hate the fact that whem camping I can't leave the rear tailgate open without draining the battery for the door lamps. It really needs a cut-off switch like the overhead.

I've also just considered pulling out the bulbs for the passenger doors because do you really need them.

Thanks again.

hmm maybe a kill switch inline with the tailgae sensor mounted somewhere in the back? I have not into a situation where I would want the door out for light reasons but power draw has been bothering me


:idea:


Have some ideas for these LED’s in other places, George sells loose driver boards and Luxeon’s I would like to put two on the inside of the lift gate to give shadow free overhead light on the tailgate and surrounding areas, and somehow only come on with the lift gate being open (diode isolation?), a well lit tailgate would make a nice workstation for repairs or camp cooking loading/unloading reading ect haven’t figured out the details on that one yet

Also it really ticks me off that Toyota did not include an under hood light, one at each foreword corner of the hood facing the engine bay would light it nicely (very little shadow) for road repairs or just checking the fluids at the gas station, not sure how they hold up to the heat and moisture of that environment, I’ll have to ask George if anything can be done to seal them from moisture and if they can stand the heat, I assume the LED’s and driver boards can be separate? keepign the driver board in the cab would help, incandesents might be better here

Also think they would look cool in the parking lights but that is approaching bling :doh:
 
NorCalDoug,

Thank you for the tip - I'll get the door leds soon.

Raventai,

Don't know about other models, but pretty sure 82-85 Supras have under hood lights - you might wanna check out the local junkyards.

Frank.
 
You might also want to consider getting George's LED map light. They are actually very bright and works well. It sure makes the interior light color uniform (white :) )

Seriously, the map LEDs (2 Luxeons) puts out some serious light, which is really needed when I actually turn on the map light.


John
 
I've been meaning to upgrade my door lights as well, am bummed to hear that George no longer makes them, I've been very happy with his dome lights for the past two years and I wanted to give him the repeat business. Can someone please confirm that this is what I want to buy?


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Select LED Color RedAmber

WLED-6 LED bulb
12 VDC 6-LED Wedge Base bulb (194/168 type)
Our brightest bulb of this type
Non Polarized
Select White, Blue or Red LED color
$ 2.99

edit: sorry my previous link didn't work, here's a better one anyway http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/bulb_specs.htm
 
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That's the right bulb, but it seems that they only have the red and amber available now. BTW, they charge an extra $0.60 for the white LEDs for this bulb -- not sure why white's gotta cost more...I just paid it. Great price for the bulbs, so I didn't care much.

Maybe the excitement from this thread depleated their supply of the white bulbs.
 
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sjcruiser said:
NorCalDoug,

Don't know about other models, but pretty sure 82-85 Supras have under hood lights - you might wanna check out the local junkyards.

Frank.


Thanks for the tip :) I think LEDs might be a waste out there,

Got Georges LED's in last night in both the domes and map, much happier with those :bounce: , much brighter than the oem bulbs, much cooler also, burned my fingers pulling the old bulbs out even after being off for several minutes, the color is much more balanced white than both the superbrights (blue) or the OEM (yellow)

if YOU dont have 'em yet go get 'em :flipoff2:
 

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