I'm in process of a tcase rebuild - looking for some parts (1 Viewer)

mr_manny · Mar 14, 2007

A buddy is taking the time to show me how to rebuild my 3spd Tcase, and it looks like I could use replacements for the following items:

Both selector forks
One 10spline input gear (primary drive gear)

Anyone have these items collecting dust?

Here's a little technique to removing the output shaft.
Insert bar and utilize internal housing step to brace gear and hit w/plastic mallet

I was shocked when I realized what's involved to operate our front DS :O

2whl drive:

4whl drive:

Hard to believe it's all about this sliding sleeve.

my new beverage holder

SPARE housing (74?)

This project is just another example of how our cruiser community ROCKS!!

Rodney, I really appreciate you taking the time to show me how to do this right.
It is appreciated

manny

mr_manny · Mar 14, 2007

Just talked to Georg...he's an hour away from Katemcy.

If he makes it back, he has the parts I need.

Thanks G :beer:

FJ40Jim · Mar 14, 2007

mr_manny said:
SPARE housing (74?)

The case date code is stamped on the pad shown.

Suarez0523 · Mar 14, 2007

Great thing that you are documenting this...it is always a learning experience here in Mud

BTW. I want a freaking Newcastle now............... Damn work!!!!!!!!!!!!

Alz Toy · Mar 14, 2007

Prod Date Code

Hey Jim, how do you desipher the date code? I have a case that has- top line 91231, bottom line- 2 J 7. I " think " its a '72 case, as it came behind a floor shift 3 spd tranny, but is there a " formula " the average joe can go by? Thanks, Al

FJ40Jim · Mar 14, 2007

Top line is the part number.

Second line is standard Toyota date code.

mr_manny · Mar 30, 2007

Just about finished my tcase late last night (pics will follow)...

I found that I was missing both the front output, and input seals

Also, we tried to salvage the front 2/4whl selector fork...but it wasn't meant to be

Does anyone have a descent spare?

thanks,
manny

mr_manny · Apr 11, 2007

ok, where did I leave off...

Start w/some clean tcase parts ala TopLoader
Thanks again for taking care of me Mark :beer:

and gaskets, bearings

Thanks again Georg for the hi/low fork and gear I needed :beer:

Beverage of choice...tonight it's Marzen

One item that is not always replaced is the button...kinda like a freeze plug

You might get away with reusing your old thrust washers, but the roller bearings definitely need to be replaced

We began the evening w/some grease and bearings and don't forget the spacer

Remember that the thrust washers have a key-way

Good lighting and patience will aid in aligning the gear/thrust washers/shims in case for installation of large shaft
(I remember there are some o-rings you also have to deal with)

Replace output shaft roller bearing

mr_manny · Apr 11, 2007

We did not have to press on any of the brass bushings, as everything was in good shape.
But if you do, remember to align the oil passages

Place the gear and selector sleeve inside of case before installing output shaft

Attach gear/washer and bearing and insert into case

Current state of installed output shaft

The rear shaft will also get a gearing and washer

Brace the case before installing the rear bearing race

The race has a stop in the case...which will position it below the case.
Make sure you the race is fully seated

Now your ready for a spacer and the speedo gear...this pic gives you an idea how your speedometer gets it's signal.

Install new rear seal and assemble speedo shaft into housing before installation
(There is also some felt and an o-ring)

mr_manny · Apr 11, 2007

Now were ready to move onto the front

Install race into tcase cone

Install bearing onto front haft of output shaft

Install 2/4 selector sleeve before you attach the front cone (w/front shaft installed) onto tcase

Now your ready for the Hi/Low fork/shaft install (more o-rings)

Install ball/spring/plug and test for feel...adjust plug if necessary.
It will be harder to move the selector w/o a leaver (no leverage)...you want it to feel SOLID.

Moving onto the top cover, if you want to improve the venting, here's a good option

Tap for a 1/4 NPT fitting

Your front 2/4 cover will have some felt and an oring.

Tried to save my old fork, but it wasn't meant to be
still looking for a good used fork...

Front

Back
New Parking-brake Drum bolts are on the way...cheap insurance.

Even though the case install remains, I am really pleased w/this project.

If you get satisfaction from working on your own rig, and have thought of rebuilding your tcase...
I hope this thread helps.
Always refer to your fj manual for torque specs.

Rodney...what can I say,
I really appreciate you talking the time to show me how to re-Build my tcase.
This learning experience/opportunity is definitely one I will remember...

Thank you again,
manny

mr_manny · Apr 22, 2007

Scored the 2/4whl fork I was looking for...thank you Stockton swap-meet

Josie'sLandCruiser · Apr 22, 2007

Hi All:

Nice thread, "Manny!"

I'm surprised you are not including some sort of "t-case saver" in this re-build?

Regards,

Alan

redcorn · Apr 22, 2007

sweet work and write up Manny

BELMONT148 · Aug 24, 2007

Really nice write up Manny. I was looking as I am doing a rebuild now. I have a question about your bearing preload on your output shaft. You seem to have skipped this step by fully seating the rear bearing race and not using the proper shims behind the speedo gear housing. Did I miss it? Or is it not necessary?

Jeremy

mr_manny · Aug 24, 2007

Jeremy,

You may have noticed that the rear race does not have a step in the case, so it will adjust as everything everything is torqued.

Some people use a Fish-Scale to measure the Preload...others simply go by feel.

The Cruiser Tcases are pretty accurate, so if you continue to use the original rear output shims in your rebuild...you will be good.

I understand Orion cases are not so forgiving ;p

Preload is important...thanks for asking the question

manny

dgangle · Aug 24, 2007

Josie'sLandCruiser said:
Hi All:

Nice thread, "Manny!"

I'm surprised you are not including some sort of "t-case saver" in this re-build?

Regards,

Alan

..or the Mudrack double seal trick....

phocus · Aug 24, 2007

Great thread, very informative. Thanks Manny.

braines · Apr 26, 2010

So, after the 2+ years, how do you like the 4spd conversion? Worth it? Would you recommend it to others with a 3spd?

Rock40 · Oct 31, 2016

Might be helpful to others....by far the hardest part of rebuilding a 3 speed case is removing the roller bearing from the main shaft. There's no way to grab it and it's in there TIGHT. After rebuilding multiple cases, this is best method I've found.

Break the inner race with a punch, it's not very solid and the roller bearings will fall out

Rock40 · Oct 31, 2016

Now the outer race will be stuck fast inside the main shaft. I use a high speed carbide cutter/grinder to split the race. Be careful when doing this, the idea is to ONLY cut the race

Groove cut in the outer race, ready to split it apart...

Use a very thin punch to get under the outer race and push it away from the main shaft...

I'm in process of a tcase rebuild - looking for some parts (1 Viewer)

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mr_manny

mr_manny

FJ40Jim

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Alz Toy

FJ40Jim

The Cruiser Whisperer

mr_manny

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mr_manny

mr_manny

mr_manny

Josie'sLandCruiser

Stop calling it a "FJ."

redcorn

BELMONT148

mr_manny

dgangle

total rice

phocus

braines

Rock40

Rock40

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Stop calling it a "FJ."

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