OK, (72 w/manual stearing) I have the clamp OFF the tub/box connection, the two bolts at the dash are OUT. I yanked on the wheel, beat on it with a hammer, pryed it with a bar and it still wont slide out? WTF am I missing?
Stearing colum removal (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Wildman
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See if this post helps...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=73592&highlight=steering+column+remove
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=73592&highlight=steering+column+remove
- Thread starter
- #3
A little bit... still confused I have to disassemblemy box?? F that! I am going with a mini box, might just get the sawzall and rip theru the whole thing...
If you are putting in a new box, what's the hesitation just cutting it? I did that on my 66-the old style with worm gear on the shaft. Machined the "D" shape into end of shaft to accept Borgison u-joint which had splines on other end for mini truck steering box. Nice and tidy looking.
- Thread starter
- #5
Yes I am, putting in a new box, mini truck. my concerne is that if I cut it right at the stock box, it will be too short. where did you cut yours?
Did you photograph any of this?
If so, please start a thread and post them up.
Thank you.
OK, hope this pic flies ok. I just can't seem to take enough photos while I'm working on stuff. I consider myself lucky if I don't break anything! Anyway, this has been covered very well before. I do like the Borgeson u-joint. A bit spendy...around $100 with the vibration damper and in stainless. It is available polished but I didn't go for it. I cut just above the steering box originally. After mounting the bearing on the firewall and marking length accurately, I cut, milled the "D" fitting, countersunk set screw and hooked it all up. Real close fit next to the firewall bulkhead as you may be able to tell. Re-used my stock pitman arm. Not sure what else to say the may be useful.
oh yeah, pillow block bearing was about $18 at maguiars bearing in Tacoma. Fabbed inner stuff to fit.
oh yeah, pillow block bearing was about $18 at maguiars bearing in Tacoma. Fabbed inner stuff to fit.
Wait until you have the minitruck box mounted and the joint in hand before you cut. The mini truck box is 3/4 inch longer (in the direction of the shaft) than the non PS cruiser box.
Righ on Pin Head, I did have the box mounted...bottom line is to leave as much length initially as possible, then cut to fit. The Borgeson joint is called their vibration reducer/u-joint combo (VJ) It comes with a double "d" in I think .75" and I judt told them it needed to be splined for the 79 - 85 toyota 4wd truck box. Check out www.borgeson.com for some great products and ideas.
- Thread starter
- #11
Pin-Head: already cut it 
thats the down side of having the comp at the shop. But I did cut it long and I believe that ill have plenty to work with like amanda did.
Amandap: I was noticing that your column comes down to your pillow block on the inside of the truck and then just the stearing shaft comes out to the box. Did you make a flange to support that at the firewall? Is it jsut stuck into the rubber boot?
There are a couple reasons why I ask. I had planned on cutting the accual colum tube back, making a flange to the firewall to support it, (I am using a 76 cowel and the hole is bigger that the 72) along with the clamps at the dash. Then there is a bearing that can be pressed into the top behind the wheel. *rember there is just a rubber bushing there stock* That way I would have 2 support points, and make it a little smoother to drive.
Or am I just over thinking it all
thats the down side of having the comp at the shop. But I did cut it long and I believe that ill have plenty to work with like amanda did. Amandap: I was noticing that your column comes down to your pillow block on the inside of the truck and then just the stearing shaft comes out to the box. Did you make a flange to support that at the firewall? Is it jsut stuck into the rubber boot?
There are a couple reasons why I ask. I had planned on cutting the accual colum tube back, making a flange to the firewall to support it, (I am using a 76 cowel and the hole is bigger that the 72) along with the clamps at the dash. Then there is a bearing that can be pressed into the top behind the wheel. *rember there is just a rubber bushing there stock* That way I would have 2 support points, and make it a little smoother to drive.
Or am I just over thinking it all
