Real time ?: knuckle rebuild (Knuckle seal orientation) (1 Viewer)

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secretagent

secretagent

Joined
Jul 28, 2004
Threads
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Location
Medford, Oregon
Hello all, I'm rebuilding the knuckles on my FJ40 and forgot how the seals on the back of the knuckles came off :whoops:

Is it felt, rubber and split ring? I dunno?

Also can I use the knuckle moly grease as whell bearing grease?

Thanks in advance, Greg :beer:
 
Split ring goes into the back of the knuckle first, with the split on the upper part of the knuckle...

Rubber ring is installed on top of the split ring....

Felt is installed on top of the rubber ring...

The metal half clamps are then attached to the knuckle with the 6mmx1.0x8mm bolts...



Do not over-tighten the small bolts and distort the tin covers.

Use blue locktite on those bolts, snug them up and call it good.
 
secretagent said:
Thanks Steve, can I use the moly grease on the wheel bearings?
Click to expand...



I don't....but I have read that others have...


I use a quality wheel bearing grease.


:beer:
 
lol

Why does the split ring go before the rubber?? I always have used it to keep the rubber O ring in place..

rubba/split/felt/overtorqued outer shields.
 
Mace said:
lol

Why does the split ring go before the rubber?? I always have used it to keep the rubber O ring in place..

rubba/split/felt/overtorqued outer shields.
Click to expand...




You have a book handy?

I am away from mine....


Now you have me wondering bud.... :confused:



Thank you Mr. Morgan! <---- this is a link :beer:
ins_wiper_seals-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
The ring sits closest to the knuckle in the recess made for it.:flipoff2: Then the rubber, then the felt, then the metal half moons.

Funny-I helped a guy fix a birf at Rubithon whose axles were done by a well known Cruiser shop in SoCal. Guess what-done wrong.
 
It is metal ring first in the Chassis and Body FSM.
 
But, if you put the rubba gasket in then the ring it fits too. And will keep the rubber ring centered...

Never said you guys were wrong, just that why have the ring at all???

The stepped area could be shallower and no ring necessary..
 
Mace said:
But, if you put the rubba gasket in then the ring it fits too. And will keep the rubber ring centered...

Never said you guys were wrong, just that why have the ring at all???

The stepped area could be shallower and no ring necessary..
Click to expand...

I have wondered this as well. I'm no expert, but this diagram shows that there's a gap (filled with grease) at the outer edge of the tapered roller bearing. I'm thinking that maybe the metal inner ring (9) prevents the rubber inner oil seal (10) from collapsing into that space.
rings (Medium).jpg
 
Mace said:
But, if you put the rubba gasket in then the ring it fits too. And will keep the rubber ring centered...

Never said you guys were wrong, just that why have the ring at all???

The stepped area could be shallower and no ring necessary..
Click to expand...



Using the thin metal ring first, I would imagine has something to do with making the back of the knuckle housing seal closer to the knuckle ball, and closing up the large gaps that are present because of needing to make the knuckle housing larger than the ball, so that the knuckle will fit over the ball......when the ring is first, there is maybe an eight-inch clearance between the ball and knuckle housing.
 
makes sense to me.. Guess I have to take my knuckles apart ;)
 
Poser said:
Now you have me wondering bud.... :confused:

:
Click to expand...

don't wonder. second guesses are usually wrong

it is split ring closest to knuckle housing, then rubber, felt and the 2 half pieces.
 
The responses are very much appreciated. I was with Mace at first, seems like the "logical" way to put it together but logical is not wlays correct>

Thanks again, Greg :beer:
 
nuclearlemon said:
don't wonder. second guesses are usually wrong

it is split ring closest to knuckle housing, then rubber, felt and the 2 half pieces.
Click to expand...

My first guess was right. lol. But I didn't want to screw anyone up and when Steve is second guessing himself I'm backing out.:D

Better to ask questions take your time and get it right. I cannot tell you how many times I've rushed getting a knuckle back on only to realize I forgot the felt, rubber seal, and metal ring and had to take the whole thing back apart.:crybaby:
 
Hey guys. I'm in the middle of my axle overhaul. I did the bearing preload to 8 ft-lbs, but when after I installed the seals, this has gone up to around 18. Will this go back down after they wear in a little bit? Should I be worried?
 
use Bobby's lifetime wiper seals and call it good...
 
Has anyone seen this set up before in the swivel hubs or the stub axle/axle assembly.
IMG_1179.JPG
IMG_1180.JPG
IMG_1181.JPG
IMG_1182.JPG
IMG_1183.JPG
 
That is the 67 and earlier " ball and claw" axle.

The bushing is your inner axle "seal"
 
destructomatt said:
Hey guys. I'm in the middle of my axle overhaul. I did the bearing preload to 8 ft-lbs, but when after I installed the seals, this has gone up to around 18. Will this go back down after they wear in a little bit? Should I be worried?
Click to expand...


I realize this is an old post, however I wanted to address the question.

Yes, is the correct answer, your knuckle bearing pre load will increase significantly with the wiper seals on the back of the knuckle. After you get some grease in the knuckle and it finds its way onto the rubber seal on the back of the knuckle, things will move a little easier.

:beer:
 
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