Major Repair$ (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

EdsCruisin

EdsCruisin

Joined
Sep 30, 2006
Threads
35
Messages
817
Location
Baltimore
Help me out here - I just spent about $650 to replace an accelerator pedal position sensor, and I just had my '00 LC towed in again because it will not start. By description is sounds like the starter contacts that are mentioned in the FAQs. Although I have the tools and expertise to fix it all myself, I don't have the time. It looks like another $700 repair. My wife is going to kill me if this keeps up.

How many more of these repairs should I be budgeting for? The LC has 72K miles on it and is in great shape. I already bought tires and a battery. What's Next???
 
no idea, im on my second 100 with only one front differntial going. first one i put on over 85,000 and this one i have over 80000
 
Starter contacts usually give you some "notice" and don't just give out on you.

$650 to replace what? The throttle position sensor only costs $63...
 
It wasn't the TPS, it was the Accelerator Pedal Position sensor, which is inside the throttle body. The TPS is a cheaper part and in a servicable position. The APPS is about $270 plus as much in labor to remove the throttle body. While they were in there I had them clean it out too.

Go figure, this model has a cable from the pedal to the throttle body and then it relies on electronics to decide whether to accelerate or not. I'm glad I was not off road when this died. As I understand it, there is not even a cable from the pedal in the newer models. Drive by wire is our future.

As far as starting, I was having trouble starting over a month or so period, where it would work fine, and then the next morning nothing. I could jump it, or try several times with the key and then it would start. Now I can't jump it either and the battery has a good charge and clean terminals. The tests are underway right now, so I don't have the results yet. I am having this problem with my John Deere too, which I can usually override with a heavy jump charge, but that problem is definitely the starter/solenoid.
 
That stinks, your mechanic was part of the way to the starter contacts when he had to get into the throttle body and yes the symptoms you describe in the last post are spot on for worn contacts. Hopefully you get the contacts taken care of and get some trouble free miles.
 
Tad, you're right both times. It was confirmed the contacts are the culprit. But I sold my spare vehicle to afford this beast, so I need to have it fixed right away. Of course this is a LC which is the ultimate low volume vehicle that translates into "parts on order." Needless to say, $$ I was hoping to put towards a nice set of bumpers is now gone, just to keep it running.

Back to the original question - what else should I be looking out for that is a "must fix to operate" item? At least I can limp my wife's van along with an engine that sounds like a tricycle on steroids. This cruiser just plain stops.
 
EdsCruisin said:
Help me out here - I just spent about $650 to replace an accelerator pedal position sensor, and I just had my '00 LC towed in again because it will not start. By description is sounds like the starter contacts that are mentioned in the FAQs. Although I have the tools and expertise to fix it all myself, I don't have the time. It looks like another $700 repair. My wife is going to kill me if this keeps up.

How many more of these repairs should I be budgeting for? The LC has 72K miles on it and is in great shape. I already bought tires and a battery. What's Next???
Click to expand...

Tires are a normal wear item, it's not like you couldn't see that and budget them in. Same goes for the battery. As far as the other repairs, it sounds like you have had warning, the starter contacts are a known issue.
 
What were your symptoms for the APPS? Did you get a check engine light, what code?

-once in a while I get CEL P1121 "manufacturer control fuel air metering" - I will press down on gas pedal and nothing happens, I would have to press all the way down to get the truck to move, during the whole time the truck is revving to 1200 rpm's. I usually just restart the truck and it works fine, sometimes I have to do it a couple of times to go back to normal.

Thanks!
 
I don't have it in front of me now, but I believe that was the code, and definitely the symptom. The codes were 1120 and 1121. The check engine, ACS and VSC lights all come on and stay on. The vehicle then goes into "limp" mode limiting you to 25% power to get to a dealer for service. I was able to restart and drive normal too, but the lights stayed on.
 
As far as other common issues, the TPS pops up on this board although I have not had any experience with that one, and leaking CV boots can crop up in the 80-120k mile range. That's pretty much the most common items left. Me personally I'm at 143,000 and rising with having to do just the starter contacts and cv boots. I really consider them both more maintenance items wearing at 80-100,000 miles but if you're not prepared then they can definitely ruin your plans for trouble free miles!
 
Its interesting to me how expensive some LC are to own where others are so inexpensive. I bought my 100 in October of 1997 when they first came out ( I sure do miss the 90's) and have about 180k on it now. It has had a sheltered life, I follow all the service requirements and have been fairly gentle to it. Having said that, it has had several trips to the jungles in Central America and many miles on bad Mexican roads where potholes are the size of a truck tire. Not one sensor has gone bad and other than shocks, no suspension componets have been replaced. CV boots are good and engine and transmission are perfect. If I had the expenses of multiple repairs I would fall out of love and sell it in a heart beat. I have never had a vehicle this long with this many miles and both my sons hope I get tired of it and give it to them. I've driven a new LC and quite frankly, there's not a whole lot of difference. Maybe in 08...
 
I agree wholeheartedly. Even the $ I spent on boots and contacts are items that will eventually wear so I don't consider them to truly be repair items. Throw those out and all I do is fluids, filters, tires, and gas. Lots of gas. :D
 
Part of the problem is the internet search bias. People with expensive and/or hard to troubleshoot problems search the internet and find this site. This creates the appearance of more problems per vehicle than really exist.

Also dealer ignorance and greed can lead to very high repair bills for relatively minor problems.

We call these repairs expensive but they are often only the cost of one months payment on a comparable new vehicle. (thats what I'm telling my self as I gear up for my timing belt job)
 
Since you mentioned timing belt……shouldn’t you mention how much this is going cost???
 
I have $300 in parts sitting in my garage from a recent trip to American Toyota. Not all are for the timing belt though. I also got everything I needed for the starter contact job, plus a few odds and ends.

I plan to do it myself when time allows. So very low labor costs at $5.15 an hour (I'm probably not worth that for auto repairs but Uncle Sam kindly sets a floor :) )
 
NMuzj100 said:
I have $300 in parts sitting in my garage from a recent trip to American Toyota. Not all are for the timing belt though. I also got everything I needed for the starter contact job, plus a few odds and ends.

I plan to do it myself when time allows. So very low labor costs at $5.15 an hour (I'm probably not worth that for auto repairs but Uncle Sam kindly sets a floor :) )
Click to expand...

If you need help or anything let me know. I take it you didn’t move to CO?
 
Actually made the move. I finally have a garage to do the work in now I just need a break from work. Just returned to ABQ for a haircut and a visit to American Toyota (thats why I stocked up :D ).

Profile updated now. Thanks for the offer of assistance. Just watch the board for my realtime cries for help.:)
 
Replacing the timing belt on the 100 is easier than on a Camry (either 4 or 6) because there's more room. The camry is a real knuckle scraper. The costs for parts rise because of the replacement of the water pump and seals while you are in there. I find the 100 a pleasure to work on and I am constantly impressed with the engineering...so well designed and so few compromises.
 
exhaust manifold...?
 
What about the exhaust manifold?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Transmission - Repair or Replace
Replies
6
Views
352
BigFatHundo
B
C
Need opinions on collision repair
Replies
19
Views
978
Fairgame
F
M
  • Question
Transmission Repair Shop Suggestions
Replies
2
Views
817
vipergrhd
vipergrhd
L
Good Landcruiser repair shop Salt Lake Utah area
Replies
2
Views
281
saucebox
saucebox

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom