Spare Tire Modifications (2 Viewers)

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FirstToy said:
Gregb,
with the VSC you can't use a different size spare with the 4 larger tires. Is there a contingincy plan for this?
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I realize Derek and SinCity already answered most of this, but I'd like to clarify a little bit. First off, the BFG website lists the 295 AT's diameter as 33.2 inches and the 255 MT's diameter as 33.3 inches. Once the two are mounted, they measure within 1/16 of an inch of each other from the ground to the bottom edge of the wheel. Both tires had 35 lbs of air pressure in them. Width doesn't play a part in this situation.

As for rear world usage, I did drive it around on Sunday and had no issues with any ABS feature throughout the drive.
 
Good thinking Greg on your spare tire mod: What a wealth of resources we have here on 'daMUD!
 
Thanks Spresso and others for all the compliments! Hopefully it will help some others if they decide to go this route.

By the way, I ordered my Slee rear bumper without the tire carrier yesterday. I'll have it painted and installed within a couple of weeks. Gotta get this rig ready for Moab!
 
nice writeup, I'll put it in the FAQ.

I did something similar on the 80. In that case it only lifted the front of the tire because of some obstacle in the rear. The winch had to be lowered and is less easy to operate than before, though. So this one may be better.

Main concern I have, though, is that the mod may give a false sense of security. Aside from the unexpected encounter with an obstacle during "normal" driving, for which a couple of inches may save the day, I have pretty much concluded that I don't want to leave the spare under there when wheeling. Given that it seems that I am dragging my tail everywhere, it just takes a small rock to slash a $200 tire. Not good. Now I just remove the spare and bring it up.
 
e9999 said:
nice writeup, I'll put it in the FAQ.
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Thanks!

e9999 said:
Main concern I have, though, is that the mod may give a false sense of security. Aside from the unexpected encounter with an obstacle during "normal" driving, for which a couple of inches may save the day, I have pretty much concluded that I don't want to leave the spare under there when wheeling. Given that it seems that I am dragging my tail everywhere, it just takes a small rock to slash a $200 tire. Not good. Now I just remove the spare and bring it up.
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I see you're point on the false sense of security. You definitely have to watch the tire when dropping off ledges.

However, I've got a plan for this too. My intention from the beginning was to add a Slee Rear bumper without a tire carrier and then do this mod to raise the spare. My goal is to get the spare as high as possible because I plan to build a skid plate to protect the spare. I need the Slee bumper on though to build the skid plate as I plan on connecting the two for strength.

But, this is a new topic for a different thread. (coming soon :) )

By the way, if one did this mod and left the factory tow hitch on, one could easily build a basic skid that covers the spare. A spacer/bracket could be attached to the frame or tow hitch or both to support the skid plate.
 
hoser said:
Great write-up. I thought about doing the same thing but abandoned the idea when I couldn't find a suitable 35x9.5-16 tire. 255/85-16 is much easier to find.
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Have you seen the Interco SSR 35x10.5R16? It has a 9" tread width and 10.5" center section width. They are quite tame on road. I wouldn't use it as a primary tire as you'd only get 25k out of them. But for a spare...
 
Thanks Kneel-- yes, I almost bought that one tire for a spare. The center section on their website says 11.1" wide and 35.3" tall but, yes, it was the most narrow 35" tire I could find. I ended up going with a Kumho 315/75-16 my friend had in stock for cheap.
 
Great info Greg.

HOw important is it to keep the bars inthe front and back.

I am all about taking every piece off that I don't need and if I can just raise the crossbar and move the tire up 1.5" and unbolt the other crap and pitch it I will.
 
When I spaced my 80 series one up many years ago, I removed the front bar, used a 6" rim, and 255 for a spare, so it sat up as high under the chassis as I could get it.

My truck had the rear aux tank standard, but it had a 30mm [1 1/4"] body lift, so this was how far I spaced up the spare winch x member.

As long as the winch has a chain, and not a cable [they were recalled here and replaced because the cables wear and break off.] and the tyre winds up tight, against something, as high as it can go, front or rear, to take the torsion vibration away from the x member, then you could not use the factory "bars".
 
wngrog said:
Great info Greg.

HOw important is it to keep the bars inthe front and back.

I am all about taking every piece off that I don't need and if I can just raise the crossbar and move the tire up 1.5" and unbolt the other crap and pitch it I will.
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I'm not sure if it would hurt anything. The big issue is what will the tire rub on instead of those bars. If you pull the bars and add the spacers, you could then crank up the spare and check to see where/what the tire rubs on. Then, if you see something that may rub/damage the tire, you could always add the bars back. Total time for me to move and adjust those two bars was about 30 minutes or less.
 
ats4x4dotcom said:
As long as the winch has a chain, and not a cable [they were recalled here and replaced because the cables wear and break off.] and the tyre winds up tight, against something, as high as it can go, front or rear, to take the torsion vibration away from the x member, then you could not use the factory "bars".
Click to expand...

That's very interesting. I wondered about the strength of that cable when I was moving the mount; especially with a heavier tire than the stock spare. I hadn't heard anyone mention any failures yet, so I assumed that it must not be an issue. Now you've got me thinking I better address that before I end up losing the spare. So, Toyota provided a new winch that uses a chain or do you just add a chain to the existing winch? Thanks for the heads up. :cheers:
 
wngrog said:
There is nothing under your truck that can hurt your tire.

The aussies are in a different league with wagon use. Your cable will be fine.
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Then go for it! Let us know how the tire fits after you raise the mount and lose the bars. No worries on the cable then; thanks. :cheers:
 
wngrog said:
Anyone know of a narrow rim for a 100 series bolt pattern?
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Just as you can have your OEM alloy wheels widened, you can have them narrowed. They cut part of the center section out and weld it all back together. Can probably narrow it to 5-6 inches. Here is one place that does it. There are a few others.
http://internetalternatives.com/wshoppe/wwiden.htm

Another option is a custom wheel from the Stockton Wheel Company.
http://www.stocktonwheel.com/
 
wngrog said:
Anyone know of a narrow rim for a 100 series bolt pattern?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Nolen,

Bruce Lowen in Calgary has a bunch of take-off's from 79 series mine rigs. (Same bolt pattern in a 16 x 6 rim). I plan to get some for mine and will run a skinny 35" Interco tire for wheeling....gives the 100 that 3rd world poverty pack look I love so much:D

PM me if your'e interested and I'll give you his email addy...
 
We have the 105 series which is a good offset for the 100 ifs as a 16 x 6" rim also, [105= 80 chassis, 100 body here]

Toyota changed over the winches on recall, from cable to chain, as some people would get a flat, go to wind down the spare, and it wouldnt be there, just a frayed cable end.

I think Christo's internal mount is great for like Cruise Moab, spare under, drive to Moab, set up camp, put spare in back and wheel all week, then put it back under to fit the gear back in for the trip home.
 
dieselbigot said:
Nolen,

Bruce Lowen in Calgary has a bunch of take-off's from 79 series mine rigs. (Same bolt pattern in a 16 x 6 rim). I plan to get some for mine and will run a skinny 35" Interco tire for wheeling....gives the 100 that 3rd world poverty pack look I love so much:D

PM me if your'e interested and I'll give you his email addy...
Click to expand...

I read that thread and was scared off because it was a split rim and needed a tube.

I will try the 235/85/16 on my stock rim. Not optimal, but it will be fine.

I would love one of those 105 wheels next time you send a load of stuff to Chirsto :)
 
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