Here you go. The rear end install was rained out. I will complete that next weekend.
100 Series OME Lift Instructions/Commentary
I did not take any pics due to the fact that I think between the FSM and these instructions, the install is very straight forward. Not easy, but straight forward. I have divided the lift into parts-front and back because I know that there are some that are only interested in lifting the front to match the rear and/or adding T bars only so that a winch/bumper can be installed.
Front
OME T bar and shock installation
Tools needed:
• Large lift (jack)
• 2 jack stands
• Breaker bar
• Penetrating oil
• ¾, 7/8, 12mm, 22mm. 24mm and 30mm socket, ¾ and 7/8 open end. I chose std. for some because my Craftsman set has a 6 point set on the std. sockets i.e. better grip and less likelihood of stripping.
• Large channel locks
• Help would be great but know it can be completed by yourself-I did this alone with both kids playing in the cabin of the 100.
• Copper hammer or regular hammer with drive block
• For first time, 8 hours of install time. I could do it in 4 hours after this lift experience
1. Pre lubricate all bolts involved in the install. This would mean both bolts for each shock, torque arm bolts, anchor arm bolt, rear stabilizer bolts, lateral control rod bolts. I recommend Toyota’s penetrating oil and lubricant or Kroils’s aerosol. I would recommend doing this at least three days straight prior to install. Depending on the climate, this might not be necessary. My 100 came from Cleveland, had more rust than usual and I did the three day route and was very happy I did.
2. Measure ride height by measuring top of rim to bottom of fender lip. This is with vehicle on the ground, suspension loaded. This measurement, + 2 inches is what you will need to reference when the front end install is complete i.e. you will need to adjust the T bars so that ride height has only increased 2 inches OR, according to OME, that you have at least 3 inches of droop/wheel travel. My ride height was 11.5” from top of wheel (not tire) to the center of the bottom fender lip.
3. Block Rear wheels
4. Lift front end of truck by placing lift in the center of the front diff cross member support. You must have a decent jack that has a high lift capacity or you will not be able to work on the front end. I am not a fan of placing a small lift on a block, but I suppose that can be done as well.
5. If you don’t own a pneumatic, you will need to leave the tires on the ground just a bit so you can take off the wheels by hand. If you own a pneumatic, lift the front end so that the suspension is at full droop i.e. wheels off ground.
6. Remove wheels/tires with 24mm socket.
7. Place a jack stand on left and right side frame rails. This will be a temporary position but is necessary for safety while you remove the chassis/engine cover.
8. Remove chassis cover using a 12mm socket and place to the side.
9. Take the jack stands on the frame rails and move them to the far ends of the cross member right behind the front diff cross member. It is the cross member that will be closest to the torque arm. This cannot be seen until after you remove the chassis/engine cover. I typically leave the lift in place and lower it until the jack stands and the lift are carrying the load. Personal preference at this point in terms of your safety.
10. Regardless of side, take the bottom shock mount bolts off using a 3/4 socket and open end. My shocks were factory and they were tight. Breaker bar necessary. I did not worry about trying to break the bolt loose and hold the bolt head with the open end. I broke it loose with the breaker and then used both to take off the bolt.
11. Remove top bolt. It will be necessary to hold the top of the piston (shock) or else the bolt will just spin. This particular bolt was on very very tight. Mine required some flame/lubricant/flame process to break it. Remove shock. Repeat on other side. As a side note, my N133 shocks had different bolt sizes. One was ¾ on the top and one was 7/8. Both shocks read N133 on the piston very clearly. Not sure what is up with that.
12. If you need brakes, now is the time to change out ( :
13. I always check the jack stands prior to getting under the vehicle. I shake the front, hard, to make sure there is 0 chance of support failure.
14. Mark location of the anchor arm by either measuring the end threads or marking the location of the anchor arm in reference to the frame. See 16 for detail commentary.
15. Loosen anchor arm bolt to the point where there is 0 load on the T Bar. If you are not sure, it will be extremely clear when your anchor arm adjusting seat unseats i.e. is loose on the bolt. If it gets to this point, tighten until it is just seated yet there will still be 0 load on the spring.
16. You will need to index the location of the anchor arm at this point. There are many ways to do this. The FSM recommends measuring distances, slee recommends using a grease pen. Since this mark is essentially arbitrary and really not in need of being precise, use what you think is best. Either way, you have to be able to mark the position of the anchor arm at 0 preload. I used the grease pin method. I would NOT recommend any other way. When you reinstall a new T bar, you do not want to be measuring at the same time of trying to hold up the bar. It will make more sense later.
17. Remove the anchor arm bolt completely. Remove the seat and the swivel.
18. Remove the two torque arm bolts by using a 24mm socket. One comes out completely and the other is like a stud even though it is just a bolt.
19. You will need to drive the torque arm rearward onto the T bar. In other words, the torque arm will be like a ring on the T bar when complete. DO NOT use a regular hammer to do this. Use a copper hammer OR protect the torque arm with a steel block. The T arm is hard but a hammer will mar the metal. Pay attention to how much of the T bar splines are showing. This will help you later judge how far to seat the splines of the new T bar in the anchor arm.
20. Drive off the anchor arm from the T bar. Be careful so that the T bar does not fall on you. It is not light.
21. Remove T bar. Drive off torque arm from T bar.
22. I would, at this point, spend some time cleaning up/lubricating the anchor arm bolt, anchor arm splines, torque arm splines, torque arm bolts. The more time you take at this point to clean, the easier the reinstall/adjustments will be on the new T bar.
23. When the parts are clean, spread a thin layer of grease on the anchor arm and in the torque arm splines. Not too much on the anchor arm or else you create a sucking/pressure effect when you join the T bar to the anchor arm.
24. The T bars are labeled in reference to a driver’s position in the vehicle i.e. left OME T bar is marked LH and should go on the driver’s side. RH is for the passenger side. So, Left/Right is in relation to a person in the vehicle looking straight out the window. For each T bar, there is no front/back although they are color coded for some reason. Ignore.
25. Pick out the vehicle side of choice. Apply a thin layer of grease to the splines of the corresponding T bar.
26. You will know if you have done a good job of cleaning the torque arm and anchor arm if you can slide them off and on the new T bar with relative ease. If you cannot, I recommend for you to stop and clean some more.
27. Place torque arm onto an end of the T bar. Slide it all the way so that it is loose like a ring, like before on the T bar. Make sure it is on correctly so that the mating surface is correct for the control arm.
28. Install the T bar so that the anchor arm end is in general location necessary i.e. as if it were in the anchor arm.
29. Here is where you will need to “index” the bar. Install the anchor arm onto the T bar. Place the anchor bar in the position either marked or measured. Hold and slide the torque arm over the splines in such a way that the anchor arm bolts will not compromise your mark i.e. you must align the torque arm with the anchor arm so that when you bolt down the anchor arm, the marked/measured position will be on. It is a bit hairy and takes some first, second, third tries due to the fact that the anchor arm adjusting bolt is not on so you must guesstimate the location of the anchor arm without the bolt being there. It will make sense when you are in there. Remember, do not stress about exact line up. BUT you do not want to miss your mark by having the arm above where it should be. In other words, you do not want to loose any distance between the anchor arm and the anchor sleeve. My bolt’s end had a lot of thread showing at the OE setting AND the new T bars have a lot more spring to them so, I was not too worried about not having enough bolt/adjustment room for the ride height if I indexed them lower than the OE mark. The above is what is instructed by OME/FSM. My install was a bit different and the directions above essentially placed me in a position to have to go back and completely reindex the bars because I did not have enough adjustment to gain the 2 inches. So, for my install, I ended up indexing the anchor arms about 2 inches LOWER than the original OE setting. This allowed me to not only get the 2 inches but also have enough room to adjust for aging T bars. Your choice and I am not sure if each 100 will be different. The redo was not that bad so if you go with OME instructions and it does not work out, not to worry.
30. At this point, reference how much of the splines were showing at the torque arm. Adjust (move the T bar into the anchor arm) so that the same amount is showing on the new T bar. This ensures that the correct spline depth has been achieved. You are thanking yourself now for the cleaning time after seeing the T bar slide nice and easy depending upon where you want it to go.
31. Install anchor arm adjusting bolt and tighten to the point where your seat has just tightened i.e. 0 preload but seated. Check your mark to make sure you are still good. Tighten adjuster until you reach your preload mark/measurement taken prior to beginning.
32. Repeat for other side.
33. Install tires. Remove jacks. Lower front end. Raise front end. Lower again. Measure ride height. Depending, adjust anchor arm bolt accordingly so that +2 inches has been achieved. DO NOT DO THIS WITH THE TIRES ON THE GROUND. THEY MUST BE OFF THE GROUND TO ADJUST THE RIDE HEIGHT. I hit right at 13.5" of ride height. Sweet. OME recommends driving but since we are going to do the back, I waited. A final adjustment is made after everything is completed and a test drive has been completed. Reinstall engine cover. Get/do an alignment. Adjust headlights at this point UNLESS you are doing the rear as well. You will do the light adjustment after the rear is finished.
34. Grab a beer, have a smoke. The most complicated is over.
Juke
100 Series OME Lift Instructions/Commentary
I did not take any pics due to the fact that I think between the FSM and these instructions, the install is very straight forward. Not easy, but straight forward. I have divided the lift into parts-front and back because I know that there are some that are only interested in lifting the front to match the rear and/or adding T bars only so that a winch/bumper can be installed.
Front
OME T bar and shock installation
Tools needed:
• Large lift (jack)
• 2 jack stands
• Breaker bar
• Penetrating oil
• ¾, 7/8, 12mm, 22mm. 24mm and 30mm socket, ¾ and 7/8 open end. I chose std. for some because my Craftsman set has a 6 point set on the std. sockets i.e. better grip and less likelihood of stripping.
• Large channel locks
• Help would be great but know it can be completed by yourself-I did this alone with both kids playing in the cabin of the 100.
• Copper hammer or regular hammer with drive block
• For first time, 8 hours of install time. I could do it in 4 hours after this lift experience
1. Pre lubricate all bolts involved in the install. This would mean both bolts for each shock, torque arm bolts, anchor arm bolt, rear stabilizer bolts, lateral control rod bolts. I recommend Toyota’s penetrating oil and lubricant or Kroils’s aerosol. I would recommend doing this at least three days straight prior to install. Depending on the climate, this might not be necessary. My 100 came from Cleveland, had more rust than usual and I did the three day route and was very happy I did.
2. Measure ride height by measuring top of rim to bottom of fender lip. This is with vehicle on the ground, suspension loaded. This measurement, + 2 inches is what you will need to reference when the front end install is complete i.e. you will need to adjust the T bars so that ride height has only increased 2 inches OR, according to OME, that you have at least 3 inches of droop/wheel travel. My ride height was 11.5” from top of wheel (not tire) to the center of the bottom fender lip.
3. Block Rear wheels
4. Lift front end of truck by placing lift in the center of the front diff cross member support. You must have a decent jack that has a high lift capacity or you will not be able to work on the front end. I am not a fan of placing a small lift on a block, but I suppose that can be done as well.
5. If you don’t own a pneumatic, you will need to leave the tires on the ground just a bit so you can take off the wheels by hand. If you own a pneumatic, lift the front end so that the suspension is at full droop i.e. wheels off ground.
6. Remove wheels/tires with 24mm socket.
7. Place a jack stand on left and right side frame rails. This will be a temporary position but is necessary for safety while you remove the chassis/engine cover.
8. Remove chassis cover using a 12mm socket and place to the side.
9. Take the jack stands on the frame rails and move them to the far ends of the cross member right behind the front diff cross member. It is the cross member that will be closest to the torque arm. This cannot be seen until after you remove the chassis/engine cover. I typically leave the lift in place and lower it until the jack stands and the lift are carrying the load. Personal preference at this point in terms of your safety.
10. Regardless of side, take the bottom shock mount bolts off using a 3/4 socket and open end. My shocks were factory and they were tight. Breaker bar necessary. I did not worry about trying to break the bolt loose and hold the bolt head with the open end. I broke it loose with the breaker and then used both to take off the bolt.
11. Remove top bolt. It will be necessary to hold the top of the piston (shock) or else the bolt will just spin. This particular bolt was on very very tight. Mine required some flame/lubricant/flame process to break it. Remove shock. Repeat on other side. As a side note, my N133 shocks had different bolt sizes. One was ¾ on the top and one was 7/8. Both shocks read N133 on the piston very clearly. Not sure what is up with that.
12. If you need brakes, now is the time to change out ( :
13. I always check the jack stands prior to getting under the vehicle. I shake the front, hard, to make sure there is 0 chance of support failure.
14. Mark location of the anchor arm by either measuring the end threads or marking the location of the anchor arm in reference to the frame. See 16 for detail commentary.
15. Loosen anchor arm bolt to the point where there is 0 load on the T Bar. If you are not sure, it will be extremely clear when your anchor arm adjusting seat unseats i.e. is loose on the bolt. If it gets to this point, tighten until it is just seated yet there will still be 0 load on the spring.
16. You will need to index the location of the anchor arm at this point. There are many ways to do this. The FSM recommends measuring distances, slee recommends using a grease pen. Since this mark is essentially arbitrary and really not in need of being precise, use what you think is best. Either way, you have to be able to mark the position of the anchor arm at 0 preload. I used the grease pin method. I would NOT recommend any other way. When you reinstall a new T bar, you do not want to be measuring at the same time of trying to hold up the bar. It will make more sense later.
17. Remove the anchor arm bolt completely. Remove the seat and the swivel.
18. Remove the two torque arm bolts by using a 24mm socket. One comes out completely and the other is like a stud even though it is just a bolt.
19. You will need to drive the torque arm rearward onto the T bar. In other words, the torque arm will be like a ring on the T bar when complete. DO NOT use a regular hammer to do this. Use a copper hammer OR protect the torque arm with a steel block. The T arm is hard but a hammer will mar the metal. Pay attention to how much of the T bar splines are showing. This will help you later judge how far to seat the splines of the new T bar in the anchor arm.
20. Drive off the anchor arm from the T bar. Be careful so that the T bar does not fall on you. It is not light.
21. Remove T bar. Drive off torque arm from T bar.
22. I would, at this point, spend some time cleaning up/lubricating the anchor arm bolt, anchor arm splines, torque arm splines, torque arm bolts. The more time you take at this point to clean, the easier the reinstall/adjustments will be on the new T bar.
23. When the parts are clean, spread a thin layer of grease on the anchor arm and in the torque arm splines. Not too much on the anchor arm or else you create a sucking/pressure effect when you join the T bar to the anchor arm.
24. The T bars are labeled in reference to a driver’s position in the vehicle i.e. left OME T bar is marked LH and should go on the driver’s side. RH is for the passenger side. So, Left/Right is in relation to a person in the vehicle looking straight out the window. For each T bar, there is no front/back although they are color coded for some reason. Ignore.
25. Pick out the vehicle side of choice. Apply a thin layer of grease to the splines of the corresponding T bar.
26. You will know if you have done a good job of cleaning the torque arm and anchor arm if you can slide them off and on the new T bar with relative ease. If you cannot, I recommend for you to stop and clean some more.
27. Place torque arm onto an end of the T bar. Slide it all the way so that it is loose like a ring, like before on the T bar. Make sure it is on correctly so that the mating surface is correct for the control arm.
28. Install the T bar so that the anchor arm end is in general location necessary i.e. as if it were in the anchor arm.
29. Here is where you will need to “index” the bar. Install the anchor arm onto the T bar. Place the anchor bar in the position either marked or measured. Hold and slide the torque arm over the splines in such a way that the anchor arm bolts will not compromise your mark i.e. you must align the torque arm with the anchor arm so that when you bolt down the anchor arm, the marked/measured position will be on. It is a bit hairy and takes some first, second, third tries due to the fact that the anchor arm adjusting bolt is not on so you must guesstimate the location of the anchor arm without the bolt being there. It will make sense when you are in there. Remember, do not stress about exact line up. BUT you do not want to miss your mark by having the arm above where it should be. In other words, you do not want to loose any distance between the anchor arm and the anchor sleeve. My bolt’s end had a lot of thread showing at the OE setting AND the new T bars have a lot more spring to them so, I was not too worried about not having enough bolt/adjustment room for the ride height if I indexed them lower than the OE mark. The above is what is instructed by OME/FSM. My install was a bit different and the directions above essentially placed me in a position to have to go back and completely reindex the bars because I did not have enough adjustment to gain the 2 inches. So, for my install, I ended up indexing the anchor arms about 2 inches LOWER than the original OE setting. This allowed me to not only get the 2 inches but also have enough room to adjust for aging T bars. Your choice and I am not sure if each 100 will be different. The redo was not that bad so if you go with OME instructions and it does not work out, not to worry.
30. At this point, reference how much of the splines were showing at the torque arm. Adjust (move the T bar into the anchor arm) so that the same amount is showing on the new T bar. This ensures that the correct spline depth has been achieved. You are thanking yourself now for the cleaning time after seeing the T bar slide nice and easy depending upon where you want it to go.
31. Install anchor arm adjusting bolt and tighten to the point where your seat has just tightened i.e. 0 preload but seated. Check your mark to make sure you are still good. Tighten adjuster until you reach your preload mark/measurement taken prior to beginning.
32. Repeat for other side.
33. Install tires. Remove jacks. Lower front end. Raise front end. Lower again. Measure ride height. Depending, adjust anchor arm bolt accordingly so that +2 inches has been achieved. DO NOT DO THIS WITH THE TIRES ON THE GROUND. THEY MUST BE OFF THE GROUND TO ADJUST THE RIDE HEIGHT. I hit right at 13.5" of ride height. Sweet. OME recommends driving but since we are going to do the back, I waited. A final adjustment is made after everything is completed and a test drive has been completed. Reinstall engine cover. Get/do an alignment. Adjust headlights at this point UNLESS you are doing the rear as well. You will do the light adjustment after the rear is finished.
34. Grab a beer, have a smoke. The most complicated is over.
Juke
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