4BD1T into FJ60 Fit Issues (1 Viewer)

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The painless fan controller is a good one. I'm too cheap to pay for one and used a ford starter relay and one 30 amp relay to have it turn on with temp sensor activation and with A/C operation. The ford starter relay controls the main power flow to the fan and because the temp sensor is a ground circuit, I used the 30 amp relay to convert the ground circuit to positive power flow to the ford relay. The a/c activation wire is a positive power wire so it just gets wired directly to the ford relay. Hope that makes sense, it does in my mind.:)

Also, if you have a junkyard nearby, you can look for a Volvo fan controller. It is one of the best out there and uses the least amount of amps from what everyone says on here. I have one that I am going to be mounting in my FJ40 here soon and have played with it a little and it looks like it has two speeds as well. It is mounted to the fan shroud near the top and looks like two relays wired together and comes with its own bracket for mounting.


Don
 
Oh yeah, forgot to mention one thing, if you are going to go with electric fans and have a/c and any extra electrical draw, you will want a factory Isuzu alternator. Don't buy the $100-$120 chinese alternators off ebay, they don't last with any kind of electrical draw past about 50 amps even though they are rated at 70. My system with a/c and fan blower on and cooling fan and with headlights on pulls 48 to 53 amps and it burned up two of the chinese alternators in about 6 months. I have had a factory Isuzu alternator for over a year with no issues whatsoever. On my FJ40 I went with Hydroboost brakes and a GM one wire 110 amp alternator so I can run whatever I want in the future.

Don
 
Does the ford contour fan mount to the front or back of the radiator? It seems to me, you can mount it however you want as any air a fan blows, it has to suck as well. Is this correct?

Yes. Time is precious, hence looking at another option versus the fan shroud modification.

Thanks for the heads up on the alternator. I got a cheap Chinese knockoff but I have the original alt as well. Eventually I will be running AC and eventually I might switch to hydroboost since I have a unit now.
 
Oh yeah, the junkyard in town is sadly not pick and pull or equivalent and the prices are so high its unreasonable. The closest pick and pull is about an hour away....so with limited time, the Volvo controller won't happen, thanks for the alternate idea though.
 
Does the ford contour fan mount to the front or back of the radiator? It seems to me, you can mount it however you want as any air a fan blows, it has to suck as well. Is this correct?

Yes. Time is precious, hence looking at another option versus the fan shroud modification.

The contour fans mount to the motor side of the radiator and suck air through towards the motor. They work exceptionally well. I documented my install through my ROTW thread, specifically these 5 posts. I did the contour fan install before the Cummins swap:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7871260&postcount=1426

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7894028&postcount=1450

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7896873&postcount=1460

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7900288&postcount=1466

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7910229&postcount=1470
 
The contour fans mount to the motor side of the radiator and suck air through towards the motor. They work exceptionally well. I documented my install through my ROTW thread, specifically these 5 posts. I did the contour fan install before the Cummins swap:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7871260&postcount=1426

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7894028&postcount=1450

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7896873&postcount=1460

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7900288&postcount=1466

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7910229&postcount=1470

Here is the contour fan through Rockauto:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1303940,parttype,2181

Cheaper than I had thought.

Clint

Wow, thanks for this! It is really appreciated when someone else does all the hard work and research. I will be ordering all of this tonight.

Tonight I worked on the power steering....way easier than I thought, it all fits just right with the FJ62 stuff. I just need to attach the "soft" non-pressure hoses.

I also did some more fitting for my filter bracket. It fits and works, but the windshield fluid squirter bottle must go....its in the way. I wanted to keep it, but its not going to work. oh well. I might be able to melt the plastic and make room for the input to the fuel filter setup.

I also took pictures of the connectors that I was hoping you guys could help me with. In the picture with the three connectors, I am not sure what any of them go to. (If you can, please refer to them as Left, Center, and Right...colorblindness takes over) There is another connector that comes out of the harness near the same point that I know is to the igniter/coil. The last picture shows a connector that I am not sure what it is for. I am thinking it goes to the oil pressure sender. It comes off the harness near the transmission/transfer case connector (the white one in the picture).

I need to setup a picassa account for all of these pictures.

thanks for all the help.

IMAG0245.jpg


IMAG0247.jpg


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I ponied up and bought the painless fan controller.

Did you get the fan controller (~$270) or fan relay with thermostat sensor (~$100)?
Edit: I was thinking last night after I posted this that you probably want the controller so you have the option of turning on the fan yourself when you want.

Edit 2: just found out that painless pulled all of their dual fan controllers due to a major problem and their engineers are working on it.
 
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Any word on the connectors above?

From looking at SOR and a few other places with diagrams, it isnt clear which of the front heater ports is the input and which is the output; I am thinking that it doesnt really matter. What matters is that the input go through the Front Heater Valve and that it come from the water pump on the engine. Is this correct?

Also, happy to report that things are getting crossed off the list! But still lots to do.
Dazed
 
I have mine plumbed with the upper hose coming off the thermostat housing going to the heater valve because this is hot water heated from the engine. And the lower hose being the return line feeding into the water pump and then the pump pushes it out the back of the housing into the engine to cool it.

At least that is how i rationalized it in my head. ;)

I wish I could help with the connectors, but mine had a butchered V8 conversion and a lot of the factory stuff was either gone or not hooked up and so I had to wing it on my own.

Don
 
On my 60, the stock connections to the oil pressure and water temp were tied into the harness on the firewall. The water exited the loom near the center just above the stiffener lip, and the oil was lower near the hard clutch line. Watch how you connect the oip pressure sender. The wire goes to the little button on the center of the sender, not the spade terminal off to the side! If connected wrong, it kills your dash oil pressure gauge! Don't ask how I know this!

The AC connection plug was on the passenger inner fender near the battery and fuseable link. All these I just extended and connected to the stock senders.

On the heater hoses, mine is plumbed the same as Don's. Pressure from the water pump flows to the thermostat housing into the engine and to the heater valve. With the hose from the heater valve to the top heater connection on the firewall. The lower heater hose returns the coolant to the suction side of the pump from the heater.

Keep on plugg'n away!

Doug
 
This turbo bracket is driving me nuts! Shifting it over an inch forward it surprisingly tough for some reason.

Also, can the ports on the AC compressor face down or do they have to face up? I have the sanden that Doug has.
 
OK a few questions...progress was made tonight:
On the Isuzu alternator wiring, which of the two smaller wires is ground and which is the line to the regulator? (post 128 in Doug's stuff doesnt say which is which)

Can someone post a picture of the FJ60 connector/wire to the oil pressure sender? I found the correct wire, but there is no connector on it, looks like I cut it when removing the old engine.

Can someone post a picture of the water temperature sender connector? I cant seem to find it. Where was it connected on the engine?
 
Mitch,

Here is the link to how to wire the alt:

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?20120-Alternator-wiring&highlight=alternator+wiring

The picture below is the water temp sensor wire sitting on my valve cover. It exits the loom near the center of the firewall near the stiffener.

For the oil pressure wire, mine was located on the passenger side firewall, and exited the loom near where the old gas coil and ignition parts were mounted. It ran across the the firewall near the hard clutch line.

I'm not sure what you are asking on the AC compressor? The lines can exit at any direction needed, as they are under pressure. This is the best picture I have of mine.

Doug

IMG_5245.jpg


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Thanks for the link! I forgot to look on 4btswaps. I am going to get a friend to help me with the colors. My 60 is a three wire alternator, not a four.

The picture below is the water temp sensor wire sitting on my valve cover. It exits the loom near the center of the firewall near the stiffener.
I dont have any wires coming out near the center of the firewall; all of mine come out on either side. I will have to keep searching for it. I was hoping to identify it by the connector since those seem to be all different (or mostly) versus wire color.

For the oil pressure wire, mine was located on the passenger side firewall, and exited the loom near where the old gas coil and ignition parts were mounted. It ran across the the firewall near the hard clutch line.
I found this one luckily. How does it connect to the sender though? I cut off the connector (if there was one) when I removed the 2F

I'm not sure what you are asking on the AC compressor? The lines can exit at any direction needed, as they are under pressure. This is the best picture I have of mine.
Maybe it was Don who has the Sanden 709. Anyway, the connections to it come out the outside of the compressor versus the back. I want to make sure I can mount the compressor such that they are facing down versus up. I thought that I could since they are pressurized, but I didnt know if there were any oil issues internally in the pump with it that way.
 
The Isuzu is a 4 wire also, the plug has 3 and the alt has a lug for the output to the battery...Easy! You do have the Isuzu plug?

On the water temp - the connecter is a long plastic rectangle with a slot in the bottom, off white color. If you look carefully in the picture you can see part of it under the tape.

On the oil - the connector goes onto the pin in the center, not the spade on the outer edge.

Can't help with the AC, but call Randy at Coolstream - do a search here for contact info - AC god, LandCruiser owner and a good guy to deal with.

Doug
 
The A/C ports on the Sanden can face down. i have a Sanden 508. You can get 90 deg, 45 deg or straight fittings and point the hoses any direction imaginable.

For fittings see pages 94-95 of the Classic Auto Air catalog

http://www.classicautoair.com/catalogperfectfit.html
 
Mitch, any updates on the install? Got my redesigned block off plate from 69Rambler the other day. Are you running the stock motor mounts on yours? I am trying to find some for mine, the dealer is going to be around $300 for new motor mounts. I have the part that bolts to the block but need the rubber mounts and that piece that bolts to the other side of it. Looking forward to your solutions for the install problems.:popcorn:
 
I am using the stock motor mounts. I had some box/rectangular steel cut at 40 degrees and I welded those to the frame. So far it looks like that works. I bought new motor mounts from Tom's truck center for I think $75 each.

I think I have a solution to the clutch slave cylinder issue and to the turbo issue. Once I know that those work, I will post them.

It is coming along slowly. It was stressing me out and stopped being fun for a bit, so I have been taking it easy and going at whatever pace suits for that day. I will hopefully get the turbo mount made tomorrow (I already had a practice one made, but it needed to raise the turbo another 1/4 inch and I couldnt tighten the bolts on well enough, so I am making a second one). The turbo looks to fit after I politely asked the firewall to move out of the way a bit. I should be able to get the slave cylinder mounted tomorrow too. Friday I went and ordered all of the fittings for the oil hoses for the oil filter relocation. I took a nice hit and sprained my neck (not broken!) playing rugby today, so tomorrow might be very slow day.

Bluehawk, how is your build? If you can, put the clutch slave cylinder on before you put the engine in the truck. Also, be sure to remove the pin from the bellhousing where the tach sensor goes, I forgot to and am not sure it is going to pickup the signal, we shall see.

Mitch
 
I am using the stock motor mounts. I had some box/rectangular steel cut at 40 degrees and I welded those to the frame. So far it looks like that works. I bought new motor mounts from Tom's truck center for I think $75 each.

I think I have a solution to the clutch slave cylinder issue and to the turbo issue. Once I know that those work, I will post them.

It is coming along slowly. It was stressing me out and stopped being fun for a bit, so I have been taking it easy and going at whatever pace suits for that day. I will hopefully get the turbo mount made tomorrow (I already had a practice one made, but it needed to raise the turbo another 1/4 inch and I couldnt tighten the bolts on well enough, so I am making a second one). The turbo looks to fit after I politely asked the firewall to move out of the way a bit. I should be able to get the slave cylinder mounted tomorrow too. Friday I went and ordered all of the fittings for the oil hoses for the oil filter relocation. I took a nice hit and sprained my neck (not broken!) playing rugby today, so tomorrow might be very slow day.

Bluehawk, how is your build? If you can, put the clutch slave cylinder on before you put the engine in the truck. Also, be sure to remove the pin from the bellhousing where the tach sensor goes, I forgot to and am not sure it is going to pickup the signal, we shall see.

Mitch

Like you it is a bit over whelming when I go out to the garage. It is going slow right now, with me building two trucks at one time. I talked to the guy I bought my motor from and he has another motor with the mounts still on it. Gonna get both mounts and the power steering reservoir for $50. Thanks for the heads up on the clutch slave cylinder and the pin on the bell housing. Got a great idea for when I go to put my motor in my refurbished frame. I can give any info but will post a bunch of pictures when I get going on it.
 

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