- Thread starter
- #141
Yeah the antenna is on our Passenger side, your DS. I know right, I'm ignoring it until I've done a few tanks and calibrated it.
Nate's Down Under Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter natharmstrong88
- Start date
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Yeah the antenna is on our Passenger side, your DS. I know right, I'm ignoring it until I've done a few tanks and calibrated it.
- Thread starter
- #142
Thanks for reminding me about Lcool, it's an awesome site for a lot of info! I had been using it when I had my 105, but found when I got my UZJ100 that this site was a little more relevant, but I'm back onto it! I chucked a link up on there to this build thread as a bit of an "I'm Back"
The snorkel kit that I got came with a piece of flexible hose to get rid of that noise reduction box but when I get all my other stuff done, I'll look at getting rid of the cyclonic part and just running the straight through pipe as Greg did in that sticky thread.
Thanks for your input!!
what i was trying to say ...dont ask...was that putting in a K&N filter in our Aussie air intake systems is different to doing the same on the USA version. But the MAF sensor has been clean for a few years......so with regards to that, i think the MAF sensor should be an annual check for the home mechanic...whatever country.
cheers
peter
cheers
peter
- Thread starter
- #144
Yeah thanks, I cleaned it and the throttle body yesterday along with resetting the ECU, it was fairly filthy, given it takes two minutes to clean the air flow sensor I'll probly just do it at every service. Can't hurt.
- Thread starter
- #145
Today's project was trimming a little more off the front guards. This time off the top where the wheels were contacting on the harsher bumps at or near full compression. So I just drew up a template on both guards and then started chopping! 
The cut went without any dramas, folding the guard back in after chopping off the original fold was the time consuming/annoying job. With a little guidance from Nathan at Fatz Fabrication on technique with the hammer and dolly it turned out ok. Both of the guards needed repainting anyway, as the paint was peeling off quite badly from a repair job that had been done by the previous owner. So when I get the chance I'll be taking the car to a panel shop to get that done and they can give the cut some finishing touches while they're there.
I haven't tested whether the tyres hit now, but going off the marks on them I'm pretty sure I've taken enough off the guards so they won't hit anymore. The most I've taken off (Not sure if you can make it out in the pictures) is 28mm, which should be plenty.
Next weekend I'm heading up to 5 Rocks which is a local beach area that takes a bit of 4x4 to get to, with a lot of opportunities to work the suspension to it's limits. So hopefully all goes well, and I will post up anything I find.
The cut went without any dramas, folding the guard back in after chopping off the original fold was the time consuming/annoying job. With a little guidance from Nathan at Fatz Fabrication on technique with the hammer and dolly it turned out ok. Both of the guards needed repainting anyway, as the paint was peeling off quite badly from a repair job that had been done by the previous owner. So when I get the chance I'll be taking the car to a panel shop to get that done and they can give the cut some finishing touches while they're there.
I haven't tested whether the tyres hit now, but going off the marks on them I'm pretty sure I've taken enough off the guards so they won't hit anymore. The most I've taken off (Not sure if you can make it out in the pictures) is 28mm, which should be plenty.
Measuring up a template so as to get both sides the same.
Connect the dots
Semi-finished product, after hammer and dolly.
Connect the dots
Semi-finished product, after hammer and dolly.
Next weekend I'm heading up to 5 Rocks which is a local beach area that takes a bit of 4x4 to get to, with a lot of opportunities to work the suspension to it's limits. So hopefully all goes well, and I will post up anything I find.
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
you sir are a brave for cutting up your 100....
- Thread starter
- #147
Haha, I figured I'd just have a go.
I finally got around to fitting my roof rack/basket this morning too, which has been taking up too much room in the garage. I bought it from Powerful 4x4, same people that make the snorkel. It fitted fairly easily, total install time was about 2 hours including painting it the same colour as the rest of the barwork. I was doing some reading and apparently they used to come with a cast alloy mount but they cracked after a while, they now use steel brackets which are fairly sturdy. All in all I the quality is fairly high, without the price tag of say an ARB one. I went with this design rather than a full basket so I could put larger items up there like my portable gazebo and a longboard if I wanted.
I finally got around to fitting my roof rack/basket this morning too, which has been taking up too much room in the garage. I bought it from Powerful 4x4, same people that make the snorkel. It fitted fairly easily, total install time was about 2 hours including painting it the same colour as the rest of the barwork. I was doing some reading and apparently they used to come with a cast alloy mount but they cracked after a while, they now use steel brackets which are fairly sturdy. All in all I the quality is fairly high, without the price tag of say an ARB one. I went with this design rather than a full basket so I could put larger items up there like my portable gazebo and a longboard if I wanted.
Nathan, how do you rate the powerful snorkel? Will it last? I couldn't find it on their site yesterday. TJM is asking $450 plus $200 install for their snorkel.
I like your fender trimming mod! I've thought about doing the same to mine...just didn't quite have your courage . 
.
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
I like your fender trimming mod! I've thought about doing the same to mine...just didn't quite have your courage
If you cut off portions of your fenders, you will technically have less scratches
- Thread starter
- #151
That is the exact same quote I got from the local TJM here, and I think the Safari snorkel is even more. The quality of the plastic seems to be comparable with the Safari and Airtek snorkels. The giveaway as to why its cheaper is not in the quality of the product, but the quality of the kit. The instructions are just an exploded parts diagram and the studs that you screw into the snorkel body aren't really long enough to easily get the nuts onto on the inside. And there is the whole plastic elbow not fitting up inside the guard properly. I'll be addressing that by putting some sort of padding/protection when I pull the guards off to tidy up the cut. But yeah, at $200 (off ebay) compared to $450 plus fitting, I can tolerate some small inconveniences.
Thanks Spresso, I was a little nervous at first and I kept on making excuses as to why I "couldn't do it today." But after I'd measured up the template I felt a bit more confident and went for it. It's not a hard task at all, so anyone who has a bit of experience with an angle grinder can do this mod, just hack away!
- Thread starter
- #152
I'm back, after a bit of a break from doing anything on my 100 I got around to fitting some lights to the roof racks mainly for camping at night and some extra light for reversing. The lights are just cheapies that came with the roof rack when I bought it. Later on down the track I think I'll upgrade them but at least all the wiring is in place now.
I ran the wiring up through the snorkel which seemed like the easiest way to do it at the time. I haven't checked to see how anyone else had done it on here. I used Deutsch waterproof connectors mainly because we had a surplus of them at work, but they are a good quality little plug that made the job look a bit neater in the end. And picked up some cool ARB style switches off eBay for them. Here are some pics.
I also got my free wheeling AVM hubs fitted last week which is the first part of the part-time 4x4 kit out of the way, just have to find time to change out the parts in the transfer. There will be a write up to follow on that once it's all done :$
I ran the wiring up through the snorkel which seemed like the easiest way to do it at the time. I haven't checked to see how anyone else had done it on here. I used Deutsch waterproof connectors mainly because we had a surplus of them at work, but they are a good quality little plug that made the job look a bit neater in the end. And picked up some cool ARB style switches off eBay for them. Here are some pics.
I also got my free wheeling AVM hubs fitted last week which is the first part of the part-time 4x4 kit out of the way, just have to find time to change out the parts in the transfer. There will be a write up to follow on that once it's all done :$
- Thread starter
- #153
Ok so I got the rest of the part time 4x4 kit fitted last weekend and here is the write up as promised.
The main reasons for doing this mod were A) To reduce wear and tear on the front drive components.
B) Make the vehicle better to drive in town and highway conditions. (No front end lift on acceleration) and
C) Have to ability to do skids/drifties
First of all, a hoist makes the job a LOT easier, but you can do it on the ground without too much trouble. Also the toyota manual for your particular gearbox will be needed. Put the car gearbox and transfer into neutral and start by removing the rear tail shaft And draining the oil from the transfer. Leave it do drain as long as possible, keeping in mind that there will still be some left in the transfer when you come to split it in half.
Refer below to picture 1.
Then disconnect all your sensors and wiring loom clips and remove the rear extension housing. Take note the lengths of the bolts and make sure they go back where they came from.
Refer below to picture 2.
The housing will come off with some encouragement from a soft face hammer, watch out for the shims that support the upper and lower shaft bearings, they will probably want to fall out, and getting them to stay in there when you refit the extension housing is a bit annoying. I used some thick oil to get them to stick.
Refer below to picture 3.
Next, you need to remove the transfer input shaft cover and take out the retaining circlip.
Refer below to picture 4.
Refer below to picture 5.
Once you've removed the circlip, you can take the rest of the bolts out that are bolting to back half of the transfer to the front. When you go to remove this housing, push the transfer input shaft forwards at the same time, otherwise it may come out of the shaft seal on the gearbox side. If that happens, you'll have to replace that seal. Once the halves are split, you'll be looking at this.
Then remove the back half of the differential along with the two spider gears.
I bought a new bearing to go on the replacement half of the diff, but if you didn't you'll need to press the old one off the half of the diff you just took out and onto the new bit. This is the replacement part that was supplied in the "Marks Adapters" part time 4x4 kit that I have. It just bolts straight back in place of the old part. It has a nylon bush that now supports the front drive spider gear in the differential, which they say to grease up upon installation.
Bolt it back in and torque the bolts up according to the Toyota manual. And reassemble the same way you pulled it all apart! Remembering to put thread sealant on all the external bolts, and loctite on all internal bolts.
Once you've finished with the transfer, you jus need to fit the free-wheeling hubs. This is very basic and easy to do, they directly replace the olds hubs without and modification. The new hubs are pretty nice looking. Which is always a bonus!
And the end result is a happy driver who gets to do the occasional skid
Thanks for reading! Hope this info is helpful to anyone!
The main reasons for doing this mod were A) To reduce wear and tear on the front drive components.
B) Make the vehicle better to drive in town and highway conditions. (No front end lift on acceleration) and
C) Have to ability to do skids/drifties
First of all, a hoist makes the job a LOT easier, but you can do it on the ground without too much trouble. Also the toyota manual for your particular gearbox will be needed. Put the car gearbox and transfer into neutral and start by removing the rear tail shaft And draining the oil from the transfer. Leave it do drain as long as possible, keeping in mind that there will still be some left in the transfer when you come to split it in half.
Refer below to picture 1.
Then disconnect all your sensors and wiring loom clips and remove the rear extension housing. Take note the lengths of the bolts and make sure they go back where they came from.
Refer below to picture 2.
The housing will come off with some encouragement from a soft face hammer, watch out for the shims that support the upper and lower shaft bearings, they will probably want to fall out, and getting them to stay in there when you refit the extension housing is a bit annoying. I used some thick oil to get them to stick.
Refer below to picture 3.
Next, you need to remove the transfer input shaft cover and take out the retaining circlip.
Refer below to picture 4.
Refer below to picture 5.
Once you've removed the circlip, you can take the rest of the bolts out that are bolting to back half of the transfer to the front. When you go to remove this housing, push the transfer input shaft forwards at the same time, otherwise it may come out of the shaft seal on the gearbox side. If that happens, you'll have to replace that seal. Once the halves are split, you'll be looking at this.
Then remove the back half of the differential along with the two spider gears.
I bought a new bearing to go on the replacement half of the diff, but if you didn't you'll need to press the old one off the half of the diff you just took out and onto the new bit. This is the replacement part that was supplied in the "Marks Adapters" part time 4x4 kit that I have. It just bolts straight back in place of the old part. It has a nylon bush that now supports the front drive spider gear in the differential, which they say to grease up upon installation.
Bolt it back in and torque the bolts up according to the Toyota manual. And reassemble the same way you pulled it all apart! Remembering to put thread sealant on all the external bolts, and loctite on all internal bolts.
Once you've finished with the transfer, you jus need to fit the free-wheeling hubs. This is very basic and easy to do, they directly replace the olds hubs without and modification. The new hubs are pretty nice looking. Which is always a bonus!
And the end result is a happy driver who gets to do the occasional skid
Thanks for reading! Hope this info is helpful to anyone!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #154
I'm not sure what happened to those first few photos I tried to upload. I was writing it all on my iPhone.?.?.? But here they are in order from the first one that didn't work, to the last. You can refer to them by the numbers above the picture.
1)
2)
3)
1)
2)
3)
- Thread starter
- #155
4)
5)
5)
- Thread starter
- #156
WATCH THIS SPACE! I am working on a write up over the next week or two entitled "THE GREAT SWAP"
Any guesses as to what this might entail???
Any guesses as to what this might entail???
Thanks for writing this thread mate, very interesting. My 80 has avm hubs on the front but not sure if any of the other stuff was done, as I bought the car like this. I'll have to check it out I think.
Thanks again and looking forward to next week to see what you're up to.
Cheers
Thanks again and looking forward to next week to see what you're up to.
Cheers
natharmstrong88 said:
aaaaah you bought a 5.7 L Tundra crate engine??
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
Nah, i'm thinking a SAS swap with the left overs from the last 100.....
- Thread starter
- #160
Haha, nothing as extreme as that mutley! I fear I may have created too much hype. HINT: it's more of a 'change of direction' than a serious mod to the V8...
Hopefully I'll have most of the work done by the end of next week, then the write up will follow.
Hopefully I'll have most of the work done by the end of next week, then the write up will follow.
