American Heart Transplant: FJ60 + Vortec (1 Viewer)

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Dan,

Looking good! I'm hoping to get the engine placement locked down this weekend. I'll be pulling the string tomorrow morning to see how centerline looks. What are your plans for this weekend on it? Have you sent your stuff to LT1 swap .com? later matt
 
dbleon said:
I'm aware of the scab plates... I'm not worried though because the plates are really long and big and distribute the load well. It's better than welding directly onto the thin factory frame like I see a lot of people do...that, is scary!

The crossmember is not going anywhere! My design is overbuilt, and stout.

On the vertical welds, I have been taught that structual vertical welds are best done by welding upward using a "V" pattern. this is what I do... and the welds are more than sufficient. Like I said, its much scarier people who weld directly to the frame :eek:

After examining some of Mr. Toyota's welds on the structual components :eek:, I have determined that I have absolutely nothing to worry about... if you dont beilieve me go look at the factor spring hangers and the factory crossmember mount. whoa, those are sketchy.

But thanks for the heads up.
Click to expand...

I've seen Mr. Toyota's welds, and I've also seen frames on mini-trucks fail right next to Mr. Toyota's welds on the body mount tabs. Hence the concern of vertical welds… and unless you welded your truck with it on your roof, I have no idea how you would have welded vertical up. Enough nit-picking, I just like to consider all the little design technicalities when I build something.
That crossmember looks really stout, how do you think the stock transfer case mount will hold up to the added power?
 
I misunderstood what you were saying, but whatever... any who

I hope the stock mount holds up for a while. It's brand new so we'll see.
 
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Dan,
What they are seeing is your welds that fastened your mounts to the scab plates were welded from top to bottom on the verticle not bottom to top. You can tell because the puddle finishes at the bottom. You'll be fine I'm sure. That's some heavy duty stuff you've put together. Lookin Good! later matt
 
This weekend will be working on little stuff.

Gas pedal mounting

Trans shifter linkage

Clean up wiring

And possibly start working on a battery tray (custom fab of course)

I'm currently working with someone locally to have a gas tank built for my delphi in-tank pump. That's what I'm really waiting on to finish the fuel system.
 
few update and questions

Making slow progress. A newborn baby has changed my focus for a bit. I'm trying to document as best I can for anyone who cares or may take this on themselves.

Shifter linkage: if you want to use the MLP switch on the side of the tranny the linkage has to be spaced out at the top joint ~ 1 inch. I used a threaded coupler, longer bolt with nylock nut and lock washer. It worked out well.

DSCN4458.jpg


DSCN4454.jpg


Gas pedal cut and welded in position. Mounted in stock location. Only had to drill one hole in the factory mount to allow for two bolts. Its very secure.

DSCN4451.jpg


DSCN4452.jpg


Cleaned up/paint PS cooler.

DSCN4450.jpg


I'm using GM fuse box, so had to figure out a mount. J-hooks are the ticket.

DSCN4468.jpg


DSCN4467.jpg


In its location. using factory toyot hole/bolt of course.

DSCN4469.jpg


I'm going to attempt to modify the stock gas tank to fit Delphi pump assembly. I'll make it work. Nice thing is that the tank has a small sump/tray built in, and its baffled (mildly) already so it shouldn't be too bad. Going to clean it a thousand times, and fill with water before putting a few tackwelds in for the vetteworks ring.

DSCN4472.jpg


Pump disassembled

DSCN4465.jpg


Its all back together minus grill

DSCN4470.jpg


:beer:
 
Next items to work on:

Wiring

Fuel pump/tank

Plumbing

Air intake (bought a spectre intake for cheap and its pretty nice) need to shorten the tube.

Exhaust

Driveshafts. Looks like I may have to modify trans pan :(

Its the home stretch for sure!!!!!


QUESTIONS for the experts:

1) I need a dual brake switch for the TCC control... Where can I find this? Part number?

2) Are these type of fuse box water/weather proof? Or do I need to build a cover? The factory GM box is NOT water tight... just a simple lid.

3) Need good part numbers for upper and lower radiator hoses. Using stock radiator in/out locations.

4) Need advice on exhaust and O2 sensor locations.
-Upstream O2's are in the manifolds
-How far can the downstream be? Optimal distance after the CATS?
-How far away from engine can CATS be installed? Do they need to be equal distance on both side?

5) What should I expect to pay for drive shaft lengthen and new u-joints?

6) What is the best way to hook up Toyota brake booster vacuum line?

Anything else I should know before starting this beast??? Like squirt some oil in the cylinders or something like that??

Thanks for everyone's help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:beer::beer::beer::beer:
 
I attached my brake booster to the back of the intake manifold. There was already a hose connected from the donor vehicle, and I just purchased an adapter nipple to adapt from the hose that is on there, to the stock brake booster hose. I see this hose in the 3rd picture of your first post.

If no one beats me to it I can check part numbers when I get home for the upper and lower radiator hoses that I used. I think they are all in a folder.

edit: also, cycle your fuel pump a couple times to build pressure and fill your pump before you try and start it.
 
phishincruisin said:
I attached my brake booster to the back of the intake manifold. There was already a hose connected from the donor vehicle, and I just purchased an adapter nipple to adapt from the hose that is on there, to the stock brake booster hose. I see this hose in the 3rd picture of your first post.

If no one beats me to it I can check part numbers when I get home for the upper and lower radiator hoses that I used. I think they are all in a folder.

edit: also, cycle your fuel pump a couple times to build pressure and fill your pump before you try and start it.
Click to expand...

That would be cool if you could do that.

Thanks!
 
napa part no 8314 is the upper hose, and the lower is 9045 on my swap.
 
Clonestocker said:
Dan,

Does the 60 tank have a sump? I might have a good extra 62 tank. Let me know. matt
Click to expand...

Hey Matt,

As far as I can see there is a small sump/tray in the 60 tank. It happens to be right below where I want to put the GM fuel pump too!

Please hold on to that tank!!! If I mess mine up too bad I will definately take it from you.
 
I moved to a NAPA 8991 for the upper to give my new shroud more clearance. You can check that one out too if you want.
 
Dan,
The brake switch that I used is this one from summit part number RF-80176.
Painless Wiring 80176 - Painless Performance Brake Light Switches - Overview - SummitRacing.com

I did have to dremel the hole to make the switch fit..... nice n tight :D

O2 sensors on mine are about 6"-8" behind the cats...
OEM cats are located right about where the tranny joins the engine... and yes they are equal in length on both sides

On the DS I got my U-Joints from Onur (Beno) a lot cheaper than the local stealership.. and had my DS shop install and balance the DS for about $60.
But if you need t lengthen the DS I would say about $80 to $100.

On the brake booster get a coupling or reducer and loosen the hose clamp and turn it around to the direction needed...as stated there is a vacuum hose coming out of the engine and that makes it pretty easy...


Looking good !!!!

Post mo pics !!!
 
getting all the little tidbits sorted out.

Scored a PCM mount from junkyard - $5 (its from 2002 s10 blazer if anyone cares)

DSCN4482.jpg


I like how it fits snugly

DSCN4483.jpg


Custom fabricated fender mount, uses factory bolt holes like everything else. its super sturdy

DSCN4480.jpg


DSCN4473.jpg


DSCN4487.jpg


For brake booster line... you need this barb reducer - $1.29

DSCN4484.jpg


NOW FOR QUESTIONS!!!!

Trying to sort out vapor canister/fuel tank vent routing.

This is the the mess you see in the passenger rear fender...

DSCN4488.jpg


And underneath vehicle...

DSCN4491.jpg


And on tank...

DSCN4492.jpg


THIS IS WHAT I NEED FOR CHEVY EMISSIONS... SOOO MUCH EASIER!!!!

vortecEVAProuting.jpg



My question is, can I just remove all the toyota juck and cap/solder the lines on the tank? Seem the only hose (from gas tank) needed according to that chevy diagram is the one large hose to filler neck.

Can anyone confirm this?

I'd love to pull that junk out of the rear fender to allow room for the chevy vapor canister...
 
ON the GM vehicle the EVAP stuff is up there under the hood, where it connects to vaccum and the wiring harness under the hood. Do you have all the GM components for teh GM emissions for your engine? Assume you are trying to make all of that work?
 
Elbert said:
ON the GM vehicle the EVAP stuff is up there under the hood, where it connects to vaccum and the wiring harness under the hood. Do you have all the GM components for teh GM emissions for your engine? Assume you are trying to make all of that work?
Click to expand...

Well... not really. The only thing under the hood is the Purge solenoid (on top of intake). The rest is under the vehicle. Yes, I have everything and need to make it work as GM designed.

There's only 3 components really.

Purge solenoid (intake)

EVAP (charcoal) canister (under vehicle)

Vent solenoid (under vehicle near EVAP canister)

I need to decide if it's ok to go ahead and plug all the vents on the tank (except for 1 - the large one that runs to filler neck), and remove the garbage in the rear fender.

SEE PICS>

Number are in correlation to GM diagram

vortecEVAProuting.jpg


DSCN4492-1.jpg


DSCN4488-1.jpg
 
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maybe they moved it on the newer GM trucks.. on the 5.7 vortec equipped vehicles the evap canisster and related parts are under the hood on the pickup, where they tie into the wiring harness, vaccum and fuel tank vent, also there is a fuel tank pressure valve invovled ...all of which I ended up not using.
 
On post #196 pic #4.
Take care of them wires or they will get cut after a few hundred miles... ( im sure you will but just saying).

On your plumbing for the modded tank.. You need to to have the GM canister above the tank highest point level... Your vent solenoid can be near the canister or engine.... I put it on the engine the second time around as it got clogged with dust the first time I put it under the frame.

You can do away with the fuel vapor separator and cap off all the nipples on the plate that is under the frame, except for one (the thickest hose) that continues to be used as a breather for the filler neck...
manuchao-albums-fzj60-tercera-parte-picture17273-capped-all-but-one-nipples-yeah-baby-toyota-fuel-evap-one-breather-main-spout.jpg


On the tank you will need one nipple for the breather, one nipple for the fuel pump... Your pump should have 3 fittings One for fuel, one for canister and one for tank.
I think I got it right......:D
 
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