Battery voltage is irrelevant, all that matters is the voltage drop across the fuse. But yes, the resistance of each fuse would have to be known. Doing the math on some of those figures in the chart, it would suggest the resistances would be in the thousandths of an Ohm. Your Fluke meter would...
There's a timer module associated with the ignition switch light that commonly fails. It doesn't shut off completely, allowing a small current to trickle through the bulb. IIRC, the module is a little green cube that lives in the passenger kick panel, and it can be easily fixed by replacing...
Good idea, but I believe the opto-isolators in those require a constant 12V in addition to the trigger inputs, so maybe not?
Here's something else Amazon suggested. Might even be potted...
OK, so here's the basic concept for an automatic CDS fan that will only start if the ign key is on.
It will continue to run after the key is turned off, until the pressure switch opens.
Thanks to some extra relay logic though, the fan will not automatically re-start when the key is off
This...
No problem, just gotta dig through my project files and convert the CAD drawings into something postable.
In the meantime, others will probably offer their expertise on the A/C system.
I came up with a plan to do all of this using an ON-OFF-AUTO switch. I can dig up all the diagrams later tonight if interested.
I never put the plan into action though, since upgrading my fan clutch took care of my overheating issue.
The diagram you referenced is misleading.
The diff-lock ECU does NOT control the CDL. The CDL actuator is controlled by the CDL RELAY. In stock form the relay is located in the driver footwell and you should hear it click whenever the dash mounted CDL switch is pressed in/out. If you're not...
If you haven't done it already, the factory amplifier needs to be unplugged.
You can find it mounted behind the passenger dash speaker. Remove the glove box for access.
Have you tried measuring for a voltage drop from the battery post to the cable terminal?
Like this.
Don't attempt to start it, just turn on the headlights, with high beams, and measure with the two probes as shown in the picture. Now, my meter is set to millivolts, so that's 1.3mV of drop...
Here's another low mileage specimen for comparison.
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/dublin-1997-lexus-lx450-aka-toyota-land/7687435035.html
This one is actually local to me.
I'm not sure about the surface-mount bulbs, but I do still have a lot of spares on hand. Can you remove a good one from the circuit and measure its current draw (at 14V)? Also measure the physical dimensions, I'll see if I have some that match.
Sorry, I can't help you with LED's.