I'd suggest hooking "new hoppy hookup" to "new hoppy hookup", doing the male to female thing, and leaving the hoppy completely disconnected. That is how your wiring was before someone added a hoppy. Just move that harness a little closer and plug the brighter white connectors together. It may...
Dammit, I should have copyrighted that image. Oh well, I'm glad it serves as a reference... ;)
Was that for a mechanical fuel pump maybe?
Anyone notice the saran wrap under the valve cover?
:cool:
@pmccumber had this on his 1995. He found it by taping the seams on the outside with masking tape, a couple at a time, until the noise went away. He followed the line and spanned across any gaps. I can't remember which seal was bad, but he found it quickly.
@Midgainc since you're in the south, you might want to just delete all those smaller throttle body heater lines entirely.
I did a search and found this helpful link: Rear Heater Delete/Coolant Line Cleanup - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-heater-delete-coolant-line-cleanup.1088550/
Good...
The hose is likely the one that goes to the throttle body. The exit (entrance?) to the throttle body goes down to near the water pump.
You have to almost remove the throttle body to get to the hose clamps. If you're pulling the intake, go for it.
Edit to add a question:
Is this cooling loop...
@Malleus If you're trying to perform the no load performance test you attached with an 18 gauge test lead wire, that's why it isn't working. The last test says to look for 90 to 100 Amps. For that, you'd need jumper cables. 18 Ga can carry maybe 10 amps.
This (from you):
"another thought...
I'd flush it backwards into a bucket. If you find a bunch of crud, that is probably your problem.
First though, check your heater valve and make sure it's WFO. Heck, disconnect it and tie it wide open. Especially if it's that cold!
Fingers and toes blue? No thank you sir!
:popcorn: :beer:
So, for those of us reading along, @cruisin97 , could you tell us what it looked like before you replaced it? You had asked earlier, and now you're a recent expert on the subject. Anything obvious?
Thanks!
You want a crank holder that faces up to metal on the front of your crankshaft pulley. The rubber and harmonic balancer ring were proud of the surface on mine, so I made my tool so it fit inside. Tightening the bolts clamps the metal faces together.
I welded a bar to mine. Cheap, and no...
When mine fell out, I was able to put my finger where the cap was and hold that shaft somewhat centered. It worked, but my fingertip was sore for a day or two. You're trying to keep the shaft from walking out, and keep it centered in the hole. On the passenger side, it was "front, left" under...
What type of fluid are you running?
Is it foaming? If you remove the cap, you might see this.
The fact that it's whining makes me wonder if it's foaming.
Is the seal under your cap soft? Mine was hard as a rock. It seeped until I replaced it.
On my year, there's an o-ring around the underside...
How are your vacuum lines to the brake booster? I think there's a check in valve there too.
Poor vacuum will let the pedal droop a little, at least it did in my 75 Cheyenne Pickup...
Good piece of troubleshooting, by the way. 2 hours, solved. Maybe. :banana: