I agree with Spike555. the engine immobilizer is connected to the EFI circuit. The circuit becomes weak over time as apparent by the multiple posts associated with engine cranks but will not start or engine immobilizer issues. It looks like to me that someone found a different fix for the weak...
I commute about 11 miles to work on the central Oregon coast and I might see one a month, maybe a little more on a holiday weekend. This area is overrun by HD trucks
I don't think it would start at all if the key wasn't programmed correctly and the flashing light would continue to blink it would cank and not start. But there maybe something I don't know about.
Sorry haven't been around. I used a peice 14 gauge solid core wire about 3/4 of a inch long, removed about 3/16 of the shielding off each end then bent it into a u shape hammered the ends flat and use it like a fuse.
You are the one I learned about the jumper from. There are a few threads dealing with this issue, quite a few owners struggling with this problem. This seems like a much more cost affective way of dealing with the problem than replacing the fuse box.