3000rpm should be no problem for hours on end. My Hilux does 3700rpm for as long as I'm on the highway, with quite a bit of that time at WOT (4 speed gearbox). 197,000km and nothing blown up yet.
Same deal with my uncle's 2H powered HJ47 with 4 speed. It does 3400rpm all day with no issues...
Interesting, thanks for the link. I will try to get a price on this compared to Delvac MX 15w40 mineral oil.
Personally I would still change the oil after 5000km with any oil.
Aftermarket turbo kits for these engines are common. You have to be more careful watching EGTs and coolant temps of course. The 2L heads seem to be stronger than the 2LII and 3L heads, but I have no evidence to back this up.
I prefer to keep mine NA though.
This is what I'm thinking. My Hilux behaved the same way when the fuel lines were almost completely blocked from lack of use over a winter a few years ago.
I do this, but I find it works better if the engine is not always idling, but running up to say 2000 rpm occasionally. Also squeeze the radiator hoses a few times (careful not to get near the rotating fan, belts, or anything hot). It also works better if you park on a slope with the radiator cap...
Most people have no problems with them. Some people on here do, but 99% of them hold together for 300,000km+
They did power LJ73s from the factory, etc.
I don't know what an FJ40 weighs, but my Hilux is 1600kg with the same engine and it goes well.
It'll do it just fine. I've towed more than that with a 2.4 litre 2L NA Hilux. It might not be fast, but you don't want to go faster than the speed limit when towing anyway.
If it's taking until 3000 rpm to get full boost on an engine which only revs to 4000 or so, and it's the stock turbo, then I think you either have a blockage somewhere, or the compressor or turbine is not working as it should.
It's quite common in Australia to swap in the GM 3.8 V6, as they were sold in Holden Commodores here.
Try these links:
Hilux Commodore V6
ENGINE CONVERSION OPTIONS FOR
I have to ask. Why upgrade the turbo when it involves modifying the engine mount in order to keep the stock exhaust manifold, which flows very poorly?
A custom exhaust manifold which places the turbo in a better position would have been a MUCH better solution, you would have gained quite a bit...
Not sure if anyone has already mentioned this, but on other turbocharged engines I have experience with, the wastegates start to leak boost past them when any boost pressure is achieved.
By using a manual boost controller, the wastegate does not see any boost pressure until the manual boost...