Yes, hookers are real pros when it comes to fluid exchange.
Another point about brakes is that the dead volume in the brake system increases as the brake pads and shoes wear out. This makes it easier for bubbles to hide in the system and harder to sweep them out. All of the shop work...
I did hundreds of brake jobs back when I was turning wrenches for a living and they were still making FJ40s. We never had a problem bleeding brakes except when the master cylinder was bad and then we replaced it and never bench bled it and never had problems bleeding. The shop I worked used the...
Yes, it will bolt up, but it is about 3/4 inch longer than the PS steering shaft, so the wheel will be a little closer to you. You can shorten the manual shaft if you want it to be the stock length.
If the fuel level rises, then the inlet needle valve may be leaking.
It is possible that the engine is flooded when you try to restart the engine. Carbs are notorious for having problems with "reformulated" gasoline causing them to leak fuel into the intake manifold and flooding the engine.
To...
If you are doing the test properly with constant power to the +side and switching on and off the connection to the - side of the coil and you can’t get a spark to jump a 6mm gap to ground, then the coils may be bad. I think the chances of them being bad are extremely unlikely.
You seem to keep on doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result. You need to check components one step a time.
1. Remove all wires at the coil except the center spark wire. Place this about 6mm from the engine block.
2. Run a new wire from battery + to coil +
3...
What switch? You can’t tell what it does because it is not a schematic diagram. If it is wired Ike it was in the car except for the igniter, then you should get a spark. You need an ignition condenser, not the one that was attached to the ignitior.
As you found, this doesn’t work. What does work is connecting the coil + to the battery+ and then momentarily touching a wire from the battery - to the coil minus. If you keep this wire connected, nothing happens. Every time you touch the ground wire to the coil - and remove it you get a...
A ‘77 is supposed to have a “semi transistorized” igniter. It can run on just the points alone if you have the distributor wired directly to the - side of the coil as Mark mentioned.
First test the coil for a spark: Connect the coil + to the battery +. Them momentarily ground the - side of...
I didn’t take a picture, but to paint an image of what is going on with the front facing brass vacuum tube in the top cover, it is drilled straight through so if you put a piece of wire in the tube, it will go straight in and come out inside the secondary air horn or bore. It also takes a 90...
A carb leaking gas out of the throttle plate shaft bushings is often a sign of an engine with an intake manifold leak. Because of the air leak, the engine can’t get enough fuel to idle, so to compensate, the idle speed is increased so that the engine can barely run off of the main nozzle. This...
If you have a high voltage spark at the coil, but not at the distributor, then the coil wire to the distributor center is bad. If there is no spark at the spark plugs, then the rotor / distributor cap or spark plug wire are bad.
I just went out and looked at a ‘78 top cover and indeed, it is a separate bowl vent in addition to the large tube that runs to the charcoal canister. In addition, this little port at the front of the top goes straight in to the air horn for the secondary. Seems strange. I wonder where the...
That particular carb is a CA ‘76 that was originally sold at Stancil’s Toyota in Placerville, which is notable as the first Toyota dealer in the Western US.
I had two carbs: One that ran and one that I used only to pass my smog check every two years.
There is a very similar one on '78 carbs; it is just facing to the front and not to the side. Both contain the hot idle compensator thermo switch and connection tubes for some of the VSVs.
I had to lay about 300 ft of MDF base this summer before I got the rack and draped the 16 ft sticks over the top of the cab which was covered with a furniture pad. That stuff is pretty floppy. Fortunately I only had to drive 2 miles.
Mercy. Those are some heavy loads. Long too. It might be more than the carrying capacity of the rack. I can’t imagine that the aluminum rack would handle even 400 pounds in a panic stop. It would fold up like a cheap suit.
Even if I once knew, I have forgotten because I don’t know. It is a larger inside diameter than the other lines that are for vacuum control, so I suspect that it maybe for some kind of vent line. It is not the bowl vent so maybe it provides filtered air from the air cleaner to the VSV or hot...
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