I’m going to be flushing the coolant but the SLLC from Toyota is very expensive. Has anyone found a compatible alternative?
I know that with the various metals and seals that the coolant comes in contact with that you don’t want to just grab any old jug of Prestone and go for it.
Thanks!
This confuses me: both part numbers are stamped on there. Do both part numbers go to the same physical part?
Also, it seems that -60091 is the "cold spec" part, according to the online parts sites. I suspect that we are "cold spec", due to our wiper/mirror/PCT heaters, but this is very confusing.
So according to this, -60101 is the "without cold spec" part, the more expensive of the two.
So our 200s are NOT cold spec? Despite having the mirror/wiper/PCT heaters?
That ours are cold spec would seem to make sense given the wiper/mirror/PTC heaters. Strange that I can't find anything on the internet to clarify this, especially since both the with and without cold spec options are given for my VIN. You would think the VIN could differentiate the different...
Yes, I saw this picture of someone else's cowl and it had FOUR different part numbers on it, both for with and without "cold spec". This only confused me more.
When I enter my VIN into all the online parts web pages I've tried, it gives me BOTH as options, the -600091 and -60101 (with and...
My 2008 has the footwell leak. My weather-strip fix only worked for a while and I'm finally ready to give in and get the replacement cowl.
There are numerous different part numbers quoted in the various posts. Part # 55708-60091 is much cheaper than 55708-60101. I've seen conflicting...
Maybe a dumb question, but what is wrong with just cleaning out the valve, rather than replacing it?
Simple part, doesn’t seem anything should wear out.
I know Covercraft has these "custom" for a 200. I'll be calling them to see if they think it will fit mine despite my TJM, but I'd appreciate some Mud input from owners who cover their 200, especially if you have a bull bar.
Only have space in the garage for one car, so my daily driver (RX350)...
Once our roof rack is removed, what do you need to do to keep things water tight is you don't put anything back on?
I replaced my factory rack with a FrontRunner years ago and didn't save any of the factory hardware. I remember putting silicone in some places before putting the FrontRunner on...
I freaked out a bit when I first found the oil in mine. Now 50,000 miles and six years later, no change...still leaks, mileage still horrible and the power still makes me smile.
Oil versus air gap...I agree that the temps aren't likely to be any different since steady state for both will be...
I keep hearing it both ways and can't get an official answer until I show up. The catch-22 is that by the time I can actually show up for the inspection, it will be too late to sell it in the states if it fails (quarantine and COVID have REALLY made this move difficult).
I need to pull the trigger, importing my LC to Canada is a no go. Since I've already shared my tale of woe in another thread, I won't repeat it here. I know I will probably never be able to have another V8 Land Cruiser, but this move is too good of an opportunity to stay stuck on this.
She is...
I've wondered that myself. May be due to a slight flex in the bushings when power is applied through the front drive line, reducing the clearance that was there before power was applied. Could probably confirm this by doing the maneuver and then, without changing anything else, put it in...
Fab’d up a mount for fridge tie down. As a bonus, it has room to tie down a water jerry can next to it (don’t worry, not going to store gas, just don’t have the water can yet for fitting).