Its already lubed and fairly polished, but when the steering wheel is turned enough theres not much lube or polishing that could get the bolt to be removed easily. Think of it like the deadbolt on your front door. If you are trying to open the door while trying to turn the key, it won't unlock...
Add me to the list. I went to leave the house Saturday night, turned the key and felt a snap. I have a 2001.
I guess I was lucky in that it happened at my house, but wow, what a bad design. The little cam rod that is inside the steering column lock assembly can render the car completely...
Technically, its what actually engages / drives the worm gear so it is a critical piece. So if someone would try to replicate it, it would need to be firmly secured to the shaft with all the initial torque on this motor.
I had 2000 540i. I now have a 2001 LX470. I use it to transport dogs, bikes, camping / climbing gear, building supplies (unbolt and remove all rear seats and you can put a hurtin' on the Home Depot), as well as long road trips with the wife. It will appeal to your "luxury car" side as well as...
This may be a great option. When I removed my old motor I took it apart and the graphite brushes were almost completely gone. Sounds like its a worth a shot.
There are two pulleys on the crank. One for the serpentine and one for the timing belt. The pulley for the serpentine belt has to come off in order to get to the timing belt. Thats the pulley that is a bear to get off due to the nut being high torque.
So....yes a giant wrench is needed...
The front oil seals are flexible fiber-type seals (similar to stiff leather) that simply press over the cam/crank shafts beind the pulleys. These three oil seals are easily accessible when doing the TB job and easy to replace.
I have not removed the oil pump so can't answer that question.
I believe he's refering to the crankshaft oil seal and the camshaft oil seals. Its a very easy job to replace them. Getting them out is the worst part. I cut in to them VERY carefully with a razor blade and pulled them out with a pick (dental pick-type tool).
I assume you are talking about the door handle on the outside of the door. If so, you have to take the inside panel off the door to get to the bolts / nuts that hold it on and tighten them up.
While they are nice, I have trouble paying $139 for bags to store some seats in my garage.
I prefer my white trash storage method:
Demobags Ultimate Pro Pack 42 Gallons - Heavy Duty Tear Resistant Professional Contractor Trash Bags
~$35 for 20 of them. :beer:
I'm not 100% sure I understand what you are saying. But don't torque multipliers get their advantage via planetary gearing through the same axis as the square drive? In other words, the distance between the force and the square drive does not change.
You can't get a socket on there (at least I couldn't). You need to get a box wrench type adapter for the torque wrench and adjust the torque settings accordingly.
See page 5 for a good example:
http://buy1.snapon.com/PRODUCTS/TORQUE/pdf/techangle/TECHANGLE%20INTERNET%20SITE.pdf
It doesn't sound like the master switch is bad. It sounds like it could be a loose or bad connection to one of the junction blocks that connect the master switch to the other three window controls. In my '01, the junction blocks are in the driver's side kick panel.
I'd try to get a '98 wiring...