I believe the newwer ones ( mine was off a 95 Yukon ) are metric threads , where the hi pressure hose threads onto the pressure valve on back of pump. I re used the one off my 69 model so I didn't need to change out the hp hose to my Scout p/s box. Seems like West Texas Offroad had an artical...
Another option for return line I see used, is the fuel filter used on early 2000's Corvettes. AC/Delco #gf822. Fuel returns to filter from throttle body, has regulator built in. Hope this helps, Al
On one of the truck forums i frequent, i see alot of the guys using converters from a v6 application. They say it gives them approx 1800 stall with there small blocks. Hth, Al
When i did mine, i grabbed the booster along with a metal plate that spaced it out from the firewall. Didn't have to do any cutting anywhere. Was there a plate on the truck you nabbed the booster from?
Do u have access to a laptop, that u could download tuner pro from moates, and check blm's ( fuel ratio ) while driving? Has perimiters to uncheck fault codes ( auto trans vs manual, etc ), that might give u a better idea whats going on. Can download free, to try. That, along with some chips and...
On mine, it also helped to take a grinder and " cup " the inside of. yokes, and put a slight bevel on outside edge. Got that tip off here. Mines SUA 4"
I remember reading on another forum, dealing w/TBI swaps, where they were using a fuel filter from an '05 Corvette, as it had provision for fuel return attachment. Might check out something simular for your app.
You running a aftermarket aluminum intake? Some ( Edelbrock's ) recomend the Felpro print-o-seal ones, to get a good seal. Same w/aluminum heads on a cast iron block, not just any head gasket will seal right, due to different expansion rates of the different metals. All this is in reguards of...
The fuel pump push rod works off a lobe one the camshaft. Just turn the motor over so that the rod is off the lobe ( will be positioned higher up into block ), this way you dont have to fight the pump arm/push rod pressure as much, to get your bolts started. HTH, Al
Looking at this from when you first got it, why do I think of the Campbells, from American Hoggers? Think the old man might have had a hand in customizing this? Good job, enjoy
Same combo I have, except 35's w/3.70's. At 60 mph I only turn 22-2300, purrs at 25-2800, but then your motorvating down the road pretty good. Have got 15+ mpg running around 23-2400 to work and back, 2 lane with hills, light traffic. Basically a 3 spd on the floor w/ granny low when you need...
People shouldn't follow so close they can't see your lights anyways. I guess for the really stupid, you could rig up a third brake light/license plate light some how. I like the brake lights they used to put on old trucks that were large, and had stop molded into the lense. You had to be blind...
Home style
You can pull your radiator, and slosh some muratic acid ( kind used for pools ) thru it, then a baking soda/water rinse to kill the acid. If you do this over a tub, you'll catch the liquid, and see how much crud you had. Cheap home remady you could try. Some CLR might work to, works...
Is this what your looking for? My truck must have been modded back in the old days, as it has alot of Con-Ferr goodies on it . HTH, Al ps- there's some more pic's of some of the goodies in my ROTW back when I first got it
That should be a 1 piece rear main seal block, so you'll need a newer style flywheel ( smaller opening where it bolts to crank ). MINE WAS OLD SCHOOL STYLE ADAPTER, chevy bh w/plate drilled to mate to tranny. This allowed you to use one of 3 different starters, 2 different ones that bolted to...
I have a chance to buy one out of a 1.5/2 ton truck that has a PTO on it. I know some Guys use this style of winch, is this something I should nab along with the tranny? Basically paying scrape price for tranny, just wanting spare parts for mine. It looks to be mid 60's body style ( 63-66 )...