Hi, I haven't been on this forum for quite a while, so sorry for the delay. Here's a link to the place where I bought my shift controller. If I recall, you'll need the Aisin-Warner manual to figure out which wires to connect. Unless the controller comes with instructions, i can't remember...
Wouldn't the original spindles have needle bearings as well? Both mine had needles, but who knows, maybe both were replaced at one time. The new bushing I got from Toyota is solid brass, so I can see how that comes as a replacement part. Nonetheless, it helps explain the difference. thanks.
got the job done! Thanks to all those who gave advice :cheers: Everything went fairly well, although I did have a couple problems which I had to deal with:
On one spindle the internal bushing that rides up against the short shaft of the birfield had needles missing... not sure how that...
I removed the CDL switch from the front-top of the transfer case and tested it for continuity and it seems to work. Switch is open when ball is out, and switch closes when ball is pushed in. So it seems all this switch does is turn the CDl dash light on and off. Still not sure why my motor...
Nope. The actuator motor harness connector goes up and over the tailstock of the transfer case, and is accessible by reaching up awkwardly with some body contortions and choice words. :) It's held in place with a clip which is a PITA to remove, but necessary in order to pull the harness apart...
yeah, that's what I was thinking. I shoved the lever back and forth so many times I felt guilty for being so rammy! And where is the L/H switch? there's a Lo switch and also a Neutral switch on the back end of the transfer case. I assume those send the signal for when it's in Lo and when the...
that's what I thought too, but Guambomb's seems to suggest that the switch will control motor operation. I did disconnect that switch which put out the dash light, but it didn't unlock the diff. Maybe it's a difference in model year? To confirm, mine is a 93 with the H/L lever and no difflock...
So I'm planning ahead for the long and messy job of a front end service on my 93 with ABS, and since this is my first time, I'm reading up on all the tips and tricks. I've got a steering knuckle rebuild kit on order and I'm stocking up on gloves and wipes! I've searched and I know it's out...
here's the method I used to get the actuator motor to unlock the diff.
1. disconnect the connector to the actuator, it's a six pin connector with one blank pin (pin 3). I'll use this basic schematic to indicate which pins and location I refer to:
1-2-3
4-5-6
2. using jumper wires, apply...
Toyota designed it as a hitch mount and you can buy a ball hitch or pintle hitch that bolts on, so that would suggest it's strong enough for towing, but maybe not for recovery. I agree that frame-mounted recovery points are best.
yes, put the switch on so the centre diff light comes on, which means your diff should be locked. then jack up one front wheel to see if it rotates. doesn't matter whether the truck is on or off at that point. if the wheel won't rotate, the diff is locked. then turn the key to on and switch...
ok, I see which switch you mean. I thought that was just a sensor to turn the dash diff light on, since the light went out when I pulled the plug, but the motor didn't unlock. But if it also acts as a signal switch as part of the lock/unlock circuit for the actuator motor, then that could be...
sure, I can do that. I made a diagram of the pins I probed, but I left it at work. I'll post it soon. thanks for the link to the fsm, I'll read up and see how much is compatible with a '93.
you mention a switch, implying there is one, but my investigation reveals 2 switches on the rear of the transfer case, a "neutral" switch and a "low range" switch. maybe my 93 is different? in any case, I had already tried to get the motor to disengage by shorting the connector to the neutral...
the problem with probing the wires is that I have to be under the rig with jumper leads to the battery to get 12v to the plug. Not particularly ideal when you find yourself in a driving situation where you suddenly need to lock the diff! but thanks for the fsm search idea, I'll check it out.
I think he said in an earlier post he had the injectors serviced. The smoke could be caused by low compression in one or more cylinders, which a compression test would confirm.
It sounds like you're looking for the simple, quick improvement, so here's what I suggest:
IME a magnetic...
a couple weeks ago on my 93 HDJ80, I used low range and the centre diff locked and the dash light came on as expected. After tooling around in the snow for a little bit, I put it back in high range, but the diff light did not go out and the centre diff was definitely still locked, indicated by...