I went to a mechanic friend and had him get one from the SnapOn truck. I think it was $15. He said they might be a little hard to find because they were mostly used for changing jets and everything has gone FI!
Probably not using the right nomenclature, but the flat blade is split and one slides over the other to wedge the blade in the screw slot.
http://www.newmantools.com/kedman.htm
Mine is a Blue point, but it is similar.
I have just loosened with a regular flat blade screwdriver then used a split point to further loosen and remove/replace the jets I actually have two. One is a Blue Point and the other is a spring loaded tool. Never saw a Toyota SST, though.
I don't think it matters. The one closest to the firewall is the heater fitting on mine then the factory temp sender, then my mechanical sender. I have no emissions stuff on my engine.
Actually, that is the F and a half I pulled out and replaced with the 2F. It lives at IDave's or the scrap yard closest to him! I took that pic to show the positions/locations of the cam plug and the main oil galley plug.
I used a gear wrench where i did not have room for a socket. You can also reach through the glove box, IIRC and the kick vents. You are correct, it is a pita. Midget hands help, too.
I think a warm air intake is very necessary for someone in Washington State. 33* + high humidity can = carburetor icing, but that is not the case in your situation as it does not happen at idle.
No, you don't need to bypass the starter wiring. It gives a momentary 12V to the coil during "start" only, then in "run" it routs 12V to the ballast resistor which cuts the coil voltage down to 6-9V. Surely you do not have a ballast resistor in the circuit anymore. I don't think electronic...